interior repaint?

[born2sail61]

as part of a fairly major interior refit on my li'l ole boat,i would like/need to repaint all the grp furniture mouldings,bulkdead etc.have removed 50+ years of bodge ups,glue paint etc and filled countless holes. Don't particularly want a high gloss finish so am contemplating an oil based domestic eggshell finish.do i need to prime/undercoat the grp or can i just use 2/3/4 topcoats?the grp is sound and well sanded.apologies if this has been covered previously,and thanks!

 

[pampas]

Did an old 23ft Snapdragon and had the same problem many years ago, Personally I undercoated, then rubbed down to find any missed digs cleaned undercoated again then used off white (Ivory, I think)gloss, and dark Mahogany coloured varnish (Blackfriars) on the wood work, looked a picture when finished.
Just after the 1st of the heavy weather this year I gave the present owner a hand to re-moor and had a chance to look below decks and admired the finish. owner apart from doing the varnish, had never touched the paint work apart from polishing with Pledge since he bought her from me in 1997.

 

[alahol2]

Just seen someone's bilges that he coated with flowcoat. Very smart finish. It was also surprisingly cheap, I think £30 for 5 Litres. Now wondering about using it on the doors in the house. It is a shiny finish though.

 

[born2sail61]

biggest problem was removing previous owners 'improvements',lots of rotten ply,mouldy patchwork of carpet stuck all over etc.boat never had a lot of internal wood originally,what's there is still very good.i will add some(sympathetically)but rely on seat covers etc to add colour

 

[oldsaltoz]

Flow coat = Gel coat with a wax added, it can be applied with a brush or foam pad (of the right material).

Much harder wearing than any paint near the price, I pained the Shower-toilet and forward cabin walls with it and sold the boat about 7 years later and was still in great condition. easy to wipe clean, chemical resistant and flows on very easy.

To get a really good finish apply several thin layers, keeping a wet edge. it hardens in about 30 minutes or less

Oh, and make sure the area is well ventilated.

Good luck and fair winds.

 

[Poignard]

OSA, what surface preparation does the flow-coat require?

 

[born2sail61]

re flocoat. Sounds good for the bilges/under berth lockers.any good for topsides? Does it react with old paints? Thanks

 

[Tranona]

The sponsors of this forum PBO are running a series of features covering exactly this issue. The latest issue, out this week covers the refurbishment of the interior of their boat (a Snapdragon 23 as it happens).

Really useful for the OP to get back copies of the series as it discusses the options as well as describing the techniques and products used.

 

[oldsaltoz]

OSA, what surface preparation does the flow-coat require?

just clean the surface to remove anything that might contaminate the resin, I wipe down with Acetone, then a light sanding with 250 grit, followed by another wipe with Acetone and get stuck into applying it.

Not unlike painting any other item really.

Good luck and fair winds.

PS, there would be a few some demonstrations on You tube.

 

[oldsaltoz]

re flocoat. Sounds good for the bilges/under berth lockers.any good for topsides? Does it react with old paints? Thanks

Never apply flow coat over paint, it will almost certainly react.
Best prep is to get down to a smooth and very clean finish, Always clean the area first to remove any contamination, then sand smooth (250 grit) and clean again prior to painting.

Not unlike normal prep for painting.

Good luck and fiar winds.

 

[alahol2]

Never apply flow coat over paint, it will almost certainly react.
Best prep is to get down to a smooth and very clean finish, Always clean the area first to remove any contamination, then sand smooth (250 grit) and clean again prior to painting.

Not unlike normal prep for painting.

You say several thin coats. What is the prep required on former coats to remove the surface wax? Will a rub with acetone be enough or does it need sanding between coats?

 

[viago]

You say several thin coats. What is the prep required on former coats to remove the surface wax? Will a rub with acetone be enough or does it need sanding between coats?

best to get some gelcoat and a pot of wax (mw i think) no prep between coats, remains tacky. apply with small roller, new sponge each coat, and add wax for top coat and mix very well prior to adding hardener.
for a good finish use a bendy plastic applicator to smooth and flatten the final gel coat layer and the waxed layer.
never done it myself but have been watching the guys do a fantastic re gelcoating the top sides of a yacht next to mine and getting all the tips i can.
i can get gelcoat at £15 a gallon. wax and hardener £5 each.

 

[Poignard]

just clean the surface to remove anything that might contaminate the resin, I wipe down with Acetone, then a light sanding with 250 grit, followed by another wipe with Acetone and get stuck into applying it.
etc

Thanks for that

 

[alahol2]

best to get some gelcoat and a pot of wax (mw i think) no prep between coats, remains tacky. apply with small roller, new sponge each coat, and add wax for top coat and mix very well prior to adding hardener.

Didn't think of that, obvious really. Thanks

 

[oldsaltoz]

You say several thin coats. What is the prep required on former coats to remove the surface wax? Will a rub with acetone be enough or does it need sanding between coats?

I normally wipe with Acetone and light sand with 250 grit, then wipe again with Acetone to remove dust and residue.

Good luck and fair winds.

 

[viago]

Didn't think of that, obvious really. Thanks

you're welcome.
forgot to mention that you need to make sure the bilge lockers are clear of paint and key the surface with 80 grit with a detail sander, £2.40 for 10 sheets from toolstation.
you should be able to easily do all the area per coat before it hardens. use two roller trays, one per coat. break the dried gelcoat out of the trays on alternate coats.
use 240 grit, also from toolstation, to sand off the ridges left from the plastic applicator.

the entire job can easily be done in a day and you will have plenty left for top ups and other jobs. the finish is totally waterproof and will last for many years with nothing more than a wipe down.
if you are particularly houseproud then cut and wax it.

flocoat is just gelcoat with the wax pre-added.

 

[Colvic Watson]

How does the wax in flowcoat know which way to go? Why doesnt it migrate to the underside