High power in line DC plug and socket required

ProDave

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We have just taken delivery of our new boat, a Hunter Horizon 23 so this will be the first post of many as we knock it into shape.

The first question is we want a high power 2 pin in line plug and socket.

It has a Yamaha 8hp outboard in a well, and of course it would not start. So we removed it from the boat yesterday to bring it home to work on. But to remove it from the boat was harder than it needed to be as it has a pair of thick DC wires from the battery (it is electric start) and there was nowhere to disconnect them easily apart from unbolting both of them inside the engine, and to do that I had to disconnect at the battery. (Yes lots of electrical upgrades needed.)

So the first question is I am looking for an in line 2 pin plug and socket to make disconnecting of the DC cable to the outboard a simple matter of unplugging it.

At the moment I can only think of forklift truck battery connectors but they are way bigger than needed, so hoping someone will know of something more suited to this application?
 

ProDave

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Neeves

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Yes I think the really big ones are the fork lift truck connectors I was thinking of. Once I have found the rated starting current of the engine I will choose the correct size of connector.
Don't quote me but I think Anderson plugs 'look' all the same. They come in different colours, indicating different amperage. You might want to buy 'matching' in line fuses when you buy the plugs.

I initiated a thread on Anderson Plugs not long ago

Anderson Plugs

The thread summarises most of what you need to know. I knew nothing of the devices until I started the thread - asked Roger, he's a guru on such things.

I have some professional crimping tools (left by mistake by a sparky who never came back to claim them) which I used to attach the connectors (that slot into the housing). In the future I will follow advice in the thread and melt solder in the connectors (and maybe crimp as well). Our Anderson plugs, different amperage, are all grey. The biggest we use are 60 amp, but we use them for a large portable fridge (not really portable as when full it is impossible to carry), a variety of DC cooking kit, oven, microwave and solar panels

Like Roger we also have them on our 4x4.

There are a number of YouTube vids on Anderson plugs - possible links in the thread - don't recall

You will find the PBO search engine quite useful.

Jonathan
 

fredrussell

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50 amp Anderson connector will easily handle the current required by an outboard starter motor. I used the same on my 9.9 Yamaha electric start. No problems.
 

rogerthebodger

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Don't quote me but I think Anderson plugs 'look' all the same. They come in different colours, indicating different amperage. You might want to buy 'matching' in line fuses when you buy the plugs.

I initiated a thread on Anderson Plugs not long ago

Anderson Plugs

The thread summarises most of what you need to know. I knew nothing of the devices until I started the thread - asked Roger, he's a guru on such things.

I have some professional crimping tools (left by mistake by a sparky who never came back to claim them) which I used to attach the connectors (that slot into the housing). In the future I will follow advice in the thread and melt solder in the connectors (and maybe crimp as well). Our Anderson plugs, different amperage, are all grey. The biggest we use are 60 amp, but we use them for a large portable fridge (not really portable as when full it is impossible to carry), a variety of DC cooking kit, oven, microwave and solar panels

Like Roger we also have them on our 4x4.

There are a number of YouTube vids on Anderson plugs - possible links in the thread - don't recall

You will find the PBO search engine quite useful.

Jonathan

The connector dimesons do differ with current capacity

A example is 50 Amp
  • Overall dims: 48.0 (L) x 35.1 (W) x 15.9 (H) mm
  • Overall length of 2 mated connectors: 81.3 mm
120 Amp
  • Overall dims: 63.5 (L) x 46.4 (W) x 20.6 (H) mm
  • Overall length of 2 mated connectors: 104.6 mm
175 Amp

  • Overall dims: 79.6 (L) x 55.6 (W) x 25.4 (H) mm
  • Overall length of 2 mated connectors: 133.4 mm

350 Amp
  • Overall dims: 107.9 (L) x 69.9 (W) x 33.3 (H) mm
  • Overall length of 2 mated connectors: 182.6mm

Personally I have only every seen then in Gray or Red foe all sizes but other suppliers cound have different colours

My Oz Hooker dive set has a 50 Amp Anderson on the battery connection

I also use a 50 Amp Anderson connectors on my electric outboard, Lifepo4 battery and charger

I prefur to solder mine with heat shrink to avoid the distortion with crimping
 

Neeves

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The connector dimesons do differ with current capacity

A example is 50 Amp
  • Overall dims: 48.0 (L) x 35.1 (W) x 15.9 (H) mm
  • Overall length of 2 mated connectors: 81.3 mm
120 Amp
  • Overall dims: 63.5 (L) x 46.4 (W) x 20.6 (H) mm
  • Overall length of 2 mated connectors: 104.6 mm
175 Amp

  • Overall dims: 79.6 (L) x 55.6 (W) x 25.4 (H) mm
  • Overall length of 2 mated connectors: 133.4 mm

350 Amp
  • Overall dims: 107.9 (L) x 69.9 (W) x 33.3 (H) mm
  • Overall length of 2 mated connectors: 182.6mm

Personally I have only every seen then in Gray or Red foe all sizes but other suppliers cound have different colours

My Oz Hooker dive set has a 50 Amp Anderson on the battery connection

I also use a 50 Amp Anderson connectors on my electric outboard, Lifepo4 battery and charger

I prefur to solder mine with heat shrink to avoid the distortion with crimping
I confess, I've never seen the bigger plugs in the flesh and only ever seen grey ones (and pictures of other colours)

I've only crimped, but also use heat shrink. I like the idea of melting the solder into the terminals with a blow torch and then inserting the cables.

Jonathan
 

PaulRainbow

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I confess, I've never seen the bigger plugs in the flesh and only ever seen grey ones (and pictures of other colours)

I've only crimped, but also use heat shrink. I like the idea of melting the solder into the terminals with a blow torch and then inserting the cables.

Jonathan
That's very bad practice. Solder or crimp, not both.
 

Neeves

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That's very bad practice. Solder or crimp, not both.

Thank you Paul.

I'd always been told that crimping was better than soldering - but that referred to joining 2 wires together. The Anderson connectors, the metal parts, are quite large and seem to suit being filled with molten solder, held in vice, solder melted with blow torch, with the wire inserted into the molten pool.

Jonathan
 

PaulRainbow

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Thank you Paul.

I'd always been told that crimping was better than soldering - but that referred to joining 2 wires together. The Anderson connectors, the metal parts, are quite large and seem to suit being filled with molten solder, held in vice, solder melted with blow torch, with the wire inserted into the molten pool.

Jonathan
If you're soldering like that, i's absolutely fine. You are soldering the wire and both metal parts together.

I was referring to soldering and crimping. If you crimp first, there is no way to get solder in the joint, unless it was badly crimped. If you solder first, then crimp, the solder tends to migrate (heat, movement or whatever) and you get bad connection.
 

rogerthebodger

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Thank you Paul.

I'd always been told that crimping was better than soldering - but that referred to joining 2 wires together. The Anderson connectors, the metal parts, are quite large and seem to suit being filled with molten solder, held in vice, solder melted with blow torch, with the wire inserted into the molten pool.

Jonathan

That is exactly how I do the soldering.

The only time I crimp that size of wiring is if I don't have my blow torch with me
 

ean_p

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Thank you Paul.

I'd always been told that crimping was better than soldering - but that referred to joining 2 wires together. The Anderson connectors, the metal parts, are quite large and seem to suit being filled with molten solder, held in vice, solder melted with blow torch, with the wire inserted into the molten pool.

Jonathan
It would tend to be better practice to insert the conductor into the socket and heat the outside of the socket until the solder will flow by contact with the conductor. The socket and the conductor both having been coated with flux. To plunge the conductor into a molten solder pool within the socket risks having a relatively dry joint within the conductor as the conductor wicks the heat away from the solder too quickly. Its true that solder will then wick up the conductor above the limit of the socket a little but it becomes irrelevant in reality.
 

ean_p

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Alternatively google REMA DIN connectors
The REMA plug and sockets are quite good but suffer when the tension in the spring clip on the female socket weakens and promotes a rapid path to arcing and burning of the contact surfaces, even to the point where they can weld together. The action and contact feel is better in the REMA units until this decay sets in when they quickly become liabilities. The genuine Anderson product is a much more robust unit and clever in its singular unit design! Damned cheaper too! If they have a weakness its that the contact may sometimes struggle to adequately conduct a current much lower then its 'design' current at times. An example, I once had a set of jump leads using very heavy welding cables with anderson plugs on either end and connected to these again by anderson plugs were the clips with which to connect to batteries etc. I once tried to jump start a 40hp outboard and it wouldn't have it whereas a set of ordinary auto spares jump leads never failed......on reflection we could only put it down to the plug connections.......and yes all soldered as usual!
 

ProDave

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Thanks for all the replies.

The battery is 2 bulkheads away so can't disconnect there.

It just seemed to me poor design that the OB has an in line plug and socket for the control cables to the start switch but not an inline connector for the power leads. so it will have now. I will order that set of 50A connectors that will give me an in line pair on the boat, and a separate one to connect to a battery while it is off the boat for servicing. That should be a neat sollution.
 

alan_d

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The genuine grey 50A Anderson plugs are not compatible with red Anderson plugs.They are keyed slightly different meaning they will not plug into each other.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
I think the different colours do not indicate current capacity but are intended as a guide to making appropriate connections. I have a portable winch with grey and yellow connectors - one coloured pair connects the controller to the 12 volt supply while the other colour connects the controller to the winch.
 
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