Help with my boat's spinnaker rigging points?

[chrisbitz]

I'm guessing 1a is the top of the Spinnaker, and 1c is the uphaul... so what's 1b? it's not the jib, as that's another much thicker haliard..?


someone mentioned that spinnaker guys should lead to the rear of the boat - might these be for that, or are they just for the lifelines?


What would the cam cleat at 3a be for?
3b is a ring that appears to lead diagonally to a cleat next to 3e on the corner of the coachroof..
3c why would you have this, if you have a genoa lead car? (think that's what it's called?)


there's nothing that looks like a downhaul ring on the deck, other than a ring just behind the base of the forestay, but that feels like it's a long way forward for a downhaul? There are also spare pulleys on either side at the base of the mast, but doesn't the downhaul need to be central?



I appreciate this question may be a bit jumbled, but before I can ask someone to show me a spinnaker, I need to be sure it's all capable of being rigged!

thanks for any advice!

 

[PeteCooper]

If 1b is just above the forestay then that's the halyard and 1c is the pole downhaul. The pole downhaul could be through the two spare blocks at the mast foot and through a block on the pole.
I would fasten the turning blocks on the U bolts at the stern and see how it all works.

 

[saltylegs]

As above if 1b is above forestay that's the halyard, I don't think your boat would have been designed with a masthead spinny which would be the 1a line.
1c is the pole uphaul, clam cleat 3a can be used as the guy control (windward sheet to the pole) and as its far forward this does away with the need for a downhaul.
use the aft u bolts for the turning blocks for the sheets.
so one sheet to each clew of the spinny running through the aft mounted blocks but which ever sheet is used to control the pole you then take that through the forward cleat as it has a side opening.

 

[William_H]

I think your boat has been set up for either a mast head spin or a normal spin. The mast head spin would be really big light material only used for very light conditions. I don't think the mast top section could cope with side loads of a big spin in stronger winds. So you use a smaller spin from just above the forestay where mast is well supported.

I think also the boat may have been set up for tweakers to do the job of down haul. Here each spin sheet goes through a pulley on the end of a rope which is led to another pulley attached to the side deck about half way mast to bow. This rope then goes back top the cockpit for adjustment and cleating. So the brace is hauled down to deck level by the appropriate tweaker which then holds the pole down. Gybe the spin and you release that tweaker and haul on the other side. Or as saltylegs says you can pull the guy down into the forward cleat. Although I would rather a hook than a cleat which could stop adjustment of the brace. I think you will soon dislike that arrangement.
The problem I have found with tweakers is that they restrict the aft movement of the pole when running. So you want the pulley for the tweakers mounted as far back as possible. However they need to be well forward to give a powerful down haul to the brace. So it is a compromise. You can allow the pole further back when running by easing the tweaker as you don't need so much down pull. But when shy you need all the down pull you can get. This is how most racing KBs are around here.
I have tried reasonably successfully 2 down hauls coming from pulleys again about half way mast to bow but on the gunwhale. When gybing spin you have to change down hauls.
Yes use the U bolts on the stern quarters for spin sheet blocks.
Those cleats on the side deck look pretty useless to me. good luck olewill