how much to have a man replace my cutless bearing?

[Burnham Bob]

I have a trapper 500. the cutless bearing needed replacing and it cost me an arm and a leg. however, i'm not convinced that it was done as efficiently as possible and i think i got charged by the hour on the 'as long as it takes' basis.

the rudder needs to be dropped if the shaft is to be drawn out and I know that adds to the cost but do forumites have an idea of what i might be in for - the bearing seems only to have lasted two seasons and i'm a little miffed as next winter i think i'll have to replace it again.

 

[fisherman]

Took me three days, between tides. Last time it was two hours. To be fair, with the correct puller it could be done in 2-3 hours, shaft out. I made a puller to shove in at the prop end, oval washer on the end that tipped up to engage the inside end of the cutless, spanner with a two foot bar on it, dragged every mm. Then the new one had to be turned down in a lathe, it should be a standard imperial size, don't know why not.

The new cutless has a ring threaded on the outside end so next time it should just be, prop off, three holes in ring, tap holes, drive bolts in holes to pull cutless out. Saves pulling the shaft.

 

[sailorman]

I replaced mine some 13 yrs ago when i re engined, its still ok @ 1300 hrs.
to replace i would need to
drop the rudder ( remove cables Y a/h ram & quadrant) when hauled in the travel hoist or arrange another lift.
Remove the MaxProp & rope cutter
sort the bearing & re assemble all the above.
guess a days work for me

 

[macd]

Very few men can replace your cutless bearing. Quite a few, particularly at Westminster, are slippery enough, but hellish expensive. So I'd stick with the rubber type.

 

[Laundryman]

Not much practical use to you as I'm in the Solent but I had my cutlass bearing changed last July. It involved some cosmetic work on the housing and the labour element of fitting a new Volvo seal at the same time( I already had the seal). Damage was caused by fouled prop. John Cutler Engineering from Emsworth travelled 20 miles to the boat which was already on the hard and did a very good job for £240. Extremely knowledgable and professional and I would have no hesitation in recommending him if you were closer. Beneteau Oceanis 321 by the way. Good luck. Alan

 

[Sandmartin]

16, 11, and 3 years ago replaced mine. Normally a 2 day job (Twin shaft boat). First off, over 2 hours cleaning the shafts and removing the shaft annodes. Remove props, 3 hours, drilling out prop nut securing screw and rigging up the puller took the time. (But it took me originaly an afternoon in the garage to make a prop puller, with about 10 quids with of metal plate stud bars and bolts). Splitting the couplings and withdrawing both shafts took an hour each. Then another couple of hours checking and smoothing the shafts. Removing the old cutlass bearing took 3 hours the first time as drilling out the lock screws took over an hour, could have been quicker but did not want to damage the housing. Cleaning out and fitting new bearings another hour, Replacing shafts and props 4 hours, drilling and tapping lock screws taking just over an hour and over an hour was spent checking shaft alignment. Simple, easy, and straightforfard but not as quick as many people think. Mind you my time includes a gallon or so of tea drinking.

 

[Spyro]

Paying a man he should be professional. If it's in a p bracket he should have the tools to do it. Prop puller, pusher etc. No more than 100 pounds. A professional should not need to remove the shaft

 

[fisherman]

Looking at google images it seems this is a p bracket, yes? Should be simple and quick, no need to draw the shaft if they have the right tools.

 

[DownWest]

Looking at google images it seems this is a p bracket, yes? Should be simple and quick, no need to draw the shaft if they have the right tools.

If indeed a P bracket, then not difficult. I made a simple kit for an ex Admiral Cup boat that would need to remove the engine and draw the shaft forward. So a couple of bits of steel plate and some threaded rod, combined with a split tube to push the bearing out. There are fancy ( and pricey) kits to do it, but they are for various sizes.

Tool was made with some hole cutters and thin cutting discs in the angle grinder, so no special kit needed.

 

[fisherman]

Picture to get an idea
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=c...=JtQ8V-yuDMTfgAaYn5GQDw#imgrc=8KBqWx5fjGYJwM:

 

[Keith 66]

Paying a man he should be professional. If it's in a p bracket he should have the tools to do it. Prop puller, pusher etc. No more than 100 pounds. A professional should not need to remove the shaft

You obviously have never met a cutless bearing corroded in so badly that the only way to remove it is by pulling the shaft & sawing a slot or two into it to collapse it inwards to allow it to be withdrawn!

 

[fisherman]

Mine was badly turned, by me, so corrugated surface to grab hold everywhere. the new one is polished, and coated with waterproof grease.

 

[PhillM]

Cost me £1k to her a corroded p bracket off, cutlass bearing replaced and new wood scarfed in. No complaints because the job was much more complicated than I expected.

 

[James_Calvert]

Sorry not a direct reply to your query because I've only ever done the job myself, never paid.

A cutlass sp? bearing can wear the shaft as well as itself so sometimes you need to replace both. Were you sure that the shaft was OK last time? Because if it wasn't it's possible that the new bearing was installed in a slightly different position to the old one so that initially a small bit of it bore against an unworn part of the shaft. But it's now evened up and rattles again.

However if everything was indeed OK last time it was done, are you really sure it needs doing so soon again? Although it wasn't particularly bad I replaced a bearing on my boat at a surveyor's suggestion, within a year or so it was a little worn again. But it didn't get significantly worse over the next ten years or so.

 

[Malish]

If it has worn out after two years then something is likely to be wrong with engine or shaft alignment, what is supporting the inboard end of the shaft?

 

[Spyro]

You obviously have never met a cutless bearing corroded in so badly that the only way to remove it is by pulling the shaft & sawing a slot or two into it to collapse it inwards to allow it to be withdrawn!

that's exactly how I did mine on my previous boat (trapper 300) so yes I have. It didn't take that long and I'm no professional. OP said it was done 2 seasons before so I doubt it would be corroded and stuck.

 

[Neil_Y]

You can use bearings designed for a clearance fit (slide in by hand on the shaft) these are secured with a very thin coating of epoxy. Ideally though it's easier with shaft removed then you can make sure you've cleaned up the bearing carrier. (piece of emery cloth in a slot on a bar in a hand drill works well)
With epoxy there is never any corrosion so removal is easy if you can heat the carrier or crack the bearing away with a sharp chisel.

 

[fisherman]

If you asked me and I was the chap for the job I would turn up with the valid pulling gear for both prop and bearing. I would say, if I had to travel, £50 for turning up, then 3 hours at £40, plus £70 or so for the bearing. This assumes P bracket, there is room for the prop to come off, and the new bearing needs no machining.