How to reef a mainsail?

Colvic Watson

Well-known member
Joined
23 Nov 2004
Messages
10,891
Location
Norfolk
Visit site
I learnt to sail keelboats when mainsails were roller reefed on the boom and we had to have some inventive ways of fixing the kicker back then - so excuse my ignorance on this question.

What do I need to do to install a simple cockpit based reefing system for my mainsail. I want to be able to do the reefing from the cockpit so it's easier singlehanded /shorthanded. We looked at some yachts in the marina today that had what I think are called lazyjacks and some had something that looked like what I think is called a stackpack. Also a number had ropes leading from the mast to the cockpit through jam cleats that were labled 'reef one' and 'reef two'. Am I right in thinking that these haul the main down to the reef point whilst you simultaneously lower the main halyard - is this what 'single line reefing' is called? I guess the main is then collected between the lazyjacks?. How do you stop the lowered portion of the main billowing about in the strong wind?

Help and pointers to web articles or pictures much appreciated. Any modifications would be to a masthead sloop Macwester 28 with a 2 reef (slab reefing) mainsail.

Thanks!
 

oldsaltoz

New member
Joined
4 Jul 2001
Messages
6,005
Location
Australia, East coast.
Visit site
G'day Simon,

First of all the lazy jacks have nothing to do with reefing the main, they are only used when lowering the main and prevent it falling all over the deck.

Slab reefing is what you are talking about; have a look at the inner end of the mainsail boom (the goosneck) you should see a fixed hook that is put through the cringle (reinforced hole) on the mainsail luff.

The outer end of the mainsail boom should have an arrangement to pull the leach and foot of the main down and out, there are a few types but they all aim at pulling down and out.

The method is: Head to wind and lower the main till the hook at the goosneck can be inserted, then pull the main back up and tighten, staying head to wind, pull on the outer end of the boom to tension the leach.

I hope this helps

Avagoodweekend.
 

macca

New member
Joined
10 Jan 2005
Messages
28
Location
Queensland
Visit site
The "Reef 1" and "Reef 2" lines work like this with the usual variations: Bowline round boom directly below the reefing cringles in the leech. Up, through the cringle and then to a sheave in the end of the boom (so you have 3 sheaves, 1 for outhaul, 2 for reefing). Through to forward end of boom, out through sheaves to blocks attached on deck or attached to mast at deck level, then back to cockpit to clutches. When these lines are tightened, the pull is approx 45 degrees, so that the line acts as a downhaul and outhaul.

The reefing cringles in the luff hook under either reefing hooks on the boom, or to a hook on the Cunningham, in which case the Cunningham has two purposes.

Provided your sail is fully battened, and the lazy jacks are tight, the reefed part should not flap about. If you don't have lazy jacks or your sail is not fully battened, you can still run light line through your reef points to tidy up the sail.
 

William_H

Well-known member
Joined
28 Jul 2003
Messages
14,031
Location
West Australia
Visit site
I have seen the luff hook on many boats and I find they are good for cunningham tensioning of the luff but not good for reefing. the only way to use it is to put several turns of rope around the mast through the eyelet to pull it forward to the mast.
When you reef you have strong winds which requires a flat sale. It must be tight up the luff and also along the foot. The standard reefing line at the clew pulls the eyelet and sail down to the boom and also out to stretch the foot. That is fine however the pulling out along the boom rather than stretch the foot tends to pull the luff away from the mast. The bolt rope in the track is not normally functioning so near the gooseneck and if it is will usually pull out of the track. The hook described only pulls the sail down not forward. The hook tackle needs to pull forward as much as down ie 45 degrees to the vertical.
I use a rope permanently through the front reefing eyelet (tack) which runs from a saddle on the side of the mast below and forward of the gooseneck this runs then to another saddle or pulley on the other side again forward and below the gooseneck. it then runs down to a turning block and aft to the cockpit and winch. So when reefed the eyelet is pulled forward to the mast track and down to the gooseneck by one rope doubled at 45 degrees to the mast vertical. Similarly at the clew aft end of the boom I use a rope which goes from a saddle on the side of the boom through the reefing clew eyelet down to a pulley on the side of the boom and forward to another turning block under the gooseneck down to the deck to another turning block back to cockpit winch. The position of this pulley and rope attachment dictates the amount of outward stretch of the foot and should result in about 45 degree angle to the boom ie equal stretch and pull down. The tail of the rope is sometimes taken around the boom to tie on to the pulley and the pulley is sometimes on an adjustable track to set position correctly and to allow it to be used for deeper reefs. note you could use a rope up to the eyelet without returning it however this means you miss out on a 2:1 purchase and can pull the sail off to one side.
A single line reefing system combines these two ropes but is not worth having as two ropes are no problem and you can get more power on each.
To reef then I drop the main halyard about half the amount the reef will need. This lets the boom droop but not too much then pull in the clew aft reefing line as much as you can. Pull the forward reefing line down as far as you can then again let out more halyard. If you judge it correctly you can then tension up the tack front reefing line until the tack eyelet is snug against the mast and boom and the luff is tight. (if the luff is not tight enough pull up the halyard) Tension up the aft reefing line until the foot is stretched and the eyelet is near the boom. Remember this reef line has to bear the force of the mainsheet pulling down against it.
You will find now there is a fold of sail hanging down from the boom. You can actually sail happily with it dangling however if it is convenient and you wish it can be tied up with bits of light rope. The sailmaker has hopefully put is several eyelets in the sail through which the rope passes and is tied around the boom and the flap mof sail. The front eyelet should be about 15 cms from the luff and is perhaps the most important because the wind from the front tends to billow in this part of the loose sail flap. Several more toward the aft end of the boom makes it even more tidy. But most important these ties have no role in pulling down the sail to the boom. That must be done only by the exteme end eyelets luff(clew) and tack.
I find using this method while racing I can reef without luffing up and continue driving forward on the jib about 50 degrees off the wind with minimal distance lost on the opposition. Note you don't need a topping lift even. good luck will
 

charles_reed

Active member
Joined
29 Jun 2001
Messages
10,413
Location
Home Shropshire 6/12; boat Greece 6/12
Visit site
Don't confuse stakpaks/lazy jacks with what you want to do, single line reefing.

If you look on the Harken site they show a good method of fitting single line reefing for up to about 40m2 sail.

I fitted it as a 4th reef and over the last 3 years it's proved extremely good.

Most conventional wisdom is that single-line reefing is unfeasible due to frictional resistance - however harken are offering it using their Airlite 40 blocks and Rutgerson are also providing batten-ends which offer it.

Whilst about it I would strongly recommend considering a fully battened main - any conventional main will need recutting for battening but a half-good sailmaker can usually do that.
Drive, sail life, ease of handling and reduction in heeling force are all improved.
 

gianenrico

Member
Joined
12 Dec 2003
Messages
510
Location
Northern Tyrrenian sea
Visit site
May I suggest the use of a less extensible rope in order to manage "reef 1" and "reef 2"? As it will dangle from the mainsail when sailing without reefs taken, the advantage of a rope with a Kevlar core is ess windage as the diameter can be smaller and a very rigid set up at both ends of the mainsail foot.
Ciao
 
Top