How often to change saildrive oil?

paul

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I've got a Volvo 120SE saildrive which takes very expensive synthetic oil. The manual says change the oil annually. Seems to me that providing there's no contamination of the oil that it could go two seasons before changing - after all it's not carrying the deposits or running at high temperature like engine oil. Does anyone have any advice to the contrary?

Thanks

Paul
 

davidwf

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I questioned this as well and was told it was to check that there was no water in the oil. I did suggest that they catch the oil and put it back if not contaminated.

Now out of warranty and changing every two years and buying the oil from Keyparts at a considerable saving.
 

snowleopard

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would you believe?...

every 100 hours according to the yanmar saildrive manual. as if anyone would haul out after every 4 days motoring! but then yanmar only ask for ep90 (car axle oil)
 

PeterGibbs

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To add to Davidwf's advice above:

Synthetic oil will show if it is contaminated by opening the oil filler and seeing if the oil (just after shutting down the engine) is clear. Synthetic oil and water do not mix as with mineral oil whcih turns to a black butter on absorbing the water.

Tip: when refilling oil on the 120 squirt it down the dipstick filler - takes but a fraction of the time in doing it via the (useless) oil filler cap.

Keypart supply me too - in Watford and in the sailing press - very useful. Synthetic oil (volvo type) also a lot cheaper on the Continent - can you believe it!

Finally, every two years is how often I change it - seems ok at the moment. When undoing the screw in the base of the leg make sure the washer is retained / replaced - loosing oil at sea is no joke!

Oh, and do watch the integrity of the neoprene ring that sits under the filler cap - it is a large ring and soon distorts. If it is not a tight fit, oil will seep out of the box when under way - not a pretty sight. The ring costs £1 - and money well spent - trust me!

PWG
 

scarlett

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I am not an expert but in my view expensive synthetic oil should last a few seasons/100s of hours, unless the water seal behind the prop is going defective. Say three years or 300. Every time I lift out I check for water by draining a little after a day or two. If there is no water or dirt everything is fine by me. I also use Slick 50 as a precaution in the engine and gearbox.

The water seal can be damaged by picking up a rope or chain. Don't neglect it as to run the leg with water in it will destroy it beyond economic professional repair and a relacement is a couple of thousand.

I hope Volvo is reading this thread and will put in their two penny worth.
 

EdEssery

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Synthetic Oil?

My 120S Sail Drive pre-dates Synthetic Oil being of mid 80s Vintage. I've been told to use ordinary engine oil...

Agree about filling through dipstick hole - use piece of narrow tubing and a filter funnel.

Ed
 

vyv_cox

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Slick 50

Never, ever, use products like Slick 50 in your lub oil. See <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.the-oilman.com/questions/link4.html>http://www.the-oilman.com/questions/link4.html</A> for a comprehensive debunking of these products.

Lubricant formulations are complex. Apart from the carefully selected base-oil, the additives can include detergents, dispersants, viscosity index improvers, anti-oxidants, anti-rust agents, anti-wear additives, friction reducing additives, anti-foaming agents, etc. The individual chemicals often play more than one role in the formulation and there can be interactive and competitive effects. In arriving at a commercial formulation, there is a lot of careful balancing required amongst the components and the final blend is subject to a large number of expensive industry standard tests to ensure that it meets a whole raft of performance requirements. The likelihood that addition of a product of unknown composition to this complex cocktail will be beneficial is extremely remote.

These lubricant additive packages are available from various sources and generally function by the production of an easily sheared film, for example PTFE, on interacting surfaces. It might be of interest that the US Federal Trade Commission has upheld complaints of exaggerated and unsubstantiated claims regarding the benefits of adding PTFE-enhanced aftermarket products to conventional motor oils.
 

kdf

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You're ok - Its only the 120SE that requires synthetic oil - all the others are ok with engine oil.
 

Viking

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VP cheaper aboard! Yes I can believe it!
I brought the complete VP service works for my 2030 and 120se saildrive.
including VP engine oil, VP Synthetic Oil, both sets of oil filters, Fuel filters, the 4 enodes, winter inhibiting oil, spray can of sailing drive antifouling, and two impellers, extra spare and coolant/antifreeze. All VP brand a from VP agent..under £90. Oh and VAT here is 24%
 
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