Inspecting old Seacocks

graham

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Have removed 2 seacocks from my boat. They look like bronze and show no signs of corrosion or discolouring etc. They are gate valve type and seem to work perfectly.

Strong possibility they may be original 1973 vintage .Is there any point renewing with something that could well be inferior?
 

Norman_E

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If they really do date from 1973 then they are probably bronze, as I doubt brass ones would have survived that long. I would however be wary of putting them back. The reason is that my experience with gate valves in domestic use is that I have had two which suffered stripped threads, resulting in one case in a valve that was jammed shut, and in the other case one that could not be closed. If there is significant free play when you turn the handle, junk them, as the threads are probably on the way out.
 

Tranona

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Do hope they are not gate valves if you are using them below the waterline - not recommended, should be ball valves which you can tell if open or closed by the handle position.
 

KenMcCulloch

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Apologies if this is too obvious but are you sure they are gate valves? Things with a little wheel that you turn typically 4-5 complete rotations to close or open? Sometimes we see confusion about the naming of parts.

If they are gate valves and are really almost 40 years old that is truly astonishing!
 

Leighb

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I agree with Tranona. Gate valves have a habit of corroding inside and you can't tell at a glance if they are open or closed.

It is not only gate valves, ball valves can do this also. There was a photo in a recent YM of one where the ball had just corroded away. The handle turned giving the impression that the valve was operating.

I have just had all my seacocks removed. All were non DZR brass. The heads outlet one had ben leaking slightly at the spindle. When removed it was apparent that altho' it appeared to operate OK, the ball was not closing, so a burst hose could have sunk us. :eek:
 

Colvic Watson

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We recently removed and serviced the 9 seacocks on the Kipper. They all date from the 1977 build and all the ball valves were in perfect condition, the gate valve had corroded and was ready to fail :eek:

Having been nervous of the job I was surprised how easy it was and it's one of those jobs that gives a lot of satisfaction knowing they are sound.
 

ghostlymoron

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It is not only gate valves, ball valves can do this also. There was a photo in a recent YM of one where the ball had just corroded away. The handle turned giving the impression that the valve was operating.

I have just had all my seacocks removed. All were non DZR brass. The heads outlet one had ben leaking slightly at the spindle. When removed it was apparent that altho' it appeared to operate OK, the ball was not closing, so a burst hose could have sunk us. :eek:

I agree about ball valves - there not foolproof. One of my cockpit drains appeared to be partially blocked - stainless steel ballvalve - the handle turned OK through 180deg. When I removed it to investigate, the brass? axle had worn away where the handle was attached leaving the handle to turn but leaving the ball partially open. Could have been disasterous! I replaced both cockpit drain seacocks with good quality S/S and checked all the others below waterline which were OK.
 

graham

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Whatever type you have you need to inspect them regularilly. Mine are defo gate valves look like bronze and are in perfect condition inside and out. I dont know for defo that they are original but as very little else has been updated its possible.

Thanks for all replies.
 

davidej

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It is not only gate valves, ball valves can do this also. There was a photo in a recent YM of one where the ball had just corroded away. The handle turned giving the impression that the valve was operating.

I have just had all my seacocks removed. All were non DZR brass. The heads outlet one had ben leaking slightly at the spindle. When removed it was apparent that altho' it appeared to operate OK, the ball was not closing, so a burst hose could have sunk us. :eek:

+1
 
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