Iroko / hardwood grating!

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I am working on making a vertical teak / harwood slatted grating to slot across the back of our cockpit beneath the tiller where we currently store a bucket and some fenders. My local timber merchant (Goodwillie's) can supply cut iroko in 700*40*15 mm slats for about £4 each for 10, they can't do teak. I'm not overly precious about what wood is used but I would appreciate any advice on whether iroko wood would be suitable and if there are any better alternatives. I hope this grating will not require significant amounts of maintenance.
 
OK if varnished, etc. Not OK if left bare

It's not that iroko rots easily - it does not.

But, if left bare, it develops very small surface checks, which fill with dirt. So whereas bare teak, kept scrubbed, goes silvery grey, bare iroko goes an unlovely shade of black.
 
Teak is probably the best but iroko is the commonly used substitute and IMHO will be quite adequate for what you want. Look out for old laboratory bench tops especially if they have been regularly wax polished.
 
I am constructing a cockpit grating in teak and there is little doubt that this is the better material but you will not be able to buy new teak. I am using secondhand material.
My rubbing strake is in iroko and has not suffered any discolouration in 8 years; but it is not so easy to work as teak and, has been pointed out, is toxic.
 
Teak is also toxic, thats how it resists rot, the spores for rot, cant live in it.
Working with teak for long periods, sensitises you to the stuff, I come out in a rash now, having sanded the stuff for years. No dangerous, but bloody itchy!
 
Iroko is very durable but I agree with Fisherman`s warning about the dust. I have machined it and reacted badly to the dust; eyes streaming, maddening itch [especially around "ye privy parts"], mouth sores etc. A boatbuilder told me that he had developed asthma from using it and now refused to work with it. It`s not so bad if you plane it and produce shavings but dust is the problem. I don`t think everybody reacts badly to it because it is widely used but it might be worth your while getting a small sample and seeing if it causes you problems.
Another characteristic it has is warping after it has been cut, presumably due to the release of locked in stresses.
I also found it difficult to get an even coating of epoxy on it despite wiping it with acetone beforehand.
If you do a Google search on Iroko you will probably find more details of its characteristics.
 
I have just had some windows made in Iroko (for house, not boat). The manufacturers recommend Sikkens Filter 7 as treatment - it's a breathing varnish with stain.
 
Re: Iroko / hardwood grating!

I used to use a wood called Keruin or summat like that when installing double glazing donkey's years ago. V similar to teak but available & a lot cheaper. It's a few years ago now, but I still have a few offcuts that I have used as car blocks and general podgers & they have defied damage, rot, engine oil & general crap for the last 20+ years. If you can lay hands on any I would say give it a go.
 
Re: Iroko / hardwood grating!

If you want a durable dark wood then the above replies are correct. Iroko as has been said gives off a peppery dust (my boss used to leave the workshop for a couple of days when we were machining iroko). I don't know about its availability myself, or another alternative which is afrormosia which has been used instead of teak for ships decking.

If you aren't concerned about the colour then you might consider oak - but don't use steel fixings which stain it badly.
 
Hi. I have used teak and douglas fir to make gratings on-different-boats.I have also used much Iroko and for your job this would be to my mind an inferior choice for all the reasons listed above.....
Have you tried Robbins at Bristol for a teak quote?http://www.robbins.co.uk/
 
IKEA sell a sort of coffee table, which is a box made from hardwood grating measuring 980 x500 x500 mm, the wood is walnut and the price is 39 pounds, may be useful if the timber is ok for outside use.

Peter
 
I use a lot of Iroko and do not have any problem either working it or with weathering. Mind you the workshop is well fitted out with dust extraction / air filtration on all the machines.

If you have access to a good resawing band saw and a thicknesser/planer the cheapest route to go down is to buy either full logs or 2" offsaw planks and convert them yourself into the sections you need. A 6"x2"x12' plank off saw should work out around £30 ex saw mill. This is more than enough to make a 6'x2' grating.

The grain can be a little wavy at times but careful cutting and planing overcomes that. Do make sure the planer knives are sharp - like razors.

Teak works out about 5 times the price of Iroko for logs or offsaw so by the time it is converted you can look at around 2~3 times the price as conversion costs are similar. My last two boats have had Iroko gratings which have stood up better thasn some teak ones I know off. In fact I have changed teak gratings and decking for Iroko on a number of other boats over the years and to date have not had any negative feed back. If buying planks do make sure they were ¼ sawn and not planked.
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
 
[ QUOTE ]
Cliff,
Do you use the Iroko untreated, like you would Teak? Thanks, Tony S

[/ QUOTE ]Depends on what the end user wants. Personally for my own use I either leave bare/untreated or treat with Rustin's teak oil (not the imitation stuff sold by messers Screwfix & Co.). If a varnish finish is required then either B&Q exterior varnish (4 seasons on frame of cockpit grating and 3 seasons on washboards and still O.K.) or International Yacht varnish. Really, you can use any other solvent based varnish you fancy - I do not use water based treatments due to past problems and serious amounts of rework incurred.

The grating mentioned above had the actual grating bits left bare with only the frame varnished. Looks well with a silvery gray grate and a golden coloured frame.
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hammer.thumb.gif
"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
 
Cheers. You have Iroko washboards? Or was that given as an example of the varnish suitability. I rather like the idea of frame-and-panel boards rather than plywood, but that's right down my priority list at the moment.

Meanwhile I have some reclaimed Iroko to hand suitable for some small-scale exterior wooden fittings etc.

Tony S
 
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