how bad are rusty anchor chain links?

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gregcope

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Hi

My chain is, in parts, quite rusty. This has developed over the winter, so is probably quite allot of surface rust.

If I start chopping out links I will have lots of chain to reconnect as there are a few areas.

Thoughts?
 
I wouldn't chop out links, the rejoining links needed will need to be of certificated quality otherwise you might introduce poor quality joiners making the rode weaker not stronger. I'd remove the evident rust to establish whether the damage affects the link beyond the aesthetic view.
 
Robih said:
I wouldn't chop out links, the rejoining links needed will need to be of certificated quality otherwise you might introduce poor quality joiners making the rode weaker not stronger. I'd remove the evident rust to establish whether the damage affects the link beyond the aesthetic view.
Click to expand...

thanks.

Although quite rusty, and ugly, I think it is cosmetic rather than structural.

I might look at new or re-galv the existing chain.
 
I chopped out what i thought were bad links and when i looked at the cross action where i'd cut it, realised that there was probably still 98% of the original cross sectional surface area was good steel.
Wished then that I hadn't bothered, but too late; to reconnect, as i don't have a gypsy just a windlass, I am using certified green pin shackles.
 
Last time I cut off a rusted bit of chain near to the anchor swivel I dearly wished I had never started. Several hacksaw blades later it was clear that the rust was far more superficial than I had thought.
 
Unlikely in a few months for rust to have weakened the links significantly. However there will be tw problems: One is that the rust will'bleed' on to the deck, leaving stains that will be hard to remove. secondly and more seriously, if the chain is stowed wet, (as it will be the first time you use it) the rust can easily cause the links to seize while stowed, so that when you are anchoring the chain jams in the hawse pipe unexpectedly! If left the whole mass of chain will eventually corrode into a solid mass.
 
I would suggest that you try to treat the rust in situ. Oil will inhibit the rust and hopefully any tendency to rust links together. All you have to do is find an oil that does not make a terrible mess when the anchor is used. Or put up with the oily mess. good luck olewill
 
+1 to re-galvanising. A few of us northern types have recently got together and done a batch re-galv, it worked out very economical. Mine has come back with a few links stuck together but hopefully usage will free it up. The galv coating looks excellent, better than cheap new chain anyway.
 
If the chain is rusting - nothing you do now, except regalvanising, will have any positive long term effects. You have worn sufficient galvanising off - it will continue to rust. If you use it regularly you will wear away the rust - but it will continue to corrode (you just will not see it). When you have lost 10% of diameter - then is the time to retire the chain. If you do not use the chain very much it will, as suggested, corrode into one lump quite quickly. You can delay the rate of corrosion by storing it neatly on a pallet (gives good air circulation) having fresh water washed it. Storing it in an anchor locker - which are damp, humid and saturated with salt is the ideal way to encourage corrosion!

Galvanising is harder than the underlying steel - so galvanising protects from both corrosion and abrasion.

You can live with it, accepting it will continue to corrode, and knowing that in a period of time you will need new chain or you can regalvanise. Trying to coat it with oil, paint etc etc - is a complete waste of time (and money) as the oil will wear off the first time you use it and paint will not last much longer.

Consistently people who regalvanise their chain all say - the re-coated chain looks better than the original. This suggests that regalvanising is a very sensible option. However though people say regalvanised chain looks 'good' they never follow up 2 years later suggesting it remains good - and looks are, very, deceptive. Bright shiny chain is bright shiny zinc and zinc is very soft and soon wears off - its the alloyed layers underneath (that you cannot initially see) that offer abrasion and corrosion resistance.

Our chain, 50m x 8mm x G30 was in the same state as you describe, well ours was all rusty (not parts as you describe). We retired ours at the end of last year and have installed 75m x G80, High Tensile, galvanised 6mm chain. Our 8mm chain is now sitting as 2 lumps (slowly corroding further) in 2 x 20l paint pails, our 6mm chain (all 75m) filled just one pail.

Jonathan
 
Just received my 10mm chain back from the galvanisers. The bitter end (is that the correct term) had rusted quite badly in the locker but a superficial brush sort of indicated it would be OK. When the chain returned from the galvanisers it was obvious that about 2m will have to be cut off such is the depth of pitting on some of the links.

You need to inspect the 'in parts, quite rusty' bits closely and really give it a good clean to expose any pits.

If you wish to cut out lengths and rejoin the chain there are quality links available which you can have confidence in if assembled correctly. Good information here from a fellow forumite and PBO contributor: -

https://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/Pages/Clinks.aspx

I bought the Crosby joining links from another forumite who had a few and was selling surplus stock on: -

https://shop.flints.co.uk/Products/pg_Crosby_Connecting_Link (a Theatrical Chandlers!)
http://www.tecni-lift.co.uk/Crosby-8mm-G335-Chain-Missing-Link-890-kgs-WLL-221-013-138 (UK lifting company)
 
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Consistently people who regalvanise their chain all say - the re-coated chain looks better than the original. This suggests that regalvanising is a very sensible option. However though people say regalvanised chain looks 'good' they never follow up 2 years later suggesting it remains good - and looks are, very, deceptive. Bright shiny chain is bright shiny zinc and zinc is very soft and soon wears off - its the alloyed layers underneath (that you cannot initially see) that offer abrasion and corrosion resistance.
Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?451419-how-bad-are-rusty-anchor-chain-links/page2#AlprzsxPGtzfcOxR.99"

I was one of those mentioned above clubbing together to get a bulk discount on re-galvanizing. My chain has now been re-galvanized three times in its 35 years life. Perhaps it could easily have gone longer, but its convenient to re-galvanize. It lasted longer between 1st regalv and 2nd than between new and 1st re-galv.
 
Structurally it's a non-event. Cosmetically it can be a real pain.
To reduce the problem and extend correction, I end-for-end my chain @ about 5 year intervals (interestingly it appears to be the unused bight usually in the locker which rusts the worst.) Regalvanising about every 15 years (anchors require that more frequently), piggy-backing on any engineering firm who galvanises structures regularly - I've found fellow-yotties less than reliable and seldom help achieve minimum mass.
Most chandler-supplied chain is appallingly poorly galvanised (Italian-producers are the worst), I'm still using the certificated chain, made and galvanised in UK, that I took out from Cradeley Heath to Argeles in 2002. Bradeley's tell me that some Chinese manufacturers are using the machinery sold to them by European manufacturers - state-of-the-art, automatically welded and tested (every 10th link), pickled and galvanised as part of the production line - apparently none goes to retailers, all their production is premium priced direct to the handling industry.
So if you've got some OLD chain, hang onto it and service it well (mine was of the last batch they produced themselves in UK).
Mind you the chain supplied by the builder of the yacht was right rubbish as was the "imitation" anchor from SWMF, that they supplied.
 
Italian chain is marked, I think '1t' for one ton WLL and something like A4 or MG, for Maggi Group. If you can find a decent link you might find the marks. It might be that not every link is marked - you need about 1m to find them. I am not aware that Chinese chain is marked, at all (except for CMP). Maggi does not have a very high reputation for galvanising. The best galvanising is from Peerless, they stock metric chain in Germany (G40 and G70). Contact them in America for details. Vyv Cox has a chain link twist test, on his website, for the quality of galvanising adhesion (Maggi comes out rubbish when I have used the test).

Galvanising is a real issue for G70 chain - its a one use only product. Once the gal has gone and it starts to rust - you need new chain, it cannot be regalvanised. You can regal G40.

A way to clean the chain is to use it. Simply go out, anchor, deploy the lot and let the veering of the yacht allow the chain to sweep the seabed. Another way, really only works for 8mm chain, take it all off and drag along the beach (it might need two persons) bigger chain is too heavy to clean by hand. If you have vehicle access then tie to the tow bar and drag on the beach. You can end for end it for maximim effectiveness. If you have some gal left, areas where the chain is not rusty - try not to abrade them (or they will soon start to rust!) Whichever method suits works well (though you need to sweep the seabed well if using the deployed chain method). If you get the chain clean then try to freshwater wash after future usage and make sure the chain locker drains well. If the chain sits in a puddle of seawater (and mud) in the locker - it will rust!

Jonathan
 
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