instruction manual on how to get Volvo 290 legs off/on please

[robyonfrome]

Is there a an instruction manual specifically on how to get Volvo 290 legs off and on, don’t want a great big manual. Used to do it myself many years ago its not at all difficult but Iv lost confidence and could do with some picture guides to follow. Don’t want to leave them on the boat when I take it out of the water in April, as someone decided to give my brother a hand and take his off for him.

 

[DavidJ]

Have a look at one of DAKA's postings. He has a Lazy Git's Search Engine link at the bottom of his page. I think there is something there.

 

[Pendana]

Remove props
Remove shift linkage cover and remove pivot pin from the end of the shift selector cable
Remove pins from trim cyliders
Remove steering pin from steering helmet
Release the shift cable clamp under the UJ bellows
Raise leg and support thoroughly
Release the UJ and exhaust bellows and the raw water hose
Lower the leg
Support the leg under the skeg with timber blocks to take the weight
(This next bit really needs two people cos its heavy)
Pull the pins from the transom shield and carefully allow the leg to lean aft whilst withdrawing the selector cable
Lift leg from transom shield.
Pat yourself on the back if you managed to do all that without banging your head on the bathing platform!!

 

[DoubleVision]

[ QUOTE ]
Pat yourself on the back if you managed to do all that without banging your head on the bathing platform!!

[/ QUOTE ]

/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Deja Vous!!. Time to do it all again next month and the top of my head has just healed up! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[epervier]

First trim it FULLY down, drain the oil and remove the back cover.
Now disconnect the vertical link on the gearshift at the lower end ( small split pin), remove the 14 mm nut each side of the upper housing.
Remove the two hex bolts that are upside below the upper section (behind the cover you removed)
Remove the two hex bolts in the round spigot in the rear of the steering helmet, then using the long lower screw from the rear cover, wind it into one of the two smaller holes and it will push the spigot out of its housing, pull the spigot right out and swing up the helmet exposing the bellows, now you can slacken the rear hoseclamp and slide the rear of the bellows forwards off the drive ( this is where you hold your breath and hope no smelly rusty water runs out!)
Now you can lift the upper section, sometimes a little leverage under one of the side bolts will help, then place a flat bar or spanner between the upper section and center section to spare your fingers if it slips, you can wriggle it upwards and see that the break tube remains in the lower part ( this is a weak link connecting the upper and lower splined vertical shafts with a machined break point so it will collapse if you hit something hard instead of stripping the upper gears)
It doesn't matter if it comes out just place it back on the lower shaft, you may need a small screwdriver to hold it down while you lift the gear housing.
When you have the short splined shaft projecting from under the housing clear rotate the housing 90 degrees and pull it backwards to clear the bellows, the U/J may swing down so watch your fingers. Make sure the short little tube in the front of the drive shaft isn't lost, it normally remains sat in the center section.
MOST IMPORTANT MAKE SURE ANY SHIMS FITTED UNDER THE LOWER BEARING OF THE NOW REMOVED HOUSING ARE REPLACED IN THE RECESS IN THE LOWER SECTION BEFORE THEY ARE LOST. They are about 4 " in dia. Now place a rag over the opening while you work to keep any debris out of the center section.
Its all pretty obvious when you see it, now you can replace the bellows as normal, you will just need the small and large 'o' rings which seal the upper and lower housings in addition to other parts.
To rebuild just lube the o rings and guide the U/J in with one hand with the gear box turned on its side, then rotate to vertical and guide the shaft back into the break tube, a last check to make sure the shims are lying flat in their machined track and tighten everything down.
This is a good time to make sure your gear cables are adjusted correctly, make sure the lever is in neutral, and the shift quadrant on the rear of the upper housing is horizontal and in its neutral detent, then the cable end should fit straight into the shift arm on the back of the drive, if not adjust it on its thread until they line up.
Then its just new oil, anodes, and you did remember to tighten the two hoseclips on the bellows didn't you.

I hope that doesn't sound too complicated, I've been explicit to anticipate any questions you may have, but let me know if its not clear.
Its not really difficult and saves a load of work and bad backs as you can sit on the cavitation plate while you work!

This was posted by Spannerman Feb 2007

no credit to me, I just copied and pasted

 

[neale]

Isn't that Spannermans patented short cut method for replacing bellows? I think the OP was looking for info on removing the whole leg.

 

[robyonfrome]

Thanks guys
yes I did want to remove the whole leg, but reading through brings it all back, you know what its like once you start something you begin to remember but the tips are very good I will down load them and consult as Im doing it. If anyone does know of a manual that would be great.
Once again thanks for your time