In-mast or in-boom furling

Tethys

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Not that I'm thinking of changing to either any time soon (one day perhaps...) but I am intrigued as to why in-boom furling isn't more popular. It seems to have all the advantages - the extra weight is low down, the sail can be dropped in a jam / emergency and the sail can still have battens. Have I missed something, or is this a VHS / Betamax thing?
 
In boom is not without its problems. Several well respected companies have tried to make them, but most have stopped. Problems are sensitivity to boom angle, getting smooth hauling up and dropping, reefing in a range of conditions. Virtually no builders have fitted them as original equipment whereas inmast is offered by most - and well over 50% of new boats are fitted with it. Says something about the relative attractiveness of the two systems. Barnacle, who posts here might be along soon with his experiences of retrofitting an inboom system.

If you do go the inmast route, avoid the add on units and buy a boat that was fitted with the mast as original. This may limit your choice of boats a bit, but fitting a proper system means a new mast and mainsail which for most boats is uneconomic.
 
If I was building a new boat of at least 45 foot I would go in boom.

Anything smaller and the boom size looks out of proportion.

In boom is now almost standard on new superyachts.
 
I have sailed on a Twister 28 with in boom. Very impressed. Sail sets well even when deep reefed. Raising/ lowering not much harder than a conventional mainsail .

After a few bad experiences with inmast reefing I wouldnt consider it as an option.
 
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I have sailed on a Twister 28 with in boom. Very impressed. Sail sets well even when deep reefed. Raising/ lowering not much harder than a conventional mainsail .

How do you control the luff at the foot of the sail in light winds? When fully deployed, is the sail loose footed?
 
Ghastly kit which you can't get at WHEN it goes wrong ! :rolleyes:In-mast reefing leaves the weight of the sail high up; learn how to reef and fit appropriate gear for ******* sake !
 
I am still using through-mast roller reefing. This is a thoroughly practical and very efficient mainsail reefing system which also allows you to furl your sail neatly and compactly around your boom. Its just not very fashionable!

Neil
 
Neither.

I have just taken of a vertical reefing main system, although it was an add on. The sail seemed flat and without any power. This was with a maxi roach. Clearly once the wind was over 60 degrees it would make little difference and the maxiroach would be the way to go if you want such a system. But why? Slow, hard work to use etc. Just so you don't have to leave the cockpit to hook an eye on to a reefing horn?

The parts should arrive tomorrow to have a normal slab reefing main, yeppie.

Have not had a modern in boom reefing system but had an around boom system with the mechansim through the mast. This actually worked quite well, especially with some old rope laid in the sail to take out some of the baggyness.

Sorry but modern systems all seem gymicy to me and when I can no longer drop in a reef, I am either too old or have the wrong boat.
 
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In-spar storage limits the amount of canvas you can carry (or it jams!)
I had a 39ft with inboom (sailtainer) and the main didn't come anywhere near the upper black band due to this restriction. It was, however, a very powerful sail - fully battened - it was always driving, even when you'd rather have a little less.
Main problem I found was hoisting while maintaining a drag on the roller, and similarly maintaining a reasonable drag on the halliard while rolling in order to avoid uneven stacking and jams. The boom to mast angle is critical and will probably be achieved with a solid kicker which means that the boat tries to self-destruct if the sails ever flog...
The UV protection needs to be maintained or you will hoist head only one day.
I've been negative here but would rather have this system than inmast, because, as mentioned above, if it all goes to rats, you just drop it in the old fashioned way.
One more thing - don't stand in the way of a gybing in-boom rig!
For me, now - Slab - it can be fixed in an emergency, and at my time of life and type of sailing, reefing IS an emergency...
 
Have been using a Sailtainer in-boom system for three years now on big rigged 36ft boat. It was one of the first few made, so looks a bit like a prototype. I was really sceptical at first as I've never had any problems with slab reefing.

But it's been a revelation:
You get to sail with a decent shaped, full height, fully battened mainsail (although not as adjustable as a racing sail).
You can you put all three reefs in without leaving the cockpit.
The mainsail shape with three reefs in still looks fantastic.
There's no chafe or wear between the loaded reefing lines and the already bundled sail. That's great when you're going to be deep reefed for days.
The instant it's lowered, it's also stowed! No sail ties, wrestling with stack-pac zips, faffing with lazy jacks, etc.
The rigid kicker holds the boom at the right, critical angle. Easy to set up at the start of the season if you cut a big plywood 'set-(almost) square' to 87 degrees.

I saw a new version at the boatshow and it was good to see that all the modifications we have tickered with, have been incorporated into the most recent version. I don't think I would ever throw away a perfectly workable slab reef system to 'trade-up' to a Saitainer, but if a secondhand boat had one, I would now see it being a 'plus point' instead of making me run the other way.

And if I could afford a new boat, perhaps I might also be able to afford to spec it with a Sailtainer . . .
 
Not that I'm thinking of changing to either any time soon (one day perhaps...) but I am intrigued as to why in-boom furling isn't more popular. It seems to have all the advantages - the extra weight is low down, the sail can be dropped in a jam / emergency and the sail can still have battens. Have I missed something, or is this a VHS / Betamax thing?

Theoretically, I agree that in-boom is preferable to in-mast reefing, especially so if one is retro-fitting, which is why I opted for a Profurl system for my 31' HR94. I needed a new mainsail anyway and with either a specially cut mainsail is necessary and with in-boom I could also have full length battens.

In the event, it took two years to get everything right with adjustments by the sail maker and using thinner battens but now it works and sets well. However, it still requires a certain technique to reef without creasing or jamming the sail at the gooseneck. The key is to have the boom completely in-line with the wind - any wind in the sail will drive it forward to bunch up against the boom end and jam. I believe this is one point where in-mast is advantageous.

To assist this the Profurl system utilises an articulated luff that is fixed into the original mast luff slot, which does give quite some variation of wind heading. The negative part of this luff guide is that it is prone to inducing friction and a winch is necessary to get the top half of the sail raised.

IMG_3327-01b.jpg

It was only recently that I have had to use the system truly in anger, with a rising wind, rough sea and being (as usual) single handed. I could indeed reef quickly and efficiently from the cockpit, with the mainsail setting well. Turning eventually downwind I could then drop completely and continue with a reefed (furled) headsail.
 
How do you control the luff at the foot of the sail in light winds? When fully deployed, is the sail loose footed?

No it isnt loose footed. I have sailed on the boat 3 or 4 times this year and we have had at least some of the main reefed away each time so cant really answer your question.

I can say that even with half the mainsail stowed it still set very well driving us to windward through steep awkward waves on one occasion. Obviously this is cruising boat kit but I dont think you will lose any performance with it.
 
Old fashioned boom roller reefing.

Largely out of favour as people say you cant get a good set when reefed boom will drop and so on.

Do it right and the sail will set reasonably well. You need to either have some tapered wooden wedges attatched to your boom sides to increase the diameter of the middle of the boom or use something to put in the rolls as you reef to have the same effect.

Traditionally this was towels dirty laundry etc but I have used bits of 2 inch foam pipe lagging to good effect.

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in boom

Our boat had an in boom system fitted from circ 1990. New ones may be ok now but i would never buy after my experiences with this system.
I converted back to fully battened main with good batten cars and it's magic after two years of struggle with the in boom system. Problems from what i remember were, boom angle had to be exactly right else it bunched the sail either end of the roll then you could never get it in the boom, halyard friction had to be just right else the sail came down too fast and you got a loose roll so it wouldn't all fit inside the boom, angle to the wind had to be just right else it bunched again, all in all not a good set of conditions to get 100% right as you try to put the sail away.
 
We have one of the original sailtanor inboom systems(c1990) on a HR352. The gooseneck failed in the first 6 months so we fabricated a s/s version which has lasted ever since. As mentioned before, the boom angle of dangle is critical to maintain an easy hoist and lower. Also the adjustment of the guide bearings at the track lead in is important. As the bolt rope ages there is a higher chance the sail will jump out of the guide bearings. However, for an inspar reefing system you have a great shaped sail which is easily reefed. Not sure I would go to the expense now though, probably go for slab reefing with a stack pack.
 
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