Honda 2.3 4-stroke outboard clutch

[awyatybw]

My Honda 2.3HP 4-stroke outboard engine seems to have developed a problem with the clutch. I understand that this is a centrifugal design. The problem is that it does not seem to disengage at idle any more. Any suggestiosn as to how I ocould diagnose and/or rectify the problem?

Alan.

 

[fireball]

Take it all apart, clean it up and put back together - that is what I did this year .... bit of a marathon run, but easy enough to do.

 

[awyatybw]

So now I have to reveal my ignorance and that I only have the end-user handbook for the beast. You suggest that it is pretty straightforward, if a little time consuming. Where do I start?

I am an engineer but not really a mechanic. I have pretty much mastered the diesel, at least at the routine maintenance level, but the outboard is still something of a mystery.

Alan.

 

[fireball]

I really should've photographed it shouldn't I /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Ok - start off by draining the fuel tank and Oil - you will turn the engine everywhich way - so safest to drain. I just removed the fuel tank and put it to one side ... but don't recommend this!

The clutch housing is at the bottom of the engine - just inside the engine couling at the top of the leg (it would be wouldn't it!).
The leg is easily removed by undoing the bolts underneath the engine - the leg should just wiggle out with a spline that goes into the clutch.
From there you need to remove the engine couling - this actually means completely dismantling the whole engine - taking the arm, carb, exhaust and kill chord switch off ....

it is straight forward (ish) for someone with a logical mind ... I'm not a mechanic either ... ! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[celandine]

I would be tempted to leave it as it is. I find the centrifugal clutch on that engine more trouble than it's worth. On start-up the dinghy leaps forward anyway because you are starting at above the cut-in revs of the clutch; and for coming along side nice and gently you lose drive just when you need it to manouvre slowly. I used to have the earlier version of that engine that did not have a clutch, and much preferred it. It would tick over so slowly and start so easily that you did not feel the need to de-clutch.

 

[fireball]

Depends what is actually wrong with it. I'd be reluctant to leave something "broken" if I was relying on it to get me to and from the boat!!

 

[Talulah]

Is the problem that the engine will not reduce revs sufficently? If so the most likely cause of the problem is the throttle cable. At about 4 years of age the outside sheave tends to split and the little spring on top of the carberator is then not strong enough to reduce the revs sufficiently for the clutch to disengage. Fit new throttle cable. Problem solved.
Also worth mentioning that the throttle grip screw is not rust proof. This corrodes. It's not a problem when you have the split cable as there is sufficent friction to hold the throttle at the revs you set. However, when you fit the new cable you need to make sure the grip screw works as now the cable flows easier and will spring back to low revs. Hence order new grip screw as well for the handle. Both are easy to fit.

 

[awyatybw]

Thanks for the idea. No, I do no think that there is a problem with the idle speed. I have had to clean and lubricate the throttle cable, since you mention it, as it was sticking, but it now runs smoothly. Given that it does idle at very low revs, there is not very much drive being generated under such circumstances and I am tempted to go with Mick Robinson's suggestion of considering it an "added feature". But, as Fireball says, I am not really happy with something not working as designed on the basis that it might deteriorate further with unanticipated consequences.

Sounds like I'll have to put in on the "if I have time" list as, with the boat 500M from home, I will be rather short of time this winter and, more to the point, short of a workshop in which to work.

Thanks for the advice and info,
Alan.