Intermittent problem with Volvo 2002 start switch

[Houleaux]

I have an intermittent problem with the key type start switch in my Volvo 2002 instrument panel. At least, I think it's the switch....

It's a very selective fault and only happens at inconvenient moments. I have never once been able to recreate the problem when tied up safely alongside.

Basically, when I turn the key nothing happens. No warning lights. Nothing. If I turn the key and get the warning lights then, when I turn it further to the start position, the engine will fire up.

I've cleaned all accessible terminals including those on the back of the panel and in the engine compartment but the problem persists. Last week I had forgotten to turn the key to the off position when I stopped the engine to sail and the lights were still on when I went to restart the engine. Thinking that this time all would be well, I turned the key to the off position and then immediately back on (you can't turn it to the start position without turning it off first if it's already been started). You've guessed it! No lights. Nothing!

It was this most recent occurence that made me think it must be the switch itself as the power was there ok until the moment I turned the key.

So I've just looked up the cost of a replacement. £142 with delivery seems a bit steep to me and hence my question....

Has anyone found a suitable (cheaper!) alternative to the Volvo part? Or, alternatively, does anyone have an old one kicking about that they'd be happy to sell me?

Thanks

Rob

 

[VicS]

Keypart a little cheaper ITYWF unless they charge a mint for delivery

But theres nothing special about the switch is there. Have you checked Furneaux Riddall http://www.furneauxriddall.com/acatalog/Ignition_Switches.html
Four postion diesel engine switch switch (Off, On, preheat and start) just over £12 or £51 for a waterproof one

 

[pvb]

It might not necessarily be the key switch - there could be an intermittent connection in the supply to the instrument panel. Could be worth checking the integrity of loom connector and fuse block first.

 

[pvb]

But theres nothing special about the switch is there. Have you checked Furneaux Riddall http://www.furneauxriddall.com/acatalog/Ignition_Switches.html
Four postion diesel engine switch switch (Off, On, preheat and start) just over £12 or £51 for a waterproof one

Worth noting that the 2002 doesn't have glow plugs, so no need for a switch with preheat.

 

[VicS]

Worth noting that the 2002 doesn't have glow plugs, so no need for a switch with preheat.

I thought it might not... i should have checked ..... There may be switches avaialble without the glowplug position one for a car will probably do the trick...

Or just ignore the glowplug position or connect it to the run position

I think I would try to do some checks to confirm it is the switch before replacing it. although easier to say than to do perhaps.


Pretty conclusive though if sometimes everything works ...and continues to work while at other times nothing works at all.

 

[jerry098]

We had the same problem when we had a Volvo 2002. It seemed to be related to the main fuse block that is on the top of the engine. Either a bad connection, dry joint or perhaps a hairline crack in the circuit board - a common problem, I understand.
A jiggle with the connections seemed to get things working again.
We never got the bottom of it as the engine was replaced.

 

[Houleaux]

Thanks all.

I can't be sure, but I still think it's most likely the switch because of the most recent occurence.

I'll have a word with Furneaux Riddall as they're local to me and may be able to help.

If anyone does have an OE switch that's surplus to requirements though....

 

[scottie]

Worth noting that the 2002 doesn't have glow plugs, so no need for a switch with preheat.

Some do have glow plugs but only when built to SOLAS spec which may be why the option is in the starter switch but more likely it's the one that comes with the panel ie one size fits all

 

[Bilgediver]

I would agree with others that the most likely source of the problem is the fuse block on the engine. Volvo use poor materials and corrosion set in. The reason you had the lights on but then no start is that this corrosion let small currents pass but then refused to allow full start current for the solonoid coil. This is usual with this fault. Just clean the contacts and tighten the spaode onnectio and assemble after greasing.. DO not replace the switch till you have tried this as it is a regular fault with older Volvo enginesl

Replacing the fuse block with one with screw clamp connections sorts out things.

 

[Bongo]

+1 fuse box on top of the engine ( ..+3 ?) We had this problem at an awkward moment, started the engine by shorting across the solenoid.You can eliminate the fuse box by joining the 'in 'and ' out' spade connectors together..
M.

 

[pvb]

Some do have glow plugs but only when built to SOLAS spec which may be why the option is in the starter switch but more likely it's the one that comes with the panel ie one size fits all

I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure there weren't any 2002 engines built to SOLAS specs - you're perhaps getting confused with the 2003 engine which, in SOLAS spec, had an air intake heater (rather than glow plugs as such).

 

[reeac]

I have had intermittent starting problems with our VP2002. The first was due to a slightly faulty fuse "block" which was replaced and has been OK for years now. The second was due to a slightly corroded spade terminal on the starter solenoid. That happened about once every 2 years and was normally cureable by sliding off and then on again a few times to scrape through the corrosion. After this cure failed to work this summer I tried some thorough emery papering which effected a cure so I now carry a few strips of emery in the chart table. I've wondered about smearing the whole thing with grease to keep it dry.

 

[Houleaux]

I would agree with others that the most likely source of the problem is the fuse block on the engine. Volvo use poor materials and corrosion set in. The reason you had the lights on but then no start is that this corrosion let small currents pass but then refused to allow full start current for the solonoid coil. This is usual with this fault. Just clean the contacts and tighten the spaode onnectio and assemble after greasing.. DO not replace the switch till you have tried this as it is a regular fault with older Volvo enginesl

Replacing the fuse block with one with screw clamp connections sorts out things.

As I say, I'm not 100% sure it's the switch but I've never had the engine fail to start once the lights are on and that's why I think it is. In the case of the most recent occurence of the fault, the lights were on because I hadn't turned the key to the off position when I'd previously stopped the engine. To restart the engine, I had to turn the switch to the off position before it it could be turned to the start position. When I turned it off and immediately on, the lights didn't come on and so the engine wouldn't start. I turned the switch off and on several times without success, so it was back to the screwdriver across the solenoid terminals method once again!

 

[Houleaux]

I have had intermittent starting problems with our VP2002. The first was due to a slightly faulty fuse "block" which was replaced and has been OK for years now. The second was due to a slightly corroded spade terminal on the starter solenoid. That happened about once every 2 years and was normally cureable by sliding off and then on again a few times to scrape through the corrosion. After this cure failed to work this summer I tried some thorough emery papering which effected a cure so I now carry a few strips of emery in the chart table. I've wondered about smearing the whole thing with grease to keep it dry.

I've cleaned all the terminals in the circuit with emery and contact cleaner and also nipped up any loose connecters so they're all a tight fit.

Despite my belief that it's the switch that's at fault, the number of reported instances of fuse box problems is starting to make me wonder....!!

 

[Houleaux]

Houleaux 0 : Those suggesting Fuse Box 1

I have an intermittent problem with the key type start switch in my Volvo 2002 instrument panel. At least, I think it's the switch....

It's a very selective fault and only happens at inconvenient moments. I have never once been able to recreate the problem when tied up safely alongside.

Basically, when I turn the key nothing happens. No warning lights. Nothing. If I turn the key and get the warning lights then, when I turn it further to the start position, the engine will fire up.

I've cleaned all accessible terminals including those on the back of the panel and in the engine compartment but the problem persists. Last week I had forgotten to turn the key to the off position when I stopped the engine to sail and the lights were still on when I went to restart the engine. Thinking that this time all would be well, I turned the key to the off position and then immediately back on (you can't turn it to the start position without turning it off first if it's already been started). You've guessed it! No lights. Nothing!

It was this most recent occurence that made me think it must be the switch itself as the power was there ok until the moment I turned the key.

So I've just looked up the cost of a replacement. £142 with delivery seems a bit steep to me and hence my question....

Has anyone found a suitable (cheaper!) alternative to the Volvo part? Or, alternatively, does anyone have an old one kicking about that they'd be happy to sell me?

Thanks

Rob

Well "I've" (ahem!) finally cracked this one!

Having found what appeared to be a suitable replacement key switch from Furneaux Riddall (very helpful people and happy to take the switch back without quibble when I realised it wasn't required) I took it to the boat to replace my existing one. When testing the old v new switch terminals with a multimeter to ensure I connected up the new switch correctly, it dawned on me that the old switch was performing perfectly. I then checked the power feed to the switch and, for the first time ever whilst tied up ashore, there was no 12V supply!

I therefore traced the supply wire back to the fuse box and there was no 12V on the output side of the box. I disconnected the wire to the input side and that had 12V, so the power was clearly going missing within the fuse box. I replaced the input wire and checked the output terminal I'd been using and there was now power to it, so clearly there was an intermitent fault within the fuse box.

For those not familiar with it, the fuses are not the replaceable sort. They are just fuse wire soldered at one end to a common contact strip that feeds all 4 fuses from the single 12V supply and, at the other end, to individual terminals with a spade type connector. I bought a replacement part and I have to say that the quality of the soldering isn't great.

Anyway, for the time being I just swapped the output wire that feeds the instrument panel and starter switch to one of the other available terminals. I then went sailing and, for the first time in months, I was able to reliably start the engine when approaching harbour (and not just when setting off!) on both days I was out.

With the benefit of hindsight, I suppose it had to be something that could be affected by heat that was causing the problem. The engine always started when alongside (i.e. when cold) but quite often refused to re-start after a few hours sailing (i.e. when the engine was hot). The fuse box is mounted on top of the engine, so will heat up when the engine does. I suspect that the heat within the fuse box was just enough to cause some minor distortion that severed a dodgy connection. When everything was stone cold, the process reversed and the connection was re-made.

So, thanks to all those who suggested the fuse box. I'll listen properly next time!

 

[pvb]

So, thanks to all those who suggested the fuse box. I'll listen properly next time!

Glad you finally got it sorted! Intermittent faults are infuriating.
.

 

[Bilgediver]

We had the same problem when we had a Volvo 2002. It seemed to be related to the main fuse block that is on the top of the engine. Either a bad connection, dry joint or perhaps a hairline crack in the circuit board - a common problem, I understand.
A jiggle with the connections seemed to get things working again.
We never got the bottom of it as the engine was replaced.

I believe this is his problem too.... High resistance build up on the spade terminals and they need replacing or cleaning?tightening.

The fuse block on the engine can be replaced easily with one having screw clamps for the wires and then the problem is solved.

 

[Momac]

I had much the same issue, although not the same engine.

I took apart and cleaned every contact on or near the starter motor - no joy.
I had convinced myself it was the starter motor solenod - replaced that and no improvement.
Next it seemed to be the switch on the dash - quite expensive - new switch bought and fitted but again no success.
On my engine I discovered there is a relay located in a black box on top of the engine. On close xamination the relay had some soot under it an dthe contacts were a little burned and loose. A good clean up and pinched up the electrical contact fitings so they were a tight fit has cured the fault and no trouble since.

.

 

[Bilgediver]

Well "I've" (ahem!) finally cracked this one!



So, thanks to all those who suggested the fuse box. I'll listen properly next time!

Smiling!!!!! Yes those fuse thingies are an abomination and have been around since the early seventies at least....There is a four fuse unit in many chandleries which is more or less a direct replacement and many folk I have helped with this problem have fitted it... The fault often defies many for many years......Till it is fixed