Insulating Heating trunking

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hunter323

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I would like to insulate the heating trunking from my Eberspacher to the outlets.Firstly to save costs and also cos the first part of the trunking gets pretty hot next to the heater outlet.
I should appreciate any ideas or suggestions particularly from those who have carried out the exercise. Many thanks
 
hunter323 said:
I would like to insulate the heating trunking from my Eberspacher to the outlets.Firstly to save costs and also cos the first part of the trunking gets pretty hot next to the heater outlet.
I should appreciate any ideas or suggestions particularly from those who have carried out the exercise. Many thanks
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Carried out the exercise numerous times, in fact every new install i have done for over two years has been insulated but if your primary aim is to save cost you may find the Webo and Eber Thinsulate sleeve prohibitive, but it is the best stuff I have used and that's measured not percieved, not huge thick stuff and very, very effective.
 
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Lodesman77 said:
What's your budget? If cost is no issue and time pressing, then the thinsulate would be good. If you want to do it as cheaply as possible then loft insulation and aluminium foil work well, albeit a more time consuming process. Or going somewhere between you may wish to consider this:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261373845955?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
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I deemed that to be too fragile
David has the best duct & insulation.
replaced all my ducting 2 weeks ago, what a difference, more air getting through the outlets & much hotter too
 
David2452 said:
Anything used on ducting should be capable of withstanding 140 degrees, that stuff is only rated at 120, probably a very good compromise further down the branches but not so good close to the heater outlet.
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Very useful info, the first time I've seen a figure quoted (may have missed an earlier thread though). As a matter of interest, would you insulate right up to the heater outlet?
 
Lodesman77 said:
As a matter of interest, would you insulate right up to the heater outlet?
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I routinely do, but I am using the right stuff. Interestingly on later heaters where the new EU regs have forced a reduction in the overheat sensor cut in temperature it has caused issues on longer runs of a small number but removing 6" cured the issue. I put that down to slower moving air caused by the resistance of the duct runs which were close to the limits. I have not experimented to see if a new sensor made a difference in those cases but may try that one day.
 
In my case I have left the first metre uncovered, the next two metres are covered with exhaust fibre wrap that practically is a heat resistant Aramid fibre (Kevlar is an Aramid fibre). The remainder is double aluminium coated bubble wrap which is quite thin, but at the same time very effective.

It was a lot cheaper than Webasto or Eberspacher covers (that might be filled with Aramid).

I am very satisfied with the results. At the outlets the air is so hot that it is hard to hold a hand there for more than a few seconds whilst the bubble wrap covering the duct is just about warm.

It was also easy to fit in confined spaces, I have used sections as long as the width of a bubble wrap roll, rolled them around the duct leaving them a little lose, joined them using duct tape and then pushed along sliding on the duct into the unreachable space.
 
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A cheapskate writes, I insulated my ducting with the double foil bubble wrap secured with tie wraps from E bay, about £17 IIRC. I didn't insulate the first 3 feet of the ducting.

Measured on my old Wallas heater it improved the temp at the outlets by 10°C.
 
my trunking runs under the bunks in the cabin. i was going to insulate it but then thought any heat lost will rise up and warm the covers from below. its a wooden boat so plenty of gaps in the bunk planks
 
rosewood said:
my trunking runs under the bunks in the cabin. i was going to insulate it but then thought any heat lost will rise up and warm the covers from below. its a wooden boat so plenty of gaps in the bunk planks
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I routinely leave 4" uninsulated where trunking runs through lockers and wardrobes containing clothing and bedding, usually pop a vent top and bottom too if aesthetics and customer permit.
 
PCUK said:
Standard loft insulation wrapped in plastic sheet and secured with duct tape. Costs peanuts and is highly effective.
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If I may offer a refinement(?). Previous boat with a single outlet: standard Rockwool loft insulation cut in half thickness-wise held in place with B&Q ventilator ducting. The ducting never got warm even at the heater end.
Of course, if budget is not limited I would go for the proper thinsulate.
 
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