How to re-run/overhaul Single Line Reefing?

peter2407

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I have an in-boom single line reefing system. Last season, the 2nd reef line at the cringle end snapped, and just after the 1st reef line at the cringle end got stuck somewhere in the boom, so I ended up cutting the line at the cringle end. So, I think it is time to overhaul and then fix the setup. What would the group recommend re - replace or wash lines; wash and lube; mousing etc?
 

SHUG

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Declare war on friction!!!!
Some Forumites have reported a significant improvement in single reefing line performance from changing the lines to Dyneema , Spectra or whatever non-stretch rope. You can use a smaller diameter and that seems to cut down friction. Silicone (or Teflon) lubrication of all the moving partsd will also help.
My experience is that it is quite good for taking in a reef but a real pest when shaking the reef out....mainly because of friction.
 

Bav32

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Agree with Shug re friction and how to resolve.
Mine is a Selden boom which has the sliding cars fitted with push in nylon rollers which can fall out and add considerably to the drag especially when shaking out a reef.
They fall out mainly because the s/s plates that the sheaves are fitted on are quite a loose fit inside the section and can move up and down allowing the rollers to drop out.
Solution seems to be to straighten out a bit of the bend put into the plate giving the effect of making the plate "taller" thereby reducing the wiggle and stopping the rollers coming out.
Probably best to do this ashore as the rollers are easy to drop and seem magically attracted to cockpit drains etc.
 

knuterikt

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I have an in-boom single line reefing system. Last season, the 2nd reef line at the cringle end snapped, and just after the 1st reef line at the cringle end got stuck somewhere in the boom, so I ended up cutting the line at the cringle end. So, I think it is time to overhaul and then fix the setup. What would the group recommend re - replace or wash lines; wash and lube; mousing etc?

How old is the existing ropes?
Why did the 2nd reef line snapp - could this have been avoided?
Why did the 1st reef line get stuck - could this have been avoided?
What kind of boom/reef system is it?
 

charles_reed

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I have an in-boom single line reefing system. Last season, the 2nd reef line at the cringle end snapped, and just after the 1st reef line at the cringle end got stuck somewhere in the boom, so I ended up cutting the line at the cringle end. So, I think it is time to overhaul and then fix the setup. What would the group recommend re - replace or wash lines; wash and lube; mousing etc?
I have 4 reefs on my main of which 2 are single-line. Both are in 8mm dyneema/spectra.

One of the single-line reefs is in-boom with two standard plain bearing blocks in a total of 7 blocks the other uses Harken Carbo-40 (ultra-low-friction) blocks throughout.

The in-boom reef requires about 60% greater effort.

With conventional 10mm cordage the system was almost impossible to use.

I would suggest you change to Dyneema/Spectra of the smallest cross-section your clutches will grip (there's no problem with strength) and replace all the blocks with either the Harken or Ronstan carbon-reinforced ball-bearing blocks.
 

Seajet

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I agree with the comments re. friction, an arch enemy to single line systems; if at all possible ball bearing blocks must be the way to go.

A tip for running messengers, I find a small nut ( as in M6, not Brazil :) ) tied to whipping twine gets to most places, and as it's the boom you're working on you can presumably turn it over, hold one end up, etc.
 
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