IPS. A small problem.

oldgit

Well-known member
Joined
6 Nov 2001
Messages
28,265
Location
Medway
Visit site
Water in gearbox.
Personally suspect propshaft seals but leg ? heat exchanger mentioned.
Quote to repair from independant non Volvo Penta company. £6K.
Prefer onsite repair but will move boat if required.
Any recommendations for a company to do this job in the Southeast.
DIY.
Bits to fix, seals/oil etc around £1K but special tools needed ?
 
Last edited:

Elessar

Well-known member
Joined
10 Jul 2003
Messages
9,997
Location
River Hamble
Visit site
My pal needed a new IPS leg. Known issue when he got the boat which was priced accordingly.
Replacing it was a proper saga, with upgraded components not compatible etc, stupid prices for tiny bits which he didn’t realise he didn’t have and long lead times.
Apparently water in the leg kills the clutches. His did 18 months but failed eventuality.
So what are you getting for the £6k? If not clutched I’d say it is only a temporary fix I’m afraid.
But this is rather a “my mate said” reply.
The only thing I can say authoritatively is make sure you get someone who knows what they are doing and that, sadly, the job may be harder than first appeared.
 

volvopaul

Well-known member
Joined
1 Apr 2007
Messages
8,888
Location
midlands
hotmail.co.uk
Water in gearbox.
Personally suspect propshaft seals but leg ? heat exchanger mentioned.
Quote to repair from independant non Volvo Penta company. £6K.
Prefer onsite repair but will move boat if required.
Any recommendations for a company to do this job in the Southeast.
DIY.
Bits to fix, seals/oil etc around £1K but special tools needed ?
6 k to do shaft seals !!!! Someone’s trying it on , if your careful fitting new seals no real special tools are required other than a simple home made puller to pull the housing where the exhaust anode fits , you just have to be careful not to damage the bearing cage .
 

stelican

Well-known member
Joined
25 Nov 2004
Messages
3,251
Location
fareham hampshire
Visit site
6 k to do shaft seals !!!! Someone’s trying it on , if your careful fitting new seals no real special tools are required other than a simple home made puller to pull the housing where the exhaust anode fits , you just have to be careful not to damage the bearing cage .
Does this include clutch pack replacement?
 

volvopaul

Well-known member
Joined
1 Apr 2007
Messages
8,888
Location
midlands
hotmail.co.uk
Does this include clutch pack replacement?
No that’s a massive job , the OP is saying water in oil .
Over the years I have come across many units with water in the oil , if there have been no fault codes that relate to low oil pressure, clutch slip by means of delay engaging gears , oil going black then it’s highly likely the clutch packs are ok , it just depends how long it’s been used with emulsified oil in the unit .
 

stelican

Well-known member
Joined
25 Nov 2004
Messages
3,251
Location
fareham hampshire
Visit site
No that’s a massive job , the OP is saying water in oil .
Over the years I have come across many units with water in the oil , if there have been no fault codes that relate to low oil pressure, clutch slip by means of delay engaging gears , oil going black then it’s highly likely the clutch packs are ok , it just depends how long it’s been used with emulsified oil in the unit .
So an unknown for how long water has been in the oil if only checked annually. Volvo always reccomend new clutches I am told by someone who had the problem.
Or can the oil be checked from inboard?
 
Last edited:

oldgit

Well-known member
Joined
6 Nov 2001
Messages
28,265
Location
Medway
Visit site
The oil was changed a few weeks ago and light emulsification was found in the port leg oil.
No obvious other discolourations.
No reports of any clutch slip.
Boat has been relaunched.
Have suggested that problem is urgently sorted.
 

volvopaul

Well-known member
Joined
1 Apr 2007
Messages
8,888
Location
midlands
hotmail.co.uk
The oil was changed a few weeks ago and light emulsification was found in the port leg oil.
No obvious other discolourations.
No reports of any clutch slip.
Boat has been relaunched.
Have suggested that problem is urgently sorted.
What was the point of re launch , crazy . If no clutch problems then re seal the shafts and monitor oil by checking dipstick or spun filter off to check oil , that’s a really simple task .
 

volvopaul

Well-known member
Joined
1 Apr 2007
Messages
8,888
Location
midlands
hotmail.co.uk
Volvopaul how often would you replace shaft seals (from a preventative perspective) seems to be a common point of weakness.

Thanks
The answer is when required , you drain oil and see water , you investIgate the cause of ingress . In my years on this job and working on this product it’s not always the seals that are responsible for the ingress .
I have seen so many times failed bellows , bellow clips attached in the wrong position, loose dipsticks and drain plugs , even no o rings fitted , one of the best is people who use a certain company in the
UK who do not use genuine bottom shaft seals that have mild steel springs , they probably last a couple of months then allow water past the seal . Most of the above applies to drives but the IPS has the same principal relating to the shaft seals .
 
Last edited:

alt

Well-known member
Joined
24 Oct 2006
Messages
4,098
Location
Éire
Visit site
Volvopaul how often would you replace shaft seals (from a preventative perspective) seems to be a common point of weakness.

Thanks
Just to throw my un-educated opinion for the sake of chat....
I have 2003 KAD300's with DP-G.

Noticed a dtop of oil weeping from the starboard prop-shaft seals (big seals) a few years ago but no water in the oil - of course changed the seals immediately - problem solved.
Only at the end of last season (so essentially 20 years), I noticed cracks on the prop-shaft seal on the port leg but no water in oil - again changed immediately.

Really is 'how long is a piece of string' - I'd go with VP's suggestion.... you'll be changing your leg oil annually anyway (I hope!) - when the oil doesn't come out clean, investigate and replace as necessary. The genuine VP seals aren't cheap (no way i'm risking aftermarket here) but in the grand scheme of things, they're pennies!
 
Top