How to determine interior wood treatment?

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wipe_out

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I am closing in on completing the electrical, electronic, mechanical and rigging updates and changes and now looking to some of the more cosmetic jobs.. When we bought the boat there were some window water leaks so where the water ran down some of the wood work it has left marks and in other areas it's looking a bit unloved through general wear and tear..

The issue I have is working out if the wood was originally oiled, varnished or had a polyurethane (1 or 2 part) painted onto it..

Are there any ways to determine this so that I don't try and put an incompatible treatment over whats there already?
 
wipe_out said:
I am closing in on completing the electrical, electronic, mechanical and rigging updates and changes and now looking to some of the more cosmetic jobs.. When we bought the boat there were some window water leaks so where the water ran down some of the wood work it has left marks and in other areas it's looking a bit unloved through general wear and tear..

The issue I have is working out if the wood was originally oiled, varnished or had a polyurethane (1 or 2 part) painted onto it..

Are there any ways to determine this so that I don't try and put an incompatible treatment over whats there already?
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Your best bet would be to strip it back to bare veneer, very carefully! I would use a card scraper rather than a chemical stripper. You could bleach the black ( assumption here) water stain with oxalic acid. The problem of any touch up job is getting a match in both colour and texture. It is possible to strip an entire bulkhead quickly and then revarnish or whatever.
 
Was hoping to avoid a full strip/sanding mission because that would make the job far bigger but maybe the only option..

Boat is a 2002 Hunter (Legend) 326.. Areas that need attention are the door frames, the fiddles around the galley area, the wood panelling lining the hull behind the seating and the bulkhead next to the stairs..
 
I've been experimenting with varnish in the cabin during the last year before getting to grips with doing the whole lot! Original plan was a satin finish for the big flat surfaces and a high gloss for the edging, door frames that sort of thing. I have been less than impressed with modern varnish, especially the satin stuff and am doing the whole lot in Le Tonkinois after it being recommended by a chap with a lovely boat.
 
wipe_out said:
Was hoping to avoid a full strip/sanding mission because that would make the job far bigger but maybe the only option..

Boat is a 2002 Hunter (Legend) 326.. Areas that need attention are the door frames, the fiddles around the galley area, the wood panelling lining the hull behind the seating and the bulkhead next to the stairs..
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The original finish was probably sprayed with lacquer which is why on new boats it always looks so flat and wonderful. A professional painter can approach these levels but you see many piebald older boats where traditional varnish has been thickly applied with a brush.
I have used Sikkins with reasonable results, it's very similar to Woodskin but cheaper and available in a range of shades. The advantages over traditional varnish is that it goes on very thinly, can be applied in a number of ways, is very easy to overcoat and you have a single can that may be used for a range of stuff on the boat - inside and outside.

For best effect it is best to try and get off the original stuff but it is never easy and a disaster if you go through any veneers. It is obviously a waste of time putting a thin finish on top of thick varnish but you may improve matters if you sand down the original thin finish ,very well and apply new on top. As long as you are not seeking perfection. Like Sandy I pick out handholds, floors and other things that take high wear, with a gloss Yacht Varnish
Some of the areas may be impossible to make 100% because staining can go through, deep into the material.
Most old finishes are seem inert and I have never had an adverse reaction in trying new things on top as long as the original is totally cured.

Peter Poland at PBO is the man for Hunters if you could contact him I am sure he has the full SP. There may even still be a Q and A in the mag.
 
dunedin said:
Peter Poland is indeed the expert for the U.K. Hunter boats - but I think the Hunter Legend is the US brand (though some models were also briefly built in the U.K.)
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Yep, my false step there. I recall they opened up here in Portland somewhere with Government money and then made a rapid exit.
 
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