How much play allowed in furlex swivel?

andsarkit

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That definitely has more play than mine .
Have you seen this note in the manual.
1671874501867.png
If you need to replace/refurbish the swivel I think you can remove the top guard from the extrusion and slide it off the top. Otherwise you will have to dismantle the lower wire terminal which is more difficult and will need a new cone.
 

Boathook

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Looks a bit knackered. As mentioned bearings. I suspect that there is an youtube video for the top bearing if you search. Another option is to purchase a new top unit from Selden if they sell them separately. What ever you do the forestay will have to be removed.
 

slawosz

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That definitely has more play than mine .
Have you seen this note in the manual.
View attachment 148124
If you need to replace/refurbish the swivel I think you can remove the top guard from the extrusion and slide it off the top. Otherwise you will have to dismantle the lower wire terminal which is more difficult and will need a new cone.
I am aware of that note - I am just (over)confident of my engineering skills ;) By new cone - what exactly you mean?
 

andsarkit

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I am aware of that note - I am just (over)confident of my engineering skills ;) By new cone - what exactly you mean?
I think it should be easy on a workbench but too easy to lose bits dismantling it on the boat. I have not tried it but the usual trick of holding the balls in place with grease should work.
They call it a wedge not a cone and ideally it is renewed if you undo the bottom fitting. (they do say you can re-use it, if it is undistorted.)
1672228248128.png
I've checked the manual and the top swivel will slide off after you have removed the top guard so there is no need to touch the bottom drum end.
 

slawosz

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Oh, I will drop the mast before removing. Bonus question about bottom drum. The design is similar, I wonder if the bottom swivel can develop similar problems? I think it might bite less as higher forces are applied via the furling rope?
 

slawosz

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I disasembled furlex with help of rigger who is Selden dealer. Top swivel had some tacky, very thick something - I think it was kind of grease that thickened over time. Balls and bearing plates were glued together, and only collar was moving - making contact points to wear... Turned out that forstay was not assembled properly (someone did not left asked 2 mm of wire). Now I will have new wire and will service both up and down swivels and will use Selden own grease.
Actually (as I bought good looking swivel) there is lot of play allowed, as long you can turn swivel freely under friction.
 

rotrax

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I pulled a lower drum completely in bits on the visitors pontoon at Ardglass some years ago. Caught the knackered balls - for Moody Sabre's information they were S/S balls - and repaired it well enough to get the boat home to the UK. The balls had broken the side of the lower track when they jammed together. Some then fell onto the tapered part of the Talurit fitting and jammed solid. The skipper winched it in, undoing the Talurit fitting and disconnecting the forestay. Good thing he was sailing downwind!

I made bearing rings from some American heavy electrical cable with a nominal 1/4 inch diameter. With plenty of grease they got him home where he invested in a new forestay and furler. The old cone was re-used, we had no option.
 
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