How long...

[A1Sailor]

...are your battens?
When purchasing a cruising mainsail, what are the perceived benefits of full length battens? Is the level of performance increased to justify the increased cost?

 

[GrumpyOldGit]

Go for 3/4 length battens on a cruising boat with a full length at the top.

the saving is immense and the performance will be nearly the same as full length but without spending £1000's on mast cars etc...

 

[Twister_Ken]

Go for 3/4 length battens on a cruising boat with a full length at the top.

the saving is immense and the performance will be nearly the same as full length but without spending £1000's on mast cars etc...

Well, £100's anyway.

 

[tom_sail]

I got quoted £936 for fully batterened main with sail cars for a hunter horizon 26. The mast isnt huge so low budget sail cars can be used. I thought that was reasonable and well worth the price if your old one was shot.

 

[snowleopard]

Full battens give a better sail shape, particularly in light wind, make the sail lie quietly when de-powered and make lazyjacks or stack-pack operate much easier. They make it more difficult to de-power if the boom is close to the shrouds. I wouldn't bother on pure performance grounds unless I were racing.

 

[Ex-SolentBoy]

...are your battens?
When purchasing a cruising mainsail, what are the perceived benefits of full length battens? Is the level of performance increased to justify the increased cost?

Mine go all the way from the boom to the leech.

 

[prv]

Mine go all the way from the boom to the leech.

And I don't have any at all. Unless you count the big wooden one at the top of the sail.

Pete

 

[BAtoo]

Go for 3/4 length battens on a cruising boat with a full length at the top.

the saving is immense and the performance will be nearly the same as full length but without spending £1000's on mast cars etc...

+1

 

[TQA]

Full battens give a better sail shape, particularly in light wind, make the sail lie quietly when de-powered and make lazyjacks or stack-pack operate much easier. They make it more difficult to de-power if the boom is close to the shrouds. I wouldn't bother on pure performance grounds unless I were racing.

+1

 

[A1Sailor]

Thanks for the posts.

 

[John_Silver]

One unexpected bonus I found with full length battens & roller cars is that the main will rattle down unaided when you release the halyard. Very handy for singlehanding. I find myself anchoring under sail these days and can confidently sail right up to a harbour entrance. Previously I'd have dropped sail with plenty of searoom to allow me to go forward and "help" the luff slides down the mast whilst stood on the coachroof.

 

[BAtoo]

One unexpected bonus I found with full length battens & roller cars is that the main will rattle down unaided when you release the halyard. Very handy for singlehanding. I find myself anchoring under sail these days and can confidently sail right up to a harbour entrance. Previously I'd have dropped sail with plenty of searoom to allow me to go forward and "help" the luff slides down the mast whilst stood on the coachroof.

Lubricate your sliders - teflon or silicon spray - works a treat.
Check your sheeves run freely.
Nice supple rope.

Then your main should drop without help - & still no need for expensive cars....

 

[Slowtack]

I have full battens and cars without rollers but with metal lugs that side in the standard luff track. Shot of Lidl silicon spray twice a season keeps it all working fine and sail drops easily. Doubt i would go back to short battens now.

 

[LadyInBed]

I have full battens and cars without rollers but with metal lugs that side in the standard luff track.

Same here, almost. My battens fit on ordinary plastic lugs.
I had the full battens put in when I had the sail re-cut.