Installing a new inner forestay.

[dexneverathome]

I liked the Wichard version which does not rely on the strength of the rivets. It fits inside a slot in the mast and the rivets just hold it in place. It has one hole for the inner stay and one for an external halyard block. Each half is inserted separately and then the two halves bolt together. Babystay tang
View attachment 138474
It seemed a bit oversize for my little boat so I made one up out of 2mm stainless at zero cost.

I have actually taken delivery of the Selden part now and yes, it’s footprint on the mast is tiny. I definitely prefer the Wichard version. I’m going to use a Wichard in preference to the Selden part.
Thank you all for your input and advice here, much appreciated. I have lots to learn.

 

[William_H]

I liked the Wichard version which does not rely on the strength of the rivets. It fits inside a slot in the mast and the rivets just hold it in place. It has one hole for the inner stay and one for an external halyard block. Each half is inserted separately and then the two halves bolt together. Babystay tang
View attachment 138474
It seemed a bit oversize for my little boat so I made one up out of 2mm stainless at zero cost.

Now there is a cunning idea to get fitting inside mast given no way you could get it into the inside any other way. Must be a bit of a b.. getting rivet holes to line up. ol'will

 

[William_H]

Or put a sleeve through the mast so that either the sleeve protrudes just enough to take the shear load of the plate or just to take the compression loading of the bolt through the mast. The only way I can think of getting exactly the right length of bolt to ensure that the stainless plates do not rest on the threads, would be to get a length of plain round stock and cut it the right length and then cut threads on either end to allow a nut and washer either side. Either way it’s much better to sleeve the bolt through the mast to prevent the mast being put under undue compression and perhaps distorting the mast extrusion. Duralac is your friend in the final assembly along with nylocs or lock nuts (or punch the end of the stud to lock the nut…)

Yes quite so John. I have just done this to my little boat cap shrouds and intermediates where I found in my foolishness years ago I had tang loaded onto the threaded part. I used an over length bolt and cut thread down to correct length. No sleeve. (stiff) Nut bottoms on thread but lack of loading is good to allow tang to align itself. ol'will