How to remove rusted stanchions?

[AndrewB]

My 1" diameter galvanised stanchions have rusted completely solid in their mild steel sockets. How can I best remove them, destructively if necessary, in order to de-rust the sockets and fit replacements?

The sockets are about 2" deep and are welded onto the deck. I want to leave them intact. (The stanchions were originally held in with a split pin running horizontal through the socket. That too is firmly rusted in, but could be drilled out).

 

[richardandtracy]

You've got a right pig of a problem there.

As you want to keep the socket intact, I'd suggest:-
1) Cutting the stanchion off about 6mm above the level of the top of the socket with an angle grinder.
2) Then, using a metal cutting blade on a jigsaw, cut two vertical slots in the remaining bit of stanchion, one diagonally opposite the other. Don't cut into the socket. This will be slow going and may break several blades. Lubricant/ coolant may be necessary.
3) Then, with a steel drift and a club hammer, try to split the two stanchion halves in the socket by hitting the 6mm protrusion to one side of the saw cut. Don't hit both sides of the cut at the same time - you want to tear the steel if possible. When separate, it should be possible to remove the bits from the socket.

Good luck!
Regards

Richard

 

[stubate]

they dont like cold steel up \'em

not a drift !! a nice sharp cold chisel !!
go thru mild steel like hot knife thru butter.
when i was working down pit a nice lump hammer and cold chisel would cut thru panzer chain nuts like nobodies biz, us apprentices used to have competitions to see who could cut thru the 3/4" nuts in the least hits.
stu

 

[kingfisher]

Brute force

1)Drill out split pins

2) Apply massive amounts of de-rust (WD40/coca-cola/others)

3)Drill hole through stanchion, close to base. Insert steel rod (concrete iron). Twist. You should be able, through leverage to put several hundred pounds of power on the twist.

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[Gordonmc]

If you have access to welding kit fix a length of bar to the stanchions to form a "T".
You will have to grind off the zinc first. Heat the base with the torch (after clearing flammable material from below the steel deck).
Use the T bar to twist the stanchion out.
If no welding kit lash a scaffold pole tight to the stanchion fairly low and use it as a lever, making sure the downward pressure of the fulcrum is spread as far as possible. Heat the base.

 

[AndrewB]

Many thanks for the suggestions.

I've tried twisting out two stanchions by drilling a through hole just above the socket, and inserting a wrecker bar. But the metal of the stanchion gives way before they release.

Thanks for the other suggestions though, which I'll try asap.

 

[Guest]

Plus-gas?

Plus-gas?

 

[richardandtracy]

Re: they dont like cold steel up \'em

I've never had too much sucess with cold chisel cutting. Maybe I'm not sharpening them enough. I suggested a drift to bend the stanchion below the level of the top of the socket - which might be difficult with a sharp chisel before you cut through.

Regards

Richard

 

[castaway]

Why dont you chop em of flush with the top of the base, then drill down the remaining stubs about 5 or 6 times around the circumference, lash on same plus gas for luck then get yr mates best big screw driver and (gently) tap it down between the remaning sections of the stanchion and the base. Should peal them in.
Similar to the jig saw method but much easier/safer/less damage etc.

Regds Nick

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[lauradee]

ahh but your not an ex pit fitter !!steel up \'em

know what you are saying, but judicious strike vertically down with SHARP chisel, then turn chisel to slight angle and away you go, the chisel cuts and wedges the bit away from the socket.
and dont hit your thumb either!!
stu

 

[Iota]

Re: Plus-gas?

Plus gas fed over a period of time then lots of vibration via a hammer to the stanchion as per the other posts bar through the stanchion etc. loads of patience and a good result.


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