How to remove snapped bronze screws ??? (in a hole)

  • Thread starter Thread starter zak
  • Start date Start date
Z

zak

New Member
Joined
12 Oct 2005
Messages
19
Location
Essex
Visit site
Hi,

I need to remove a large number of snapped off silicon bronze screws in a teak deck on a wooden boat. Anyone have any tips that might help. The screws are 10g x 2 inch and snapped approximately at the top of the thread. They are in a 10mm plug hole.

I have heard of unscrew ums which may do it but I cant see them for sale in the uk anywhere.

(please see my other related thread http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...ing-thin-deck-plugs-and-stubborn-screws/page2 )

rgds
 
zak said:
Hi,

I need to remove a large number of snapped off silicon bronze screws in a teak deck on a wooden boat. Anyone have any tips that might help. The screws are 10g x 2 inch and snapped approximately at the top of the thread. They are in a 10mm plug hole.

I have heard of unscrew ums which may do it but I cant see them for sale in the uk anywhere.

(please see my other related thread http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...ing-thin-deck-plugs-and-stubborn-screws/page2 )

rgds
Click to expand...

"Screw extractors" are what you are thinking of perhaps.

Perhaps not .... these are what you are looking for ?? http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/attachment.php?attachmentid=7636&d=1297907678
 
Last edited:
You can try a stud extractor for a sheared bolt, it might work, but probably won't. Your best bet is to drill it out.

As for a screw, you could use a plug cutter to drill it out.
 
For a bolt a normal LH threaded screw extractor or "EZ out" would do Easy to break the small ones ... then you are really stuffed.
 
Thanks all. Apparently the unscrew ums type grab hold of the outside of the screw anyone know where to get those ones??

Also I've heard of something like a long hole saw to cut the wood around the screw, you then plug and glue the hole. Anyone see them, know wher to get them??
 
zak said:
Also I've heard of something like a long hole saw to cut the wood around the screw, you then plug and glue the hole. Anyone see them, know wher to get them??
Click to expand...

I think you're in danger of alienating helpful posters on here - parsifal posted full details of these in post #3 of your other thread. Surely the least you can do is take the trouble to read the replies to your own threads!
 
pvb said:
I think you're in danger of alienating helpful posters on here - parsifal posted full details of these in post #3 of your other thread. Surely the least you can do is take the trouble to read the replies to your own threads!
Click to expand...

Certainly not wishing to alienate anyone, I am very grateful for all the helpful replies that people have given. I did include a link to my other thread including parsifals post right here at the start of this one, wasn't that OK?? I'm not trying to steal any credit here, just desperately seeking some advice from others experience.

If I could get them or similar in the uk instead of the US that would be even better, that was the intention of my last post which had a link for a completely different product to parsifals excellent suggestion.
 
Last edited:
To remove no.10 screws cut some teeth in the end of a 5mm roll pin with a dremel cutting disc. Put the roll pin in a battery drill and run it anti clockwise at a very slow speed.
 
My weapon of choice for this is a set of left handed drill bits.
Not always easy to find in the UK, but Machine Mart used to do a set of extractors that were like a left handed drill without the helical flutes if that's any help.
 
lw395 said:
My weapon of choice for this is a set of left handed drill bits.
Not always easy to find in the UK, but Machine Mart used to do a set of extractors that were like a left handed drill without the helical flutes if that's any help.
Click to expand...
Easy source, but quite expensive:- You can still buy a snap-on kit consisting of left-hand drill bits and stud extractors. The lh bits are important so that you don't tighten the snapped bolt before you try to remove it. I would imagine that there are cheaper sources available though...
 
bignick said:
Easy source, but quite expensive:- You can still buy a snap-on kit consisting of left-hand drill bits and stud extractors. The lh bits are important so that you don't tighten the snapped bolt before you try to remove it. I would imagine that there are cheaper sources available though...
Click to expand...

Mine came from the US.
At one time at work, we were routinely taking apart stuff held together by dozens of CSK pozi M4's. All loctited in. The LH bits grab in the head and break the bond.
Often works on corroded screws too without the need to reach for the easy-outs.
In wood, the heat from drilling will help too.
 
I'm just going down to the shed to fabricate a screwdriver bit to fit over the end of a 100watt soldering iron - in use I envisage reverting to a normal driver once the first movement takes place. Previous owners sanded my deck down so far it looks like the sole of a tackity boot, so there's a lot to be done and I want to re-use the screws.
 
lw395 said:
My weapon of choice for this is a set of left handed drill bits.
Not always easy to find in the UK, but Machine Mart used to do a set of extractors that were like a left handed drill without the helical flutes if that's any help.
Click to expand...

that's the tool for the job! left handed drill bits - use a dremel burr to make a dimple in the broken screw to start it off.

google "left handed drill bits" and you will find some in the UK.
 
Billjratt said:
I'm just going down to the shed to fabricate a screwdriver bit to fit over the end of a 100watt soldering iron - in use I envisage reverting to a normal driver once the first movement takes place. Previous owners sanded my deck down so far it looks like the sole of a tackity boot, so there's a lot to be done and I want to re-use the screws.
Click to expand...

An old screwdriver and a blowlamp is another option.
Or even a hot air gun to heat the screwdriver.
I have several soldering irons, but not (yet) one that I would expect to survive being used to undo tight screws. The weller ones I have, the bits can rotate.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top