Installation of echo sounder transducer

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angelsson

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Has anyone fitted an in hull transducer kit either ready made or put together themselves.

I have recently bought a clipper duet, complete with speed and depth transducers, the speed will fit into existing thru-hull ok, but the depth can be installed in 3 ways:

(i) The transducer face can be bonded directly to the inside of
the hull. (Some energy is lost to the hull but the loss in
performance is, for most G.R.P hulls, hardly noticeable).
(ii) A transom mount is available from your dealer.
(iii) The transducer can be positioned inside a G.R.P. hull by
means of an In Hull Transducer Kit.

I intend to use option 3, would appreciate any suggestions or help from those who have done so.
Also any comments on the other two methods of fitting.

Thank you
 
angelsson said:
Has anyone fitted an in hull transducer kit either ready made or put together themselves.

I have recently bought a clipper duet, complete with speed and depth transducers, the speed will fit into existing thru-hull ok, but the depth can be installed in 3 ways:

(i) The transducer face can be bonded directly to the inside of
the hull. (Some energy is lost to the hull but the loss in
performance is, for most G.R.P hulls, hardly noticeable).
(ii) A transom mount is available from your dealer.
(iii) The transducer can be positioned inside a G.R.P. hull by
means of an In Hull Transducer Kit.

I intend to use option 3, would appreciate any suggestions or help from those who have done so.
Also any comments on the other two methods of fitting.

Thank you
Click to expand...

In hull is the way to go.
1/ form a tube with drain pipe + end cap with a hole for the stem. part fill tube with suitable oil
2/ blob the transducer to the hull with silicone or as my Raymarine puck is done withe epoxy
 
sailorman said:
In hull is the way to go.
1/ form a tube with drain pipe + end cap with a hole for the stem. part fill tube with suitable oil
2/ blob the transducer to the hull with silicone or as my Raymarine puck is done withe epoxy
Click to expand...

Thank you Sailorman,
Please can you explain further, by drain pipe I presume you mean domestic plastic pipe that the transducer will fit into, and a cap to let the stem through.

The hull will be at an angle to the transducer head as in this:

http://www.marine-super-store.com/posit/shop/index.php?selectedpartno=04241

or would it be ok at 90 deg.

For what reason does the head need to be epoxied to the hull, or is silicone just as effective, with the oil added afterwards
 
The transducer wants to be upright, so its spread is even on both tacks. So cut the tube to fit the hull and stick it down with your chosen putty/epoxy. This will stop the oil from leaking out. Put enough oil in to couple the transducer to the hull with no air bubbles. I believe different manufacturers recommend various oils, e.g. mineral oil, castor oil, etc. but many owners use whatever cooking oil they have to hand. Steer clear of anything that could dissolve the plastic!

Really not too difficult.

Rob.
 
As Rob mentioned - It is preferable to have the transducer pointing straight down - then it will be equal on each tack.

Regarding the drain pipe and oil. The basic principle is that there should be no air gap between the bottom of the transducer and the sea bed. Oil, fibreglass and water all in line will effectively look like sea to the transducer - introduce air in between and it will get erroneous reflections.

So - drainpipe sealed to the hull, half filled with oil and then the transducer sitting in it is the cheap way to go if you have some of the right size drain pipe sitting around. That transducer kit however looks like the easiest way forwards since you will have no waste and the top is nicely closed off to prevent people lifting the transducer to see what's inside!

Sealing the actual transducer base to the hull is not required - oil will fill the gap.

Seal the pipe to the hull well first time though - if it leaks you have a bit of clean up to do - but it makes it easy to swap the transducer for a new one in future.
 
Yes I fitted mine "in hull" I forget if I made the fitting with plumbing parts or if I bought a kit. The former i think.

If sourcing pipe get ABS if you can as the polyester resin bonds to it. If you have to use PVC clean and roughen the surface to provide a key.

I initially stuck the tube in position with a fillet of car body filler and then glassed over with resin and CSM

The instructions produced by Seafarer are:



scan0041.jpg

scan0042.jpg
 
As a temporary experiment I simply stuck my NASA depth transducer to the inside of the hull with a dollop of silicone sealer. The temporary experiment is still proceeding satisfactorily 18 months later!
Income tax was brought in as a temporary measure I believe. It's lasted all right!
 
Go for the simple/no hole option

Willow3 said:
As a temporary experiment I simply stuck my NASA depth transducer to the inside of the hull with a dollop of silicone sealer. The temporary experiment is still proceeding satisfactorily 18 months later!
Click to expand...

Ours (NASA Clipper) is too. The plan was to see how/if it worked and then make a 'permanent' fix with epoxy if it was OK; it's now been on the original silicone for five seasons, reads well & has never moved.

Use a good big gobbet of silicone so that you've sufficient depth to ensure it sits vertically, ours is reading accurately enough through close to an inch of solid grp and about 1/4"-1" of silicone.
 
Plasticine

I HATE hole in the bottom of boats.....

I have fitted depth transducers inside my previous and present boat with Plasticine.

I use the stuff that my local boatbuilder uses, cllean the hull inside really well, warm the Plasticine up really well, lay it on the hull and push the transducer in.

When it cools down it has never moved on its own.

Has the added benefit of bring re-positionable if you get the wrong place.

You have noting to lose :D
 
As I don't think anyone has mentioned it, the traditional oil recommended was Castor oil ( from Boots ) but it's reckoned most oils will do.

The in-hull tube for the transducer should have a well sealed cap.

I've found on most boats a couple of feet ahead of the keel / s is the best spot; a touch more awkward as usually more Veed hull there, but in front of bubbles from keels etc.

Incidentally for test purposes, if it's quiet one can hear a faint ticking if the transducer is working.
 
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