info re seal 28

M

mtb

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has any one had one sailed one ,I might have a go at sailing and they seem to be a fair size . So does that mean slow sailing speeds , am I right in thinking single handed sailing is no great chore !!! yes I know it depends on how hard you push the boat plus weather .Me being me I wont hang about cos I learn fast.

Cheers
Mick

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/boats
I want a steel ex trawler or tug cheap needing work
 
Re: Antisocial behavior

I'm being serious ask any one , I have seen one that is the right money ( or seems to be ) so thought I'd ask you lot !!
I dont have a problem checking the actual boat it's just the sailing side of things I dont know about.
Bit off no replies sort of anti social !!
This could be the start of me going from real boats into sailing LOL
Mick

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/boats
I want a steel ex trawler or tug cheap needing work
 
Re: That\'s the feller

They are just up the road from me in Boston , Quite expensive things .
The thing I am concerned about is the beam at ten foot it's very wide for such a short boat ,but then would that help re me learning to sail.
Cheers
Mick

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/boats
I want a steel ex trawler or tug cheap needing work
 
Re: That\'s the feller

Hi Mick,

I bought a 1979 Seal 28 in July last year and they definitely sail well. They will sail at 6 knots no bother at all when the scrubbed clean and I managed to average 5 knots on a channel crossing and cruise round the channel islands. They go to windward well too. If you push one too hard, you will see about 7 knots but at that speed the boat is sceaming "reef me" at you as you hang on to the tiller.

All in all, a great boat that is easy to sail, has lots of space for 28 feet and performs well, and has shallow enough draft (keel up) to get into plenty of places that your mates with fin keels wouldn't go.

So having sung the praises, what was wrong with mine (not sure if they are all fitted out the same).

- the bowroller/forestay fitting was not sufficiently reinforced underneath, and needed beefed up a lot. When I took the bow roller off, the damage to the area underneath due to the glass flexing here was a lot more than it looked

- The lifting keel has a couple of teflon (or something) blocks on the side of it which slide up and down. On a 20 year old boat these will be a bit worn, allowing the lifting keel to move slightly from side to side which causes it to bang. Solution is to get some replacements machined up, or to put a couple of stainless steel plates underneath the teflon sliders (which will probably be good for another 5 or 10 years).

- Standing rigging may well need to be replaced on a boat this age

- I think mine has a (too) big 3 blade prop which makes the engine a bit slow to pick up revs, and puts a lot of water over the rudder making it heavy to steer under power.

My boat is out the water right now (going back in on March 3 and counting the days!) otherwise I'd take you out for a spin if you are r around the S Coast. If you still haven't made a decision on this one in March then give me a shout...


Chris
 
Re: That\'s the feller

PS. Also quite easy to sail/handle/berth single handed - I was on my own on the trip around the channel islands.
 
chriscallender said:
Re: That\'s the feller

Hi Mick,

I bought a 1979 Seal 28 in July last year and they definitely sail well. They will sail at 6 knots no bother at all when the scrubbed clean and I managed to average 5 knots on a channel crossing and cruise round the channel islands. They go to windward well too. If you push one too hard, you will see about 7 knots but at that speed the boat is sceaming "reef me" at you as you hang on to the tiller.

All in all, a great boat that is easy to sail, has lots of space for 28 feet and performs well, and has shallow enough draft (keel up) to get into plenty of places that your mates with fin keels wouldn't go.

So having sung the praises, what was wrong with mine (not sure if they are all fitted out the same).

- the bowroller/forestay fitting was not sufficiently reinforced underneath, and needed beefed up a lot. When I took the bow roller off, the damage to the area underneath due to the glass flexing here was a lot more than it looked

- The lifting keel has a couple of teflon (or something) blocks on the side of it which slide up and down. On a 20 year old boat these will be a bit worn, allowing the lifting keel to move slightly from side to side which causes it to bang. Solution is to get some replacements machined up, or to put a couple of stainless steel plates underneath the teflon sliders (which will probably be good for another 5 or 10 years).

- Standing rigging may well need to be replaced on a boat this age

- I think mine has a (too) big 3 blade prop which makes the engine a bit slow to pick up revs, and puts a lot of water over the rudder making it heavy to steer under power.

My boat is out the water right now (going back in on March 3 and counting the days!) otherwise I'd take you out for a spin if you are r around the S Coast. If you still haven't made a decision on this one in March then give me a shout...


Chris
Click to expand...
Hi Chris, i know this is a very old thread. I just so happen to have recently purchased your old yacht Habendum :)

She's on te hard stand just now and i've not had her in the water yet. So reading this i just wondered if you had resolved the banging issue due to the teflon blocks whilst you had the boat?

Many thanks,

Lee
 
I knew a couple of very good sailor / navigators who took their Seal 28, sometimes with their children, all over the place inc lots of trips to north and south Brittany and twice though the French Canals to Spanish and French ports.

The boat is quite fast and seaworthy, but the original Bukh inboards could really do with replacing by now.

Re the slide assisters in the keelcase, I expect they are like in my boat, Tufnol not Teflon ! So I'd be surprised if they have worn much.

The keel lifting mechanism should be checked like any lift keeler, as should the bolts securing the ballast stub, but I've never heard of problems.

In a perfect world like any lift keeler she should be wintered on high trestles to allow lowering the keel for maintenence on the plate - my friends dug a pit under their boat to do this, which of course instantly filled with water so a bilge pump was necessary.
 
Hi Seajet, thanks for the info! Good to hear, I have two young kids here and plans. A separate cabin for each of them should be very useful at times :)

Luckily it has had a 3YM20 installed in 2007(probably by Chris). Apart from the fact it's had a few leaks on it over the years i think it will serve us well.

When i was looking into buying this boat i came across a post detailing a banging noise. Little did i know at the time since the name has been changed, that this was actually the same boat i as looking at that they were talking about! Small world eh. Hopefully Chris will see this and be able to advise if he solved the problem.

Worst case scenario: She's launched, and bangs under some sailing conditions for a season. I can live with that. The lifting eye and cables will be fine, once the new eye arrives in the post and i install it at least. Very glad i checked that!

Hope you have a great 2020!

Lee
 
Hi Neil, :ROFLMAO: well they'll be sleeping in the v berth for now, until they're both sensible enough to NOT jump in the sea!

Good to know that it should not bang if in good order and fully lowered.

The Mrs fell out with the boat for the first time tonight, since i had time to paint the lifting mechanism twice but didn't empty the dishwasher!

Lee
 
I looked at Habendum before buying Andiamo back in 2001! It seems that sometimes people get the lifting wires a bit short and the keel can never seat itself at the bottom of the slots. You will know, because the winch handle should go slack when the keel is fully down. If you've got a lifting rudder blade - that's a maintenance job that's worth doing, too.
 
And you still have Andiamo, she must be ship shape !!

Looks like we'll still have to be launched before we find out then. Still, should be able to dry out, set up an A-frame again and replace the wires whilst in our drying harbour. Rudder apears not to have a lifting blade. Looks like the lifting blade spape without the fold out bit so hopefully it will perform well enough.

Below is my before and after chart table area if you would like a look, although it still needs work. A bit amateure maybe but practical, it all works and it's much tidier:D I almost wonder what i'll do with myself once everything is finnished. Sail her maybe lol......loooong way away from that anyways.


1578766994685.jpgIMG_20191220_123632_8.jpg

Without meaning to bombard you Neil, can you give any advice on the exhaust at all please? I'm in the process of replacing sections of this due to age related failure.
The transom exhaust seems quite low and perhaps vulnerable to following seas. Currently it runs through the fiberglass boxed in section in the aft cabin and into the starboard cockpit locker, curls arround, up across the top at the height of the seats, through a big bulbous cylindrical rubber, what looks like a one way valve or silencer, through the bulkhead to the engine compartment, down into a waterlock/muffler and of course the engine.
Is the rubber thing necessary to stop following seas washing in or does the shape of the pipe through the locker suffice as a swan neck?

It's a 3YM20 with 52mm outlet, the exhaust i'm removing from the boxed in section is about 48 and has presumably been working fine since 2007. I don't want to reduce the engine life by having too much back pressure, so will put 52mm in if required. I happen to have a section of 48 though, so want to use that if it makes no difference. When i ran the engine, the water from the exhaust was being shot about 10m across the harbour, hence why i think therre may be too much back pressure. The pipe in the "out" side of the rubber thing was also pushed all the way inthough, against the slitted cone inside, so that may have been creating a massive amount of back pressure......

Thanks in advance for any help!

Lee
 
I confess my chart table looks more like your picture 1! The Seal 28 Mk1 had the rudder drop plate - Andiamo is one of these. The Mk 2 had a fixed rudder blade, more outside ballast, and consequently, deeper draft. The drop keel is about 500 lbs compared to 1000 lbs for the Mk 1 boats. The Mk 2 also had the topsides raised by some inches to improve the headroom over the settees. You can tell from the outside - Mk 2 boats have a moulded in cove line missing in the Mk 1's. The rubber thing in the exhaust pipe is an Elastomuffle silencer. When I replaced the exhaust some years ago, I did not bother replacing the silencer. I couldn't tell any difference in the engine noise afterwards! I used a stainless steel right angle bend where the exhaust comes through the bulkhead into the locker to help the pipe lie securely in the corner. I didn't think about water flooding back from the transom. I have not had any problem like that - but then I haven't been out in that sort of weather, either. Maybe, since you have to increase the size of the hose for your Yanmar engine, you could replace the transom outlet and have one with a little flap to keep water from flooding back. Check the bigger hose will fit through behind the inner moulding though!
 
Thanks rgarside, yes that's a good shout. It does seem to be a great resource, and seems quite active! I am enrolled in the forum but have not taken membership, just yet. I think i will now move any Seal specific queries on to the Parker Seal forum, i'd just hoped to catch Chris who actually owned my boat for several years. Not sure whether he'll still frequent at ParkerSeal :)

@Neil, well it is just under renovation, once we have all the dirt and defunct bits and bobs out of there, we can start making our own mess :ROFLMAO:

Lots to take in here, some great information! Looks like we have the Mk 2 version then as the molded cove is present. It makes sense that the keel is only 500lbs. The specs i had read on Yachtsnet said 450kg(1000lbs) but it did not seem that size when we maneuvered it. We potentially have a deeper draft than we thought as well then, which is very good to know!

Elastomuffle removal, stainless elbow installation and exhaust flap all very good ideas and i'm pondering each of them carefully. I've mounted a hot air Eberspacher on the stringer in the starboard cockpit locker so space is a bit tight at the back now. Removing the muffle and adding an elbow would definitely help with space.

I expect the Mk info will be in the handbook I've read about....membership here i come.... once i have some cash

Thanks chaps!!

Lee
 
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