How do I keep the salon doors from sliding about in a swell?

[vas]

evening all,

previous owner on previous salon sliding doors used these 2euro crappy sliding door locks.
When I replaced the whole lot I didn't add any type of lock to keep doors in either open or closed position.
Now, whenever some fishermen zoom past to go to their berth all hell breaks loose for 3-4mins at a time with doors banging back and forth.
I do have the ladder to the f/b on port side so always have a piece of line to secure the port door open so half my problem is sorted
I'm however not so keen on getting another line from the stbrd side railings to secure the other door

...so looking for something a bit more professional and good looking.

I did buy a couple of door stops (of the press a rod to hold on the floor press a small blade under it to unlock) but realised that first of all the door is elevated about 80mm from the floor so the thing wont work (doh!) and second even if they would work I'd not be able to operate them barefoot.
So scrapped the idea and realised I have no other option to using an awful door lock like this:

Any alternatives please or I'd rather find ways to secure the stbrd door with a line as well
Ideally I'd like some permanent friction system (that doesn't eventually score the actual anodizing of the alloy!) so that I can leave the doors wherever I wish and they'll stay there (up to a say beam F4)


cheers

V.

 

[BruceK]

What about rail locks

 

[rafiki_]

We generally shut ours when cruising Vas. There is a lock that allows us to lock the door open if we desire, but I can't take a picture till I'm back on board, sorry.

 

[Hadenough]

I had a similar problem with sliding wardrobe doors (in a house) that were a pain to align. Got some self adhesive magnets from this lot.
http://www.first4magnets.com/?gclid=CM-Ghqn5k8wCFUqdGwodVYwLxg
Opposing magnets on each door, slide the door randomly and wow it stops just where you want! Give it a sharp tug a it separates. Just a thought if the doors are far enough away from your compass!

 

[aquapower]

These are quite good for sliding doors/hatches

www.asap-supplies.com/deck-fittings...folding-door-stopper-for-sliding-doors-831012

 

[vas]

guys, thanks for all replies but I have to admit I'm not aware of any of the recommended solutions!

What about rail locks

first time I see that Bruce and have no clue how it fits/works!

We generally shut ours when cruising Vas. There is a lock that allows us to lock the door open if we desire, but I can't take a picture till I'm back on board, sorry.

interested to see what Azi use Paul

I had a similar problem with sliding wardrobe doors (in a house) that were a pain to align. Got some self adhesive magnets from this lot.
http://www.first4magnets.com/?gclid=CM-Ghqn5k8wCFUqdGwodVYwLxg
Opposing magnets on each door, slide the door randomly and wow it stops just where you want! Give it a sharp tug a it separates. Just a thought if the doors are far enough away from your compass!

If I stick magnets on the sliding door, it needs some sort of metal on the other side to hold on to, right? Haven't got any

These are quite good for sliding doors/hatches

www.asap-supplies.com/deck-fittings...folding-door-stopper-for-sliding-doors-831012

looks interesting, but how does it work? Just unfolds and then? Has it got a spring or something to tension it against the door frame or something?

cheers

V.

 

[David2452]

I would think that your original choice of shoot bolts would be simplest to operate and robust method but not very stylish, some more elegant shoot bolt solutions here.
http://www.windowware.co.uk/door-hardware/door-extensions-and-shootbolts

 

[aquapower]

The stoppers I linked to simply screw to the frame and flip over when required, there's no springs to go wrong.
I try and avoid anything other than stainless fittings as anything else never seems to last once it's exposed to the sea air.

 

[Bandit]

See Trend marine. http://www.trendmarine.com/technical-spares/technical-spares/

The sliding door on my boat is made by Trend Marine and they are very good for spare parts.

I only have one segment of door that slides and it has one of the above on the inside of the door.

The track inside the door is drilled with three holes, one for wide open, one for fully closed and bolted and one for about 6 inches open for ventilation.

 

[petem]

Vas, are you saying there's a 80mm gap between the bottom of the door and the floor?

 

[vas]

I would think that your original choice of shoot bolts would be simplest to operate and robust method but not very stylish, some more elegant shoot bolt solutions here.
http://www.windowware.co.uk/door-hardware/door-extensions-and-shootbolts

thanks David, If I could find such a thing that would fit within the width of the door I'd be happier, else I'll try to avoid them

The stoppers I linked to simply screw to the frame and flip over when required, there's no springs to go wrong.
I try and avoid anything other than stainless fittings as anything else never seems to last once it's exposed to the sea air.

sorry, still confused, stoppers screw to the frame: you mean to the immovable part of the door, or the frame of the actual sliding door?
If the former, I struggle to see how it blocks the door from moving, if the latter need the floor nearby and it's 80mm down as pete asks.

Vas, are you saying there's a 80mm gap between the bottom of the door and the floor?

yep, I may have a solution though as I have a spare piece of iroko and was thinking of actually widening this lower door frame to something more substantial so I may end up adding a 45X80 piece inside in which case Bandit's solution may work.

See Trend marine. http://www.trendmarine.com/technical-spares/technical-spares/

The sliding door on my boat is made by Trend Marine and they are very good for spare parts.

I only have one segment of door that slides and it has one of the above on the inside of the door.

The track inside the door is drilled with three holes, one for wide open, one for fully closed and bolted and one for about 6 inches open for ventilation.

I already have two of them just no way to fit them unless I decide to do what I mentioned just above in replying to Pete.

cheers

V.

 

[5teve]

Don't know if it would work but one boat we have had a look at had a narrow strip of wood (with a covering on to match the carpet) with slots at either end that sat between the doors on top of the door roller channel- yes you have to remove it to close them and the system is very binary - open or shut, but if you want them open whilst aboard - its simple..

I didnt even know it was there until I went to slide the door

Steve

 

[MystereMarcus]

I have no other option to using an awful door lock like this:

That's what's fitted on mine!

 

[symondo]

top of a frame maybe?

 

[BartW]

Don't know if it would work but one boat we have had a look at had a narrow strip of wood (with a covering on to match the carpet) with slots at either end that sat between the doors on top of the door roller channel- yes you have to remove it to close them and the system is very binary - open or shut, but if you want them open whilst aboard - its simple..

I didnt even know it was there until I went to slide the door

Steve

the roller rail of our door has a solid SS strip with holes at defined positions, for holding the door in position,

then there is a SS rod, in the vertical door frame,
that can "fall" in such a defined hole on this SS strip,
to be operated bij a small lever near the door handle
there is a spring inside the door frame holding the rod down in position

my problem with this custom made doorlock; is that during opening or closing the door,
that rod is gliding over that SS strip, (if not lifted during movement) producing a awfull and load metal grinding noise !
I'm looking for a solution for that (will post pics later in my own thread)

 

[BartW]

top of a frame maybe?

that I have on the crew cabin shower door,
and on the Engine room door,

to keep them in a fixed "open" position during navigation

 

[5teve]

Would it be possible to cap the rod with nylon or similar to eliminate the scraping noise... Just a thought. Doesn't solve the issue but may do the noise

Steve

 

[BartW]

Would it be possible to cap the rod with nylon or similar to eliminate the scraping noise... Just a thought. Doesn't solve the issue but may do the noise

Steve

that rod fits quite accurately in these holes, so no gap for any capping
I had in mind to try to replace the SS rod, by a nylon or carbon fibre stick,
but it needs to be strong, as the door is quite heavy,
I'll make a separate thread with pics when I'm next time at the boat

excuses to Vas for hijacking his thread