Idiots.

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hlb

hlb

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Loads of you will know about my slight accident last year and the massive bill paid by my insurance co.

The boats out of the water again now and a first report was that my props are very thin. I couldn't quite understand this as they are only a few years old.

It now transpires that there are no anodes on the shafts. o maybe the new shafts are getting knackered as well.

Snags, the boats in Conwy now and the repairs were done in Salcolmbe. I'm 110 miles from the boat and got a nasty bug anyway.

I cant see the twats in Salcolmbe wanting to know, what about the insurance co??
 
Suspect they'll say that it came about as a result of an act of omission by the boatyard, therefore not their problem, but it's probably wise to notify them anyway, in case they feel moved to offer you the services of their lawyers (but see below).

Otherwise it's a question of suing the boatyard. Do you have legal cover as part of M.Farter's insurance?
 
I had an issue with shaft anodes 2 years ago.
You cant really prove that they didnt fit them and they havent dropped off with wear/underwater obstruction.

In my case one had to be removed by a diver, there was a none standard nut and bolt used without a locking washer.

I could prove they had not fitted it right.

As it happened I was lucky and found the fault before any damage was done.

Princess 360 ( I know of at least two the same) are almost the same as yours and have an internal bonding to act as a standby or owners rely on them and dont have shaft anodes at all.

It is easy to take an earth wire from the rear shaft coupling over the nylon plate and onto the gearbox coupling or tie two adjacent shaft coupling nuts together which bonds the shaft and prop back to the engine.

Quick easy DIY job, sorry too late to save your props this time.
 
As Daka says, if you have a good cathodic connection from anodes bolted to hull and to earth, shaft anodes are not required. All you need is a jump across the shaft/gearbox flexi coupling. Job done.
www.clementsmarine.co.uk for all your needs speak to Paul Williams
 
Hi
Thought id throw my two pence in..
Depending on which marina you are in the sacrificial anodes wear at different rates. I have seen some boats eat entire sets of anodes in three months leaving absolutely no trace of their existence.

If the shafts on your boat are not bonded to the other anodes via brushes or some other form of connection then the comparatively small shaft anodes would have had to cope with rather a lot of stress being the only protection for the shafts and props.

With regards to legal action, it would be very difficult, if not impossible to prove that the anodes had never been fitted in the first place.

my advice would be to speak openly with the boatyard and see if you can come to some sort of agreement.
 
Hmm. There were two sets of anodes on both shafts and rope cutters, only a few months before the....... accident. Theres F all on now. But either way, they had both engines and everything else out. So they have left it totally unprotected.
 
I think your first port of call should be with your Insurance Company as the repair contract was between them and the repairer. In any event, if the incident was last year chances are the repairs were carried out less than 12 months ago so should still be under guarantee assuming the repairer to be reputable. Does he belong to any professional body? They can maybe bring some pressure to bear if the repairer doesn't want to play ball. In any event I'd have thought you can prove some negligence on their part so there's always the legal route, messy though, depends if it's worth the hassle. Trading Standards is always a good bet!
The distance shouldn't have any bearing, they have the option of sending someone up or paying someone local to sort it.
Good luck /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
I think your first port of call should be with your Insurance Company as the repair contract was between them and the repairer.

[/ QUOTE ]

Not necessarily, I would have expected the repair contract to be between the owner and the repairer.

All Marine Insurers tend to do is to agree costs.
Policy holder authorises the repair and pays , then gets reimbursed by Insurers.

Sometimes the Insurers can pay the repairers direct but usually in my experience the actual authorisation to proceed is between the Policy Holder and the repairer (after the Insurers agree costs).

It is unusual for the Insurers to agree to pay for consumables such as

anodes and anti foul (repairers may automatically fit new ones and as long as they are not mentioned or noticed on the invoice they may be included in error)

I suspect the original shafts were bonded which allows shaft anodes to last 12-18 months.

I suspect the new shafts were not bonded, in which case shaft anodes can fizz away in no time and fall off after 3 months ( if they were ever fitted).

Anyone having Insurance work done needs to ask the questions about anodes and anti foul.

When my corniche was lifted for £4000 leg repair I paid for anodes and 50% of one side of gators.

In effect I had a full leg service for a few pounds, if I hadn't asked the right questions my legs would have been reassembled with used anodes and one side used gators.
 
my understanding which may not be a lot is this..
Anodes wear at different rates depending on whats happening around you, this makes it very difficult to blame the engineers or the insurance company. A wise old man said to me once, check your anodes every 6 months the damage is always done between the 6 and 12 month period. He then went onto expalin about potentials and voltages soft and hard metals but in essence if your boat has the lowest relative voltage in the whole marina it will act as the anode for your neighbours. So if you have a galvanic isolator fitted and an earth leak of below 1.2volts (galvanic isolators have a health and safety working limit of 1.2 volts so the marina will earth out the trip if you get a belt of something on board) then your boat is an anode for your fellow boaters. If you have or dont have a galvanic isolator and you leak above 1.2volts your anodes will last longer, as long as your nieghbours boat has a lower potential. The reason anodes can wear faster if you plug into shore power is because you then become hard wired to your neighbours boats, house boats, steel boats wiring the whole pontoon etc. So with all these variables its very difficlut to prove who is right and who is wrong, some insurers may accept it if the owner is 100% neglegent i.e doesnt have a clue but if they get a whiff of shifting blame they will. My advice, for what its worth check your anodes every 6 months or your taking a chance..
 
[ QUOTE ]
Not necessarily, I would have expected the repair contract to be between the owner and the repairer.

All Marine Insurers tend to do is to agree costs.
Policy holder authorises the repair and pays , then gets reimbursed by Insurers.

Sometimes the Insurers can pay the repairers direct but usually in my experience the actual authorisation to proceed is between the Policy Holder and the repairer (after the Insurers agree costs).

[/ QUOTE ]

Maybe so, my experience is mainly with Motor/Household. However, at the very least the repairer should've brought it to HLB's attention that there was no protection, they can't assume every boat owner is as experienced and knowledgeable as many forum members are. Also,there is the matter of the rope cutters which appear to have gone missing!
 
I've got internal bonding. But a good few years ago, I managed to go a year with no anodes on the shafts. Finished up having to have new shafts and props.

There were even comments today from the bods in Conwy, about not needing anodes. Anyway I insisted that they put them on.

Also talked to the surveyer who examined the boat last year. He's getting back to me next week when he's looked at his notes and pictures.
 
evening all , ihave the same ship as hlb and have no shaft anodes at all shaft and props seem to be fine , should i worry?
 
[ QUOTE ]
evening all , ihave the same ship as hlb and have no shaft anodes at all shaft and props seem to be fine , should i worry?

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes but only if there's no bonding over the flexible coupling.
 
Well I can only tell you this. The boat was always serviced by some proper bods in Plymouth. Then I finished up, up the Severn one winter and a local car sprayer bod did the anti fouling. Back at Plymouth next year, they said ARRG! no prop shaft anodes. Props and prop shafts pitted. So then after new props and shafts, it got anodes, the year after it got two sets of anodes on the prop shafts cos they were not lasting all year. So no anodes this year and the props seem to be wearing. Is it worth it for 20 quid or so, to make sure there protected.
 
Yep, that's what I did using the stuff with thickish copper strands. Should only take a few minutes loosening a few nuts and then retightening them again. Just make sure the wire is tight to the coupling and can't catch anything when the shaft spins. A few pence spent on the wire could save £00s in corrosion to props/shafts.

Note to hlb, this is a bit gardeners question time ish but you started it!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]


Note to hlb, this is a bit gardeners question time ish but you started it!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

That thought had crossed my mind too /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
HLB has had shaft boats a long time , many owners will not fit shaft anodes due to the problems they cause.

I needed a diver down to mine two years ago after one had slipped down to rub against the P Bracket.

By fluke I was spear fishing in studland and I found it before it did any damage.

I would think maybe 30% say no shaft anodes
30% say they are a must
and 40% dont know what they are.
 
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