How do I remove these?

MCL

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I am replacing the standing rigging on a mast that is of unknown age (but the boat was built in the 70s).

I have never seen mast tangs like the ones in the picture I have attached, how would I remove them? I can't see any rivets or screws holding it in place.

You can also see from the photo that the where the forestay attaches the mast has an indentation, does this need fixing? Any suggestions on the best way to go about it?

This mast is off a small trailer sailor (voyager 14) and would only ever have small loads on it, the sail area is probably comparable to a mirror dinghy.

http://bit.ly/17uw2oW

http://bit.ly/1hXfHyf
 
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Sorry for my ignorance but when you say upwards you mean counter to the direction of pull from the shroud, towards the top if the mast?
 
I removed the halyard sheave but there was insufficient room to see much, I could feel a backing plate being the tang but that was it, a dental mirror would possibly be small enough but unfortunately I don't own one!
 
Sorry for my ignorance but when you say upwards you mean counter to the direction of pull from the shroud, towards the top if the mast?

Id assume upwards was towards the top

But

Why do you want to remove them ?

If you do, dont whack them directly with a hammer. Cushion the blows with a block of wood
 
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I am replacing the standing rigging on a mast that is of unknown age (but the boat was built in the 70s).

I have never seen mast tangs like the ones in the picture I have attached, how would I remove them? I can't see any rivets or screws holding it in place.

You can also see from the photo that the where the forestay attaches the mast has an indentation, does this need fixing? Any suggestions on the best way to go about it?

This mast is off a small trailer sailor (voyager 14) and would only ever have small loads on it, the sail area is probably comparable to a mirror dinghy.

http://bit.ly/17uw2oW

http://bit.ly/1hXfHyf

Well I had no difficulty opening the link.

My first boat in 1972, with Proctor spars, had exactly the same welded tangs - it was only 22' long and really a big dinghy, so no major stresses involved.

Two points - welding can produce changes in the surrounding aluminium which can lead to fatigue fracture - secondly the damage to your forestay tang looks as though it's due to having been dropped and dented - the photo is inadequate to check if there's any cracking in the surrounding coat of anodising, which would be the first sign of any likelihood of failure.
I'd tend to take no action, any attempts to straighten the dent would, IMHO, lead to greater likelihood of impairment.
 
Why do you want to remove them ?

If you do, don't whack them directly with a hammer. Cushion the blows with a block of wood

My only reason for removing them is to inspect and replace them if required, although they look in good condition. I am also hoping that I might be able to remove the dent in the mast.
 
Well I had no difficulty opening the link.

My first boat in 1972, with Proctor spars, had exactly the same welded tangs - it was only 22' long and really a big dinghy, so no major stresses involved.

Two points - welding can produce changes in the surrounding aluminium which can lead to fatigue fracture - secondly the damage to your forestay tang looks as though it's due to having been dropped and dented - the photo is inadequate to check if there's any cracking in the surrounding coat of anodising, which would be the first sign of any likelihood of failure.
I'd tend to take no action, any attempts to straighten the dent would, IMHO, lead to greater likelihood of impairment.

So when you say they are welded tangs, if you were to remove them how would you do it, with an angle grinder? Or are they held in a keyhole type arrangement?
I am in two-minds if I can get away with just leaving them and leaving the dent, I am not bothered about the cosmetics, my only interest is in making sure it won't fail when out sailing.
 
I can't see any problem. They are obviously in a keyhole shaped slot, possibly even Vee-shaped. Pour boiling water over the fitting and try to get it to penetrate the fitting/mast interface. That will will help reduce any corrosion binding the joint. Then. as suggested, tap it towards the top of the mast using a hardwood drift as near to the mast (on the foot of the fitting)as you can. It just needs sharp taps, not great big whallops. All you need to do is move it from it's present position , then it will slide out.
 
I can't see any problem. They are obviously in a keyhole shaped slot, possibly even Vee-shaped. Pour boiling water over the fitting and try to get it to penetrate the fitting/mast interface. That will will help reduce any corrosion binding the joint. Then. as suggested, tap it towards the top of the mast using a hardwood drift as near to the mast (on the foot of the fitting)as you can. It just needs sharp taps, not great big whallops. All you need to do is move it from it's present position , then it will slide out.

Many thanks for the advice. Looking at the photos would you bother removing and replacing them? Or just leave it?
 
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