Interior woodwork - unfaded patches behind fittings

prv

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Moving things around in the new boat's saloon, part of the bulkhead that was previously covered is now revealed. After 14 years, most of the woodwork has faded - still looks fine, but of course the new patch looks a lot darker.

Any cunning techniques for hiding the difference?

Cheers,

Pete
 
Moving things around in the new boat's saloon, part of the bulkhead that was previously covered is now revealed. After 14 years, most of the woodwork has faded - still looks fine, but of course the new patch looks a lot darker.

Any cunning techniques for hiding the difference?

Cheers,

Pete

if it is teak.......

do nothing. within 2 years it will fade in.
 
Pete,

on wooden dinghies with this matching problem there was a trick of using diluted bleach in many light applications to get everything the same shade.

Maybe one could use oxalic acid but be very careful with that stuff, I nearly got badly burned; I found out the hard way that the only way to neutralise it is immersing the bit of ones' body affected in cold water for 40+ minutes; eye protection is vital !

Of course these things only fade the rest of the surroundings to suit; bringing the lustre back up is different, one thing I've found to work is 'Owatrol'.
 
if it is teak.......

do nothing. within 2 years it will fade in.

That's interesting - certainly has the benefit of not requiring much effort :)

Not sure it is teak though. I'm no expert, but it seems a bit light. Cherry, perhaps?

Here's a picture (broker's photo):



Pete
 
on wooden dinghies with this matching problem there was a trick of using diluted bleach in many light applications to get everything the same shade.

I did think of bleaching, but of course the bulkhead is varnished which I assume means the mix won't get through. If I were to strip the varnish off the dark patch before bleaching then it would be difficult to blend the new varnish into the existing, and revarnishing the whole bulkhead is a bigger job than I really want to take on just for aesthetics.

Pete
 
Googling 'ageing solutions for wood' gives results which maybe useful, Borax Acid is one product. A neighbour used an ageing solution from a builders merchant to match new wood beams to existing beams.

Perhaps you could carefully remove the surface coating over the area with modelling craft tools, age the wood and then use an airbrush to blend back in new varnish. I have seen some remarkable repairs to custom bike paintwork using airbrushes. They can powered from canisters of compressed air.

A furniture restorer could be engaged to work on the dark patches. I have had a few pieces of furniture with damaged surfaces (stains and light burn marks) repaired over the years and it certainly didn't involve stripping the whole lot down.

Food for thought.
 
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