How to coil a line so that it has a good chance of running freely when heaved?

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NealB

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I'm not going to mention names, but, on Saturday, I was rather shocked when I saw a lifeboatman coil a line by wrapping it repeatedly round the 'crutch' of his hand (between thumb and first finger),and his elbow.

As a boy I was always taught that that is not the way to do it: indeed, it was emphasised that it was a sure indicator of a landlubber.

My personal favourite method is to flake the line in successive flakes, without any twists.

What does the panel think, please?
 
I do it as the RNLI man, putting a twist in the line as I do so. Quick and easy and heaves perfectly.
 
A coiled line will often not run freely. So on my boat, for instance before lowering the main (which with a 4:1 purchase ratio involves a lot of line), and two halyards (peek and throat), I will uncoil the line and just flake/lay it out fairly randomly on the deck. Of course starting from the end first (i.e. not the bit of line closest to the block). It will then run freely every-time.

In my experience, any coil, left long enough on its own during a bumpy crossing will tangle. What ever method and however careful you were when you coiled it up.
 
westernman said:
A coiled line will often not run freely. So on my boat, for instance before lowering the main (which with a 4:1 purchase ratio involves a lot of line), and two halyards (peek and throat), I will uncoil the line and just flake/lay it out fairly randomly on the deck. Of course starting from the end first (i.e. not the bit of line closest to the block). It will then run freely every-time.

In my experience, any coil, left long enough on its own during a bumpy crossing will tangle. What ever method and however careful you were when you coiled it up.
Click to expand...

Yes 'random flaking' on deck (or quay, or pontoon, etc) is my preferred approach if the line is to be used imminently.
 
LadyInBed said:
A good method for light lines. For larger diameter ropes I 'Figure of 8' them.
The outcome is the same - no twists in the rope.
Click to expand...

I agree with you that the 'figure of 8' coil is less likely to twist (and tangle) than my Dad's approach, but it seems to take me longer to perform than the (usually!) reliable flaking shown in #3.

Maybe just a matter of practice makes perfect?
 
NealB said:
I'm not going to mention names, but, on Saturday, I was rather shocked when I saw a lifeboatman coil a line by wrapping it repeatedly round the 'crutch' of his hand (between thumb and first finger),and his elbow.
Click to expand...

Wasn't me! And that's definitely not the way it's taught.

Coils, with a twist, but not around your elbow.

That's akin to sailing with your fenders still out.
 
NealB said:
Interesting: thank you!

Do you mean like this?

How to Quickly Coil a Throw Rope
Click to expand...
I don't do it like that, but the end result is the same - I sort of roll the line between my fingers as I'm looping it round. When I've been watched I get told I'm doing it wrong (because they don't see the twist happening), but they grudgingly admit that the result is right.
I like the method in that video, it's super quick
 
I don’t believe there is a ‘perfect’ way of coiling a line, all lines have an inherent evil which ensures a tangle if left alone for more than 30 seconds. I vary the method depending upon what the line is, halyards, sheets etc are usually flaked, dock lines tend to be coiled as per lifeboatman, unless for instant heaving across to someone in which case definitely flaked.
 
When I used to teach basic sailing I would suggest an 18" tail hanging from my right hand (I used to suggest a nearby object (for the men) that could be used as a measure, and always the first guy to try this would have a tail out of his hand about 2 or 3" long !), then coil in a clockwise direction, with each turn making a slight twist in the lay to make the rope coil naturally.

Subject to the rope diameter normally about 30" coil length top to bottom. Finish with the last turn length coiled around the end, with the tail passed through the upper loops once only.

When heaving a coil remove the top loops, put one end under your foot, split the coil into two halves on in each hand and throw both halves towards the required direction. This generally allows ~ a 90% + reach of the overall rope length.
 
That
superheat6k said:
When I used to teach basic sailing I would suggest an 18" tail hanging from my right hand (I used to suggest a nearby object (for the men) that could be used as a measure, and always the first guy to try this would have a tail out of his hand about 2 or 3" long !), then coil in a clockwise direction, with each turn making a slight twist in the lay to make the rope coil naturally.

Subject to the rope diameter normally about 30" coil length top to bottom. Finish with the last turn length coiled around the end, with the tail passed through the upper loops once only.

When heaving a coil remove the top loops, put one end under your foot, split the coil into two halves on in each hand and throw both halves towards the required direction. This generally allows ~ a 90% + reach of the overall rope length.
Click to expand...
That's how I was taught.
 
When you watch riggers work they take a coil off and then just chuck it. Figure of eight works for me in braided rope. If the pretty look is required ,the alternate twist method looks nice but probably less practical.
 
I try very hard not to have to rely on a coiled or flaked line working as planned. The only regular occasion for this is when dropping the sails and the lines have to pass through the clutches. Just occasionally I get it right, but not usually. A more regular use for a short coil is the jib sheets. The sheet develops a twist as its three turns lie on the winch and it is much easier to free the line if opposite twists are made in the line for the tail, which means coiling it in the reverse of the direction that is normal for a right-hander.
 
We are talking about two different situations here:

When you want a line (say a halyard) to run through a clutch and then some mast sheaves you don't want any twists in it. If you start with a conventional coil you will be taking line off the top and so will end up with a twisted line. This is where flaking or fancy coils are useful.

When you are heaving a line you throw (some of) the coils and so the line unwinds as if it was on a reel. Thus a conventional coil will not introduce any twists.

Winding it round your elbow introduces exactly the same amount of twist as a conventional coil so makes no difference to heaving in that respect. The difference is that when coiling in hand it is easier to keep the coils in order rather than doing later ones over the top of earlier ones. That is what results in coils passing through each other which is how tangles occur when heaving. You wouldn't want to do the sort of coil where you put a backwards twist in every other coil for heaving: if you throw it wrong you will end up with an overhand knot for every two coils.

My preference for heaving is to coil into my throwing hand, then move half the coils over into my other hand in order (bitter end closest to the heel of my hand, working end closest to the fingertips) so they will come off nicely. This is not the fastest option, but eliminates any risk of tangles which means that every throw has the greatest chance of success.
 
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