How old is to old for a fiber class boat

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Ethanhancock1

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Hello i brought a 1975 fiber glass boat it looks in nice condition just. The stringers need replacing i hope. Is it to old is it at end of life spam. Is there a end of life spam for boats?

Thanks just trying to get all the facts before i start this project and if its worth it
 

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If the stringers have failed, I suspect the boat was not built adequately in the first place, or it's had a very hard life, maybe used in rough water with a big motor? Or maybe grounding has damaged the hull. Or maybe the trailer puts all the load in one place?
Anything in GRP can be repaired, but it's easy to put in a lot of time and materials and the end result may be overweight.
Your picture doesn't show a motor. That is where the expense and value lies in older powerboats. You can often get a complete usable boat with engine for similar cost to just the engine. Likewise good trailers are expensive.

Any repairs you do need to be pretty strong, when a boat like that hits a wave, it's quite an impact.

GRP boats might be 'end of life' because a professional repair is too expensive, but an amateur whose time is free can sometimes fix them. But you need some skill and familiarity with that sort of boat to know how strong to make it. And somewhere to work on it of course.

You should read a lot about boat building and repair and cost everything carefully.
Then perhaps buy one that's in working order.
 
The stringers need replacing

Have the stringers disintegrated (by having stuff smashed or pressed up against them) of have they come away from the hull?

If the stringers were not glasses to the hull well in the beginning (poly resin, not enough tabbing fibreglass, surfaces not prepped) they will eventually pull away, but that doesn't mean that the hull is unsound. Older boats were overbuilt.
The boat looks quite clean from the outside.

Photos would clarify things.
gary
 
More pictures needed. The first picture in your other thread gives me the impression that this isn't so much a stringer as a support for some battens (possibly a bed base?). One reason for thinking that is that a stringer is normally at least as tall as it is wide (measuring from the surface that it's supposed to be stiffening). Another reason is that it has notches for the battens. That would be a silly things to do to a stiffener.

Anyway, more pictures. It could turn out to be a badly done later addition that you can just peel out and replace.
 
It’s difficult to get a strong bond in glassfibre once it has cured,certainly in a powerboat hitting a wave a speed could well shock the repair to split from original material.Just gentle motoring about would probably not put undue stress on repair,imvho
 
Wansworth said:
It’s difficult to get a strong bond in glassfibre once it has cured,certainly in a powerboat hitting a wave a speed could well shock the repair to split from original material.Just gentle motoring about would probably not put undue stress on repair,imvho
Click to expand...
That’s true, but the answer is epoxy resin.

If the stringers have delaminated from the hull then anyone with some competent diy skills should be able to strip out the old polyester work, clean up the surfaces and using epoxy and woven tape and a suitable former, install some new stringers the length of the hull.

It’s not a little job and it assumes you’ve stripped out (or got access) to the entire interior of the hull. Paying a yard to do it would be completely uneconomic but the materials would be a few hundred so as a diy it’s possible?
 
Thats what i hope i am able to do a diy and would love to but i just am checking to see if the boat once the stringers or floor is fixed that the boat will survive and not just fall apart and flop. Just trying to get best opinions on fixing it up as have money for diy but not enough for a complete new boat and would never buy a new second hand due to being scammed before thanks any info is absolutely appreciated and i love the shape of this boat so if possible to fix would be over the moon but understand if not fixable thanks

Ethan
 
If the bits you can get access to and see look like that, then the bits you cannot see maybe in worse shape. Looks like a lot of work and money and as you work you'll unlikely uncover more problems. Personally, I'd walk away and look for a different boat.

If you're getting that boat for free and have money to throw at it, then enjoy the challenge. If someone is asking you to pay for it, walk away.
 
Ok, I'm wrong. Not a bed base at all!

There are all sorts of reasons that could explain why they've come adrift, one of which is that they're not properly bonded. My concern would be that whatever the final straw was possibly did damage to the hull laminate itself. All perfectly fixable, but almost easier to build new. Unless this boat had some fabulous history I'd advise walking away.
 
Do you have a chain saw?

Unless you are an experienced GRP worker and have lots of time and cash I'd be chopping this up and taking it to the tip, who might charge you for the pleasure.
 
Yeah i get that but how much would it be to buy a new one. Or to fix it up boats these days aren't as big as that or cost a arm and a leg I've done lots of fibre glassing before so its not a new job to me and a motor isn't a issue i just need the boat in good order. its still licenced never been written off and doesn't have a crash or sunk record i hope to fix it but will have to see the haul has had nothing but good complements from people with experience but the stringers may be the big factor i have work space and tools so that wont cut into it as well but all depending on people's opinions thanks everyone for the advice and any tips looking forward to more tips and opinions thanks so much
 
If you really want to do it....

Find out how the deck moulding is attached and remove it really carefully - it'll crack if it isn't properly supported. Store it carefully, and renovate it when it's securely back on the boat.

Cut everything else out.

Examine the hull - looking for fine cracks. Be prepared to double the thickness of the whole bottom. It probably won't be that bad. If it is you would probably want 3 layers of 600gsm woven roving, interspersed 3 of 450gsm chopped strand mat. If you grind all back to clean, polyester resin is fine.

New stringers, same layup as above. Don't notch them. Those floor bearers should be on edge - they're nigh on useless as they are now.

Consider making the sub floor space watertight in compartments with access hatches.

Put the deck back on.
 
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