ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
Where should I connect my hours run meter to? I have a Yanmar engine 2GM
Hours run meter
- Thread starter ghostlymoron
- Start date
sailorman
Well-Known Member
ignition s.w
cmedsailor
Well-Known Member
To a little lamp somewhere on the panel
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
The panel lamps and ignition switch are only energised when the engine is started and de-energise when the engine is running. If only it were that simple!
earlybird
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
The panel lamps and ignition switch are only energised when the engine is started and de-energise when the engine is running.
[/ QUOTE ]
If you keep the "ignition switch" closed while the engine is running, as per normal, the terminal marked AC, with a white wire, should be energised, and is the best supply for an hour-meter. At least it was on my 2GM20. The other side of the switch goes to the battery via the wiring loom fuse.
The panel lamps and ignition switch are only energised when the engine is started and de-energise when the engine is running.
[/ QUOTE ]
If you keep the "ignition switch" closed while the engine is running, as per normal, the terminal marked AC, with a white wire, should be energised, and is the best supply for an hour-meter. At least it was on my 2GM20. The other side of the switch goes to the battery via the wiring loom fuse.
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that 'Earlybird' I'll check my wiring next time at the boat.
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
If you wish to have true hours running connect a bridge rectifier to the 'W' terminal on the alternator or if as I have a rew water flow switch connect it to that switch as I will be doing with my new boat
cmedsailor
Well-Known Member
Sorry I am not familiar with Yanmar, but if the engine has a panel like the Volvo Pentas whereas as soon as you enganged it there is a little lamp under the fuels level, this is the lamp I was referring to. And that lamp stays on as long as the panel is activated.
But as I said this is for VP. Just an idea though...
But as I said this is for VP. Just an idea though...
cmedsailor
Well-Known Member
.... of course this way your hourmeter will be outside at the cockpit.
ShipsWoofy
Well-Known Member
I disagree, unless you are worried about the millisecond scramble to switch off the buzzer as not to wake the whole village each time you start and stop the engine.
It makes no sense to connect to the alternator,
the +12v feed from the main switch and the trip line to the engine panel.
If I can make a suggestion to the OP, if you have a digital hour meter (like me) which has a reset pin on the back... insulate it now. I knocked off 389 hours while carrying out some work on something else when I accidentally slipped and touched it with 12v.
V. Very annoying to strap up a 12v feed for 2 weeks and then 2 weekends when we had to watch like a hawk to get it back to the right place. I found the best way (hopefully) was to use a blank fully insulated crimp. So far so good (crossed fingers and touching wood)...
It makes no sense to connect to the alternator,
the +12v feed from the main switch and the trip line to the engine panel.
If I can make a suggestion to the OP, if you have a digital hour meter (like me) which has a reset pin on the back... insulate it now. I knocked off 389 hours while carrying out some work on something else when I accidentally slipped and touched it with 12v.
V. Very annoying to strap up a 12v feed for 2 weeks and then 2 weekends when we had to watch like a hawk to get it back to the right place. I found the best way (hopefully) was to use a blank fully insulated crimp. So far so good (crossed fingers and touching wood)...
ShipsWoofy
Well-Known Member
For large engine panel wiring diagram
For small (non-tacho) panel
I have some better diagrams, but I would need to scan them in, hopefully these should allow you to work out where to connect.
For small (non-tacho) panel
I have some better diagrams, but I would need to scan them in, hopefully these should allow you to work out where to connect.