How much should I pay for a spray paint job on my hull?

Nigel-in-Oxford

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Me: Oxford & Dereham.Boat:Oxford to North Norfolk
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Having spent 2 long days removing the bloom from my mustard brown gel coat in April ( it looked like new), it's now just as bad as before!
I was in Woodbridge at the weekend and saw some fantastic paint jobs that the locals had had done but the chaps at the boat yard did not know how much they cost.
So any experiences and costings out there?
The boat is 22-23ft.
 
+ 1 for Fox's, our boat was resprayed there in 1999 by the previous owner, still looks very good, apart from a few scratches here and there, but they are not the fault of the paint job. :D
 
I'm guessing the 'bloom' wasn't removed in the first place.

More likely it was filled with a product within a product, for example a cutting compound that has filling properties.
Looks good for a while, but the correction is temporary.

I can create a shine on my carpet by spilling some drink on it, the shine lasts as long as it takes for the carpet to absorb it.
If you want a shiny floor, remove carpet.

Take off the top 1 -3 % and you may well have a perfect surface waiting for you. If it looked like new in April with fillers, then I'm sure of it.

I would also highly recommend Fox's if you are thinking of new paint.
 
Dunno how much it'll cost but my last boat had its hull sprayed by Port Falmouth Boatyard and they did a superb job that still looked good after 15 years of good use.
I hand painted the deck and that too lasted a good 10 years.( 2 long, hard weeks of prep and a total of four coats...) it's still looking good.

Blakes 2 pack paint used on both jobs.
 
You may have seen it used to good effect, but I can assure you it won't be doing you any favours.

It is 'lazy products' like these that put the final nail in the coffin for oxidised gel coats.
The sellers have no idea what oxidation is.
They seem to think it is a film that is on the surface rather than being the condition of the actual surface.
And, to suggest that sanding the surface with a 1000 grit wet & dry round a sponge before application is just poor advice.

The good advice they do offer on how light hits an oxidised surface they seem to have borrowed from one of my blogs :)

When you paint this stuff (and many other similar products) on it will be trapping the oxygen within the highs and lows of the surface. This trapped oxygen will continue to oxidise the surface, but now it is out of sight.

When the coating fails and it will fail, it will be a PITA to remove, what you find underneath wont be the protected gel coat you imagined.

Apologies to OP for slight drift
 
You may have seen it used to good effect, but I can assure you it won't be doing you any favours.

It is 'lazy products' like these that put the final nail in the coffin for oxidised gel coats.
The sellers have no idea what oxidation is.
They seem to think it is a film that is on the surface rather than being the condition of the actual surface.
And, to suggest that sanding the surface with a 1000 grit wet & dry round a sponge before application is just poor advice.

The good advice they do offer on how light hits an oxidised surface they seem to have borrowed from one of my blogs :)

When you paint this stuff (and many other similar products) on it will be trapping the oxygen within the highs and lows of the surface. This trapped oxygen will continue to oxidise the surface, but now it is out of sight.

When the coating fails and it will fail, it will be a PITA to remove, what you find underneath wont be the protected gel coat you imagined.

Apologies to OP for slight drift

That's my experience of these "miracle" products too. Short term (very short) improvement, followed by long term regret.
 
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