Murv
Well-known member
Access is extremely difficult, and I can't see how it's held on.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
How easy is it to remove a Jabsco raw water pump?
- Thread starter Murv
- Start date
captainboo
Active member
Probably by the bolts that go through the black rusty disc into the blue pulley behind. You can just make out one of them to the right of the right hand hose connection.
The black disc will be attached to the pump shaft. Once the bolts are undone (3 or 4 of them) and the hose connections the black disc will separate form the blue allowing you to remove the pump.
The black disc will be attached to the pump shaft. Once the bolts are undone (3 or 4 of them) and the hose connections the black disc will separate form the blue allowing you to remove the pump.
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PCUK
Well-known member
It would normally be bolted through the black flange but I can't see any bolt or screw heads visible. Maybe it needs a good clean up with abrasive to reveal the fastenings?
Murv
Well-known member
Fantastic, thanks very much both. I had to get that shot by poking the phone camera down there, and it looks as if you're right, there does seem to be rusty bolts visible.
I'm sure it will be great fun getting those out!
I'm sure it will be great fun getting those out!
Graham_Wright
Well-known member
What stops the pump body rotating - the hoses?
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Jcorstorphine
Well-known member
I could be wrong but it looks like the type of pump fitted by Lancing Marine to Ford 1.8 (escort) engines and you are right, the hoses prevent the pump from turning. As to how it is kept in place, I cannot help as I used a belt driven pump on my Ford as did not like the above arrangement. However, I would remove the hoses and see what moves.
rogerthebodger
Well-known member
It is what is called a shaft mounted pump and is currently prevented from turning by the hoses. The spigot the can be seen should have a torque arm connecting the pump body to the engine to prevent the pump body from turning and prevent the hoses from taking the torque load.
brianhumber
New member
I agree and my 1986 engine has exactly that fitted.
ITT supply drawings ( or did ) but the pumps are not difficult to fully dismantle into its component parts for overhaul. After going to the trouble of removing those rusty flange bolts I would recommend the OP replace the shaft seal whilst you have it in pieces. In 19 years of ownership of Ronhilda I have only had to replace the shaft seal once.
Brian
Murv
Well-known member
Thank you all, much appreciated.
The offending pump is now sat in my kitchen as it has a couple of broken off screws to sort out.
The retaining bolts were not as badly corroded as it appeared, and came out quite easily.
Much to my dismay, the pump still stayed firmly in position, but was finally encouraged out with gentle use of a mallet.
It is a Lancing marine fit, it's on the 2.5 TD unit.
The offending pump is now sat in my kitchen as it has a couple of broken off screws to sort out.
The retaining bolts were not as badly corroded as it appeared, and came out quite easily.
Much to my dismay, the pump still stayed firmly in position, but was finally encouraged out with gentle use of a mallet.
It is a Lancing marine fit, it's on the 2.5 TD unit.
