How many mark keel points ? For lifter guidance ?

[Refueler]

What do I mean ?

My BK motor sailer has small red marks along the sheerstrake above wood strake to mark the front and rear of the keels. That way guy lifting can see where slings are in relation to keels for lifting.

My fin keel 38 - I will be marking slightly different for first lift ... I have transducers exiting hull immediately ahead of keel (at this stage assumed to be 4). As I have no idea if all exit hull - no idea when last 'pulled' and whether they will 'pull' easily or not and if I can plug .. I will not be 'pulling' them before lift.
I therefore need to make sure sling does not 'crush' any ... sling needs to be ahead of them. Not too far or risk of slippage ...

Red marker tape will be fixed as guide for him ...

Once on shore - all will be revealed and transducers finally identified .....

Before asked - all cables enter conduit pipes and are buried behind panelling / furniture etc. - making it difficult to ID which is which ...

 

[PeteCooper]

The marina I used to use put stickers on the toerail on the first lift to make subsequent lifts easier.

 

[Martin_J]

The marina put stickers on my boat as well after their first lift.

The stickers make the safe lifting points though and not the forward/aft edges of the keel or the transducers..

I keep meaning to check if the stickers align with internal bulkheads though (which would be nice).

I've tried to always pull transducers in, but would lifting strops actually squash transducers much (and I don't include the really protruding forward looking sonars in this)...? The load on a particular point must be so well spread.

Isn't it like the force on a spinnaker luff - you can pull any point on the luff around quite easily by fingertip, whereas the force on the tack line is immense and you'd struggle to pull the clew around at all..

 

[Boathook]

The marina put stickers on my boat as well after their first lift.

The stickers make the safe lifting points though and not the forward/aft edges of the keel or the transducers..

I keep meaning to check if the stickers align with internal bulkheads though (which would be nice).

I've tried to always pull transducers in, but would lifting strops actually squash transducers much (and I don't include the really protruding forward looking sonars in this)...? The load on a particular point must be so well spread.

Isn't it like the force on a spinnaker luff - you can pull any point on the luff around quite easily by fingertip, whereas the force on the tack line is immense and you'd struggle to pull the clew around at all..

I wouldn't like a lifting strop to cover my log. Suspect that it would break the paddle wheel. The tension on the strop i have noticed is quite a lot, a bit like a jib sheet wound in tight.

 

[Praxinoscope]

I put small diamond shaped self adhesive stickers on the sling points, of my boat, (the sling points are just fore and aft of the bilge keels), they save a lot discussion of where the slings should go.

 

[Neeves]

Ours are at bulkheads

Jonathan

 

[Refueler]

Here's an underwater profile picture I found .... so now I know where prop shaft is .. and will also be able to mark approximate keel points.... with allowance for transducers.

I will be more happy once I see underhull after lift and actually dtermine which 'ducer' stays - which is removed ... 5 is maybe a bit too much !!

 

[The Q]

I designed the boat,
I built the boat
I lift the boat,
I know where to put the strops..

 

[Refueler]

Had Yard Manager on board today .... last minute checks before I go to UK ...

We checked position of 'ducers' and he's confident that we are ok to lift without pulling any ...

 

[rogerthebodger]

I designed the boat,
I built the boat
I lift the boat,
I know where to put the strops..

Me too but I do have marks on the toe rails to indicate mwinly where the aft lift straps must be to prevent the lifting on the exposte prop shaft.

The forward lift straps are less important but I still have then narked to if I am not in attendance if lifted

https://flic.kr/p/VGzPK3

 

[Buck Turgidson]

Yep I’ve got marks on the toe rail the aft is important to prevent the rear sling grabbing the bottom of the rudder which is a long way forward

 

[vyv_cox]

Careful siting of the marks, and the strops when lifting, is critical. When launching in adverse conditions on Aegina the forward strop slipped, breaking the log impeller. This was an obsolete design on our old B&G system that proved irreplaceable, ultimately costing me thousands for a total reinstrumentation.

I have also seen a prop shaft bent when a strop was placed over it.

When we lifted at Port Toga in Corsica the hoist driver used an underwater camera to ensure all was well, the only place we have seen this done.

 

[Refueler]

Careful siting of the marks, and the strops when lifting, is critical. When launching in adverse conditions on Aegina the forward strop slipped, breaking the log impeller. This was an obsolete design on our old B&G system that proved irreplaceable, ultimately costing me thousands for a total reinstrumentation.

I have also seen a prop shaft bent when a strop was placed over it.

When we lifted at Port Toga in Corsica the hoist driver used an underwater camera to ensure all was well, the only place we have seen this done.

That is my main worry - I have an old B&G system .... and I'm sure that only B&G Network gear works with it .....

We are pretty sure that sling will be behind the 'ducers' .... but slippage is a concern. Luckily most boats come out of water here with very little slime as you get in UK etc. Waters only brackish - so we don't get the same fouling ....

 

[Chiara’s slave]

We have lifting eyes and custom strops. On both our tri and our keelboat.

 

[Refueler]

We have lifting eyes and custom strops. On both our tri and our keelboat.

'The C38 has single point lift - using keel bolts ... there's blanking plate in deckhead and deck ... but noat is 1986 and at this stage prefer not to lift by it .. yard has fully mobile lifter ...

 

[Chiara’s slave]

'The C38 has single point lift - using keel bolts ... there's blanking plate in deckhead and deck ... but noat is 1986 and at this stage prefer not to lift by it .. yard has fully mobile lifter ...

I understand. Our keel boat is 1952, but the keel bolts and lifting eye nuts are only 10 yrs old. The strops are the same but kept in a bag, dry and dark. Longer term, new keel bolts and eyes might be a good idea for you?

 

[LittleSister]

... sling needs to be ahead of them. Not too far or risk of slippage ...

We are pretty sure that sling will be behind the 'ducers' .... but slippage is a concern.

Shouldn't slip as the strops should tied together if it's at all far vertically from where they are suspended.

Doesn't always happen though, I know. The yard failed to do that when my Hurley 22 was being lifted many years ago - the forward strop slid up the hull, the bow plummeted, I ran like hell. Luckily the strop caught at the last possible moment on the slightly projecting bow forestay fitting, which probably didn't do it any good, but the boat didn't drop onto the concrete quay edge below, and I lived to recount the tale.

 

[dunedin]

That is my main worry - I have an old B&G system .... and I'm sure that only B&G Network gear works with it .....

We are pretty sure that sling will be behind the 'ducers' .... but slippage is a concern. Luckily most boats come out of water here with very little slime as you get in UK etc. Waters only brackish - so we don't get the same fouling ....

Would getting a friendly diver to check before the first lift be a worthwhile investment ?

Or the endoscope camera (circa £40 in UK), though perhaps less easy to accurately position

 

[Refueler]

Would getting a friendly diver to check before the first lift be a worthwhile investment ?

Or the endoscope camera (circa £40 in UK), though perhaps less easy to accurately position

I have diver ready to do the job ... 70 euros includes full photographic stills / video .....

Or an amateur guy at 20 euro an hour ...

I have both HD Fishing camera and Endoscope .... problem then is as you say - positioning.

Being a modeller ... I have thought about getting one of those diving camera drones ....

 

[Refueler]

Shouldn't slip as the strops should tied together if it's at all far vertically from where they are suspended.

Doesn't always happen though, I know. The yard failed to do that when my Hurley 22 was being lifted many years ago - the forward strop slid up the hull, the bow plummeted, I ran like hell. Luckily the strop caught at the last possible moment on the slightly projecting bow forestay fitting, which probably didn't do it any good, but the boat didn't drop onto the concrete quay edge below, and I lived to recount the tale.

The lifter does not need slings 'tied' to each other as guy can alter distance between them on the top rail ...

This is my other boat being lifted to repair the damaged keel