Intercalated 220v generators?

Ric

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Does anybody here have experience with 220v intercalated generators from the likes of Nanni?

I do not want the maintenance, weight and cost of a separate generator, and I have enough onboard 12v electricity from solar, wind and hydro - but 220v could be useful if I am motoring anyway.

Can they be retrofitted to other engines - eg Volvo?
 
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Just googled "intercalated" and still have no idea what you mean in this context.

I assume that the OP is talking about a generator sited between the engine and the gearbox. I think that I did see something about Nanni producing one of these when I was considering a gen-set. However, it seemed OTT for my needs and I don't have a Nanni enine either. I assumed that it shaft and bell-housing bolt holes would be designed for a Nanni.
 
This type of arrangement has been around for some years with Yanmar and Nanni. Has not caught on for a number of reasons. First of course is cost - very expensive way of getting not a lot of usable electric power. It also adds significantly to the overall length of the engine which makes packaging and installation a problem - losing space on new boats and impossible as retrofit on many existing boats.

Boosting 12v capacity is easier with solar and wind, but if you are going 220v for systems such as cooking, air conditioning etc then you need the capacity of a standalone generator. This is more possible in larger boats that benefit from 220v.

Doubt it can be fitted to existing engines as the units are designed for original fitting and also the size would mean a repositioning of the engine and few existing boats can cope with this.
 
You can fit a 240VAC alternator to any engine. You could use a belt drive and I have seen people use a car aircon electric clutch to connect/disconnect. Although a disconnected alternator should not present too much load.
You can use belt drive from crankshaft pulley. However much depends on the power you want to extract. A direct coupling to the front of the engine crankshaft might be better.
The major problem is that all your electric loads will be designed for 50 hertz AC. They can perhaps tolerate 45 to 55 hertz but may not like a any further deviation.
Most alternators have a rotating field which produces AC in the outer windings dependent on speed of rotation. So you can get an alternator which requires a drive speed of 3000 RPM or if it has 2 field coil then it will require 1500RPM to produce 50 hertz. Power produced will depend on the capacity of the alternator and the horsepower you can deliver via the drive. so 650 watts = 1 HP without losses. So 1500 watt alternator feeding 1500w load will need around 2.5 HP.
Alternators can be single phase or 3 phase but I imagine you need single phase output. They should produce a good sine wave output.
You will have to settle on a specific engine speed to carefully maintain (depending on pulley ratios and alternator type) to maintain correct AC frequency.
Dunlite was one brand of alternator.
Some modern small Ac generators actually have an alternator generating a high frequency depending on engine speed. This is rectified to DC (just like your 12v generator (alternator) it then feeds an inverter to produce 50 hertz. Unfortunately not always a good sine wave so not suitable for all loads. If you were to go down that path you might as well stick with 12v or 24v DC supply and batteries to an inverter.

Interesting useless fact. All large jets have 400 hertz 440 volt alternators. (a B747 can have 6 X40Kw alternators) These are driven by the engines whose speed varies. They have a very complex constant speed drive device a bit like a car auto gearbox actually using differential drives with brake or hydraulic drive of one leg to get constant speed to the alternator at up to 150 HP.
good luck olewill
 
I would have thought an inverter would be cheaper and more convenient. Many liveaboards run domestic washing machines and suchlike 230 volt devices off inverters, running the engine if necessary to provide 12 volt power.
 
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