How do I winterise an outboard?

Rivers & creeks

Rivers & creeks

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I have 2 outboards to do. The first is a little 2 stroke Tohatsu that is stored in a shed. The other is a 9.9 Yamaha four stroke which has to stay on board but under cover. What would you recommend doing apart from running them in some fresh water for a few minutes?

Thanks.
 
Run for 15 minutes minimum in fresh water, then turn of the petrol and let them use up whats left in the carburator until they stop. That should stop the carb gumming up and clear out the cooling water ports of any salt residue.
 
Cant help with the 4 stroke but with my 3.3 Johnson and I guess the theory is still much the same. Start with a wash off and run the engine in clean water, allow to dry. Spray WD40 in through the water intake and the carb as you pull the starter cord. Always empty the fuel before you do this, the fuel can leave a residue in the float chamber that can cause the needle to stick. When this is done I take out the plug and spray copious amounts of WD40 in the cylinder.

Then get some waterproof grease into all the moving parts, throttle etc.

The theory is that the WD40 will get into the water ways and the combustion chamber and help stop any corrosion.

The motor is now about 10 years old and always starts easily, even after my winterising.
 
What ive seen done and do myself is whats been said already but when the engine has used the fule and is stopping sray WD40 into the carb as that coats all the parts more effectivly than spraying it in when not running.
 
Ref 2 stroke:

You need to do three things - 1. change the gearbox oil, 2. prevent corrosion in the engine; & 3. ideally rest the impeller.

1. Change the gearbox oil

Run in fresh water as suggested until engine is warmed up.
Stop engine - remove upper & lower gearbox oil plugs
Allow oil to drain out.

Once drained - using one of the tube type oil dispensers, pump oil in through the lower drain plug hole until it overflows the top plug hole. Quickly put in the lower drain plug and then the upper drain plug.

2. Stop engine corrosion

Remove what you need to be able to access the air intake of the carburetter

Restart engine in fresh water and while engine is still running spray Quicksilver Storage Seal (or similar) into the carb through the air intake - this will stall the engine but thats what you want to do.

Replace anything you took off to access the carb air intake.

Remove the sparkplug

Spray copious amounts of Storage Seal into the sparkplug hole and then operate the starter pull rope several times to allow the Storage Seal to penetrate through the engine parts. You may see some of the storage seal run out of the exhaust. This is OK and shows it is right through the engine.

Replace spark plug

3. Rest the impeller (usually situated just behind the prop on small 2-strokes)

Remove prop
Remove outer plate of water pump
Remove impeller
Check impeller for wear & get new one if worn
Take opportunity to clean out impeller housing
Replace outer water pump plate
Put into storage.

NB put all bits in a safe place. I put them in a poly bag inside the engine cover.

In spring:

Replace impeller reversing above noting carefully direction of rotation.(use loctite thread lock on bolts)
Replace prop.

When you restart engine it will initially produce lots of smoke but that's OK & is only short lived.

Probably similar procedure for 4-stroke but I'm sure someone will help here.

Hope this helps
 
In winter i try to use a passerell!
Visit a cafe mornings and a SSb to keep in touch,saddly the SSb isent used any more!Though they cost less than a mobile phone have more features than ever and are so compact and reliable they ask to be aboard even the smallest "yacht"
 
Very good Dave, 9 out if 10!
I,d have given ee full marrks laddie but I dinna like louchtite on me nuts der ken! /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
Do what the owners manual recommendes otherwise:
Run in fresh water for about 10 to 15 min as already said but also hose all the salt off the outside. Check that there is a good flow of water from the pee hole while it is running. The water pump impeller should be renewed periodically.

Running out all the petrol is a good idea but so is spraying fogging oil ito the air intake until the engine dies but it is not really possble to do both. At least spray some fogging oil into each plug hole and pull the stater cord a few times to distribute it. Also with a two stroke engine spray some in through the carb to get around the inside of the crankcase. WD40 is good for spraying around generally to repell moisture but it is not a lubricant.

Inspect, regap, replace spark plugs (& points on older engines)

Clean the fuel filter and if appropriate the fuel tank. Transfer any fuel you wish to store to air tight metal cans but do not keep part full cans.

Change the engine oil in four strokes. Do they have oil filters if so change that.

Grease any grease points and lightly oil or grease other external moving parts.

Genearlly check for loose fastenings and check for deteriorated hoses and wiring.

Drain off the gearbox oil (allow it to drain thoroughly - overnight perhaps) and refill with fresh oil. If there is more than a trace of water in the old oil renew the seals.

Inspect propeller

Touch up any chipped paintwork.

Store the engine somewhere secure, dry, slightly warmed if possible and preferably in an upright position. Don't leave it on the boat.

Before putting back into service clean the plugs of any oil, check the gearbox for leaks and check the oil level. Check the engine oil level in 4 strokes. Filter any fuel you have stored and perhaps mix it 50:50 with fresh. After starting check the cooling water flow.
 
Following on from the good advice already given, would this work for a 90hp Evinrude - just priced up winterisation (inc service which entails plugging a handheld computer into the engine and seeing if anything is wrong) looking at best part of £250 squids unless.................
"oh dear sir, your widget needs replacing and we haven't got one in stock - be a couple of months till we get them in cos no call for them at this time of year"
That should put it up to £400 squids with the traveling etc.
Frenches at brightlingsea used to do Evinrude but now it's Seamark Nunn nearly at Felixstowe so you also have to pay travelling. I was told Frenches would not buy any more motors so Evirude pulled the plug so to speak.

forgot to mention the motor runs on straight unleaded but has a remote oil reservior so I assume its a two stroke.

Regards
Bob
 
[ QUOTE ]
but has a remote oil reservior so I assume its a two stroke.


[/ QUOTE ] Variable rate oiling (VRO) was introduced in 1984 for 2 stroke Evinrudes of 90hp and upwards. Guess thats what you have.
 
Thanks for the clarification Vic -always wondered why i did not need to mix oil with fuel like i do for my little dinghy motor.
Bob
 
If its got a remote oil dwberry it must be a 2 stroke.
Widgets can be expensive (sharp intake of breath and all that)
Just to make sure, do you have to top up the remote dwberry from time to time?
The pricipal of winterising a 2 stroke outboard is the same irrespective of the size of the cylinders.
Do not go to Boat Jumbles etc looking for discounted Widgets, it,s always best to fit the origional Manufacturers Parts. Especially inboard engines beginning with V and with a green look about them!
ROLLOCKS! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Dave

Every thing you suggest more or less echoes what I said. I suggested WD 40 as its cheap and everyone has a can to hand.

I would question though:

[ QUOTE ]
Rest the impeller (usually situated just behind the prop on small 2-strokes)

Remove prop
Remove outer plate of water pump
Remove impeller
Check impeller for wear & get new one if worn
Take opportunity to clean out impeller housing
Replace outer water pump plate
Put into storage.


[/ QUOTE ]

Working on the basis of don't fix wot ain't broke, leave the impeller alone. Potentially damage can be done in stripping out and replacing the impeller. The spraying of WD 40 into the water intake will provide lubrication and save the impeller housing corroding.
 
Stephen

Reason I said this is that one year I did just that - ie. nothing to the impeller. Started next season and after few mins running engine seized (yes I know that I should have looked for water telltale but must have had a senior moment!) . Turned out that sand etc had got into the impeller housing & set pretty hard. Prop shaft turned but impeller didn't. So, as they say "onec bitten twice shy" ever since then I have removed the impeller for the winter & cleaned out the housing.

Dave
 
Somebody has to say this - might as well be me...

Buy a British Seagull!

To winterise:

1. Run in fresh water for a bit.

2. Change the gearbox oil for some new SAE 140

3. Take the plug out and squirt some oil down the hole, then put the plug back loosely.

4. Pat it.
 
Re: Somebody has to say this - might as well be me...

No to winterise a Seagull: Throw in a corner and ignore!
 
Re: Somebody has to say this - might as well be me...

Well, I was voicing a counsel of perfection!

But I really don't see why anyone has any other outboard!
 
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