hydraulics

[toastie]

I have a Prout catamaran with hydraulic steering to the rudders. The steering of the saildrive is presently controlled by a mechanical lever. Would it be possible to use the wheel to control the rudders and the saildrive angle at the same time? When under sail the saildrive is in the lifted position and must be easily and quickly disconnected from the hydraulics. Is this a first DIY job or do I need a 'proper person'?
Many thanks.

 

[TheBoatman]

You didn't say if the hydraulics are run by a powered pump or from a hand "steering" pump.

It could be done with a little maths to work out the piston size and travel and a couple of cocks in the line to set up a bypass when the sail drive was lifted.

The first problem to solve is "how can you fit the sail drive piston so that it works in both modes - up & down". Once you've solved that question the rest is reasonably easy.

Peter.

 

[Bob_Ranft]

Re: hydraulics [toastie]

Morning toastie. Patrick Boyd Multihulls used to be the agents for the Gemini range of catamarans imported from the States. Just checked the PBM web site but there appears to be no current mention of the Gemini cats, so maybe they are no longer agents. The Gemini cats have hydraulic steering, and the Sillette outdrive leg is connected / linked to the steering so the leg turns with the rudders. Both the rudders and the leg are retractable on this cat. Not sure if the link to the outdrive is hydraulic or a string and pulley arrangement.

If you contact PBM maybe they will tell you where a Gemini is parked up so you can have a quick look see.

info@multihulls.co.uk Tel: 01329 288 257

Was thinking of doing the same on my cat, but decided against this to keep the lever operated leg completely separate as an emergency steering device. During close quarter parking situations, there are many occasions where we just leave the rudders midships and shunt the boat about with the outdrive only.

Best of luck

 

[Birdseye]

This is / was a standard extra that you could buy from Sillette. Never bothered myself as it seemed the easiest thing in the world to operate the tipstaff for the drive leg with your foot.

What was worthwhile was replacing the original Prout steering pump with one which gave much higher gearing. Available from Vetus.

 

[wanderlust]

Why would you want to? In harbour, when turning the boat in a confined space, I put the rudders straight and use just the engine control and drive leg control. You dont need the wheel. Rudders do little at very low speeds and even less when the prop wash is not washing over them as is the case with the Prouts central prop position. The technique that works for me for turning her around is to make sure you are going forward when you throw it into reverse with the drive leg over to one side. This has the effect of spinning her on the spot. With a bit of practise you would be suprised how effective it is. All without the wheel!

 

[boatmike]

This has in fact been tried several ways in the past. It results usually in an over complicated arrangement that really isn't worth the trouble. As someone else said it does also provide a kind of independent steering in case of rudder failure too the way it is. The morse lever control is not ideal however and can decide to move on it's own I find. I was personally thinking of replacing it with something else but have never really thought up anything better. Anyone got one that stays where you put it? Mine is lashed in the central position when at sea to stop it moving...

 

[Bob_Ranft]

Re: hydraulics[Re: Boatmike]

Sillette make, or used to make an operating lever that has a locking / tensioning screw fitted to the shaft. Bought one from their stand at the Excell boat show 2006. Still to be fitted.

One Prout I had on charter used a piece of stainless steel angle hinged to the steering bulkhead behind the lever. A notch had been cut in the angle which locked around the lever in the midships position. It was tensioned by a length of shockcord. Soon became second nature to flip it up with your foot before moving the leg over.

I also find the standard Prout hydraulic set up to be too low geared. Six turns lock to lock at present. New Vetus helm pump and cylinder to be fitted when I get back, hopefully this will bring it down to approximately three turns lock to lock.

 

[boatmike]

Re: hydraulics[Re: Boatmike]

Actually the hinged stainless steel thing is a good idea and could well be developed.. I have seen Sillettes thing but it's expensive and I thought the friction required to stop it moving would make it stiff to operate. You could achieve the same by drilling and tapping a grubscrew into the existing one perhaps? The important thing is when you return it to central it stays there without fiddling so maybe something like that will work.... Thanks Bob!

 

[Bob_Ranft]

Re: hydraulics[Re: Boatmike]

The original fitting could easily be drilled and tapped. Only bought a new one because the original lever unit had been fitted back to front. When we pushed the lever to port the boat went to starboard, which was the opposite of all Prout cats previously chartered.

Should have been easy to dismantle to turn the unit round, but due to electrolysis the lever had to be cut off the shaft. Supplied by Sillette, but think the fitting is manufactured by Morse.

 

[boatmike]

Re: hydraulics[Re: Boatmike]

Yes that's right Bob, Morse added the friction control thing some time ago actually but it was after I bought mine (I built my Snowgoose 37 myself) I still wonder if it will stop the lever wandering to one side due to prop effect though unless the friction is done way up tight. As you needed a new one anyway it doesn't matter does it? Having the cables reversed sounds as if it would concentrate the mind a bit though! Hope it works for you OK with the friction thing.. I am still thinking about the hinged stop.... sounds good. If your friction control does not do it perhaps we might both need one!
Mike

 

[Birdseye]

Re: hydraulics[Re: Boatmike]

[ QUOTE ]
I still wonder if it will stop the lever wandering to one side due to prop effect though unless the friction is done way up tight.

[/ QUOTE ]

never had that problem. In fact, the previous owner of my boat had the reverse problem which he solved by doubling the length of the tipsaff!

If you do find it too loose, replace the nylon bushes on the lever (at the top of the leg) which turns the leg left or right. Rotten English but I hope you can understand what I'm trying to say.

 

[Bob_Ranft]

Re: hydraulics[Re: Boatmike]

It's a pity that I had to destroy the original unit to get it off in order to turn it around. Was going to buy a new standard fitting, but offered the one with the tensioner for a few bob more. Basically did not have a problem with the leg moving about, even though it was / is light to operate.

The cats I've had on charter were a mixed bag, some legs stayed put, others had a mind of their own. In all cases they were easy to operate. Not as though the ones that stayed put were sized up or stiff to move.

As birdseye has mentioned, maybe the nylon bushes need checking out.

The reversed steering did cause a comedy of errors, first time we moved the boat it was like a cross between the Key Stone Cops and Benny Hill. How we never rammed someone I'll never know. Wheel to the right - foot to the left.... I think.