I need a hookah!

M

Marsupial

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I 've just completed my PADI openwater cert so I can feel a bit competent to go under the boat and change anodes and cut nets off the stern gear. I dont want to carry cylinders, the hookah systems look good BUT I bet some are better than others. Does anyone have a idea on what maker's offering is best? I have 220Volt AC and 12V DC on board.

Cheers
 
If you've not already done so have a look at the thread i started a few days ago 'clearing a fouled prop' A Hookah was one suggested solution and they do look good. Let me know what you find.
 
I am also starting to think that the Hookah system is probably the best.

Please let me know if you find any thing of value.

Mant thanks

Simes
 
I got one similar to this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Gulfstream-Thomas-...%3A1%7C294%3A50

last year and I have used it for several sessions to clean the hull so far this year so its already saved me the price of a lift out. The price is not bad even when youve paid for shipping and vat. I have a generator that gives 240v so I bought a step down transformer you can get them from builders merchants or screwfix or even B and Q
 
Hookhas feedback

afgter a long wait and lots of abandonned transactions I have now put together a hookha system that works.

I have a 240v genny installed so I wanted a 240v compressor.

The Makita AC640 fits the bill, provides more air than required by one diver, has a 6 ltr tank and fully adjustable supply pressure. £140.00 inc VAT

Hose and regulator and harness from Hookamax in USA £136.00 ex vat

so around £300.00 for the hookha system

Bought a BCD from Ebay £67.00 - hookamax system has a tee piece that fits the hose.

Spent the afternoon breathing through the regulator via the compressor - before I dip in the oggin!

Problems were finding a vendor in the USA who was willing to sell into the UK, and finding a UK supplier who had the compressor they were advertising. UK dive shops were not able to supply a second stage regulator that was set up for 65 psi input. Hookamax were great, not only did they supply the bits - very quickly; but also reassured me that my compressor would exceed the spec.

Look out anodes here I come!
 
If you do a search there's a few threads where these have benn discussed at length. Personally I'd carry a cylinder but dependes whether refills are readily available or not...
 
Cleaning the bottom with dive gear doesn't take long so a small tank could be a compromise that takes up less space. Having visited fifteen countries I've never been anywhere that you can't get dive tanks filled.

If you need to clear a prop at sea I know a number of people who have used dive gear to do it but never heard of anyone using a Hookah.
 
KellysEye said:
Cleaning the bottom with dive gear doesn't take long so a small tank could be a compromise that takes up less space. Having visited fifteen countries I've never been anywhere that you can't get dive tanks filled.

If you need to clear a prop at sea I know a number of people who have used dive gear to do it but never heard of anyone using a Hookah.
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I think its true to say that there's diving and boat maintenance, the hookah systems were developed (as far as I know) at the outset for boat hull maintenance and in this role they excel. As for going deep without a secondary air supply, you can count me out! but I did do an ascent from 15 mtrs with the tank turned off and no buddy around in my PADDI course (yes I know the instructor was behind me) but you get the idea.
 
Marsupial said:
...I did do an ascent from 15 mtrs with the tank turned off and no buddy around in my PADDI course (yes I know the instructor was behind me) but you get the idea.
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I hope you didn't! Your CESA (controlled emergency swimming ascent), part of your PADI open water course, should be done from 6-9 metres deep with the tank still on and the instructor looking you in the eyes! (I am a PADI instructor)...:D
 
djbreeze said:
I hope you didn't! Your CESA (controlled emergency swimming ascent), part of your PADI open water course, should be done from 6-9 metres deep with the tank still on and the instructor looking you in the eyes! (I am a PADI instructor)...:D
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no I rememeber clearly, the tank was OFF, the water was murky and cold, vis was about 6 mtrs - its not the sort of thing one would forget is it!!!! and no the instructor was not in my line of sight, I was told before the dive that the air supply would stop during the dive and I was to make my way to the surface, it did so surface is what I did.
 
How about a SWEBA?

Have a look for a SWEBA (shallow water emergency breathing apparatus). Basically a bag that a mate on deck keeps pressurized with a dinghy type pump. A 5 metre pipe then leads down to a simple demand valve in your gob. Works well for anodes and props although it takes a little practice to use as it takes a few seconds for the systems to accommodate changes in depth. If you go deeper, your mate has to add a bit more pressure, if you go shallower, you are surrounded by bubbles as the systems vents the excess pressure around your mouth. Works well enough though for 20-30 minute dives. The limiting factor tend to be the exhaustion of the mate on deck as it can be hard work pumping air down to 2-3 metres!

They were a UK product but not sure they are made any more but we picked ours up for £50 on Ebay.

Angus
 
Please be careful !

M. Your Hooka, small compressor idea sounds good in theory but Im concerned about the air quaility that you will be breathing. As its a compressor designed for driving air tools, there will be little or no air filtration and I'd suggest that there is a real risk that you will be breathing air that contains slight traces of lubricating oil !!

You will be breathing an even worse cocktail if you dont ensure that your generator engine exhaust is downwind from the compressor inlet !!

I have a small cylinder and regulator for hull maintenance and, as another poster said, never had a big problem getting it filled. That said, you usually cant see what goes on behind the counter in the compresor rooms of most dive shops, and I have had one or two bad fills over the years. The result is usually the most blinding headache afterwards. - So no system is perfect. - Take care/have fun
 
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Marsupial said:
no I rememeber clearly, the tank was OFF, the water was murky and cold, vis was about 6 mtrs - its not the sort of thing one would forget is it!!!! and no the instructor was not in my line of sight, I was told before the dive that the air supply would stop during the dive and I was to make my way to the surface, it did so surface is what I did.
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Well I agree that it's not the sort of thing you'd forget but what you describe is not part of any PADI recreational diving course. Your instructor sounds like he was making it up as he went along...:(
 
Agreed, and thats why hookamax were so good, they told me what to do with the "oilfree" makita to ensure the air would be oil free, also the Makita does have a filter on it as standard, certainly the air quality is not bad but point taken that you must ensure it wont digest anything nasty like engine exhaust etc. I plan to run the compressor below decks with the hose out through a port and secured to the guard rail, its 100 ft long and the boat is 43ft with a 2mtr keel, one side at a time COULD be safe? ish. Believe me, we dont do hero, so if I am not satisifed I stand a chance of getting back alive I wont be going in.
 
djbreeze said:
Well I agree that it's not the sort of thing you'd forget but what you describe is not part of any PADI recreational diving course. Your instructor sounds like he was making it up as he went along...:(
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No I dont think so, could be something to do with the fact it was military?? perhaps.
 
I bought one from the USA, but a bit expensive. It runs 12v 8amps and if fine for all the underwater tasks like anodes and cleaning (though in the Adriatic, it is a bit warmer there).
When I researched this product I found that it was a vacuum pump running backwards but oilless, which would be one concern I would have. So, be careful using a normal compressor.
 
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