Help please

Mavric

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i put my boat on the water it ran like like crap and wouldn’t get on a plane it kept on cutting out I realised after that i hadn’t opened the tank breather maybe that was the running problem ? also i couldn’t get gears coming back when i got home i noticed the control cable had come adrift so i re connected it but now it wont start ? ive tried for an hour no joy .

 
i put my boat on the water it ran like like crap and wouldn’t get on a plane it kept on cutting out I realised after that i hadn’t opened the tank breather maybe that was the running problem ? also i couldn’t get gears coming back when i got home i noticed the control cable had come adrift so i re connected it but now it wont start ? ive tried for an hour no joy .

I think the bogging down and cutting was due to the breather on the tank not being open ?
 
i put my boat on the water it ran like like crap and wouldn’t get on a plane it kept on cutting out I realised after that i hadn’t opened the tank breather maybe that was the running problem ? also i couldn’t get gears coming back when i got home i noticed the control cable had come adrift so i re connected it but now it wont start ? ive tried for an hour no joy .

IS it in neutral? Does it KNOW it's in neutral?
 
It ran crap mate I think that was down to fuel tank vent , on way back couldn’t get gear or neutral found out control cable came adrift so re connected it at home but it wont start now mate getting really annoyed with it now only had it on water twice i fitted a new starter solenoid last week and turned over started
 
just wont fire up
Won't fire, or won't turn over? Different things, with simple checks (ie, is the fuel fresh? is the battery charged? Are the plugs wet?) Do the checks in turn and it'll run, even if it sounds like a bag of spanners like in that video.

You say it's in neutral, but does it know it's in neutral? They can be quite picky about the exact spot within neutral - at least mine is. Having had the cable come adrift it might need a little adjustment.
 
Fuel is fresh , battery is full ,the plugs were wet dried out and heated on gas cooker , he ran fine a month ago then i had to change the starter solenoid because it had an intermittent start problem by which i mean turning the key did nothing and then it would work hence starter solenoid change .
 
Fuel is fresh , battery is full ,the plugs were wet dried out and heated on gas cooker , he ran fine a month ago then i had to change the starter solenoid because it had an intermittent start problem by which i mean turning the key did nothing and then it would work hence starter solenoid change .
It wont fire it turns over fast and fine
 
Fuel is fresh , battery is full ,the plugs were wet dried out and heated on gas cooker , he ran fine a month ago then i had to change the starter solenoid because it had an intermittent start problem by which i mean turning the key did nothing and then it would work hence starter solenoid change .
Check for spark
 
From my classic bike experience.

2 T s have a capacitor which can go bad like this .Runs rough then completely dies . It should be earthed to the frame or in this case the motor casing .Often it’s bolts slightly corrodes , so a simple fix of sand papering it down making sure it got a good contact cures it ?

Or plugs but it’s got three .Have you replaced them recently and are they the correct spec ?
I say this because the wrong temp ( say cooler ) fitted eventually go bad if they get too hot for a few hrs running and aren’t cut out for high temps .

As kev says “ check for spark “ with all three of them .Not only if there is spark in absolute terms but it’s quality and the plug gapping .A faint hint of spark where you cup your hands arounds to see it = it’s dud .Needs to be bright blue very visible even in sunlight .

Next ( ashore ) check the points and timing , should have a hand book for this .Sometimes there’s a smaller capacitor next to the points that’s goes bad , looses it connection .

When it heats up or after a short while with current the capacitors if bad play up .


Remember
1-Fuel
2-Spark …..at the right time + quality+ right plug
3- compression

Its all it needs .
 
Last edited:
From my classic bike experience.

2 T s have a capacitor which can go bad like this .Runs rough then completely dies . It should be earthed to the frame or in this case the motor casing .Often it’s bolts slightly corrodes , so a simple fix of sand papering it down making sure it got a good contact cures it ?

Or plugs but it’s got three .Have you replaced them recently and are they the correct spec ?
I say this because the wrong temp ( say cooler ) fitted eventually go bad if they get too hot for a few hrs running and aren’t cut out for high temps .

As kev says “ check for spark “ with all three of them .Not only if there is spark in absolute terms but it’s quality and the plug gapping .A faint hint of spark where you cup your hands arounds to see it = it’s dud .Needs to be bright blue very visible even in sunlight .

Next ( ashore ) check the points and timing , should have a hand book for this .Sometimes there’s a smaller capacitor next to the points that’s goes bad , looses it connection .

When it heats up or after a short while with current the capacitors if bad play up .


Remember
1-Fuel
2-Spark …..at the right time + quality+ right plug
3- compression

Its all it needs .
Hi capacitors ? do you mean rectifier , coil pack ive got normal spark plugs in it ngk, ive been told i need this type of plug but dont know
 

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I did notice the plugs were wet when removed , so cleaned and heated up but no start , if i had noticed the vent wasn't open it may have ran fine because thats first time its been on water since ive had it , it ran fine a week ago in my barrel , think i need someone in birmingham yo have look at it to get running properly the gear cable popped off my fault probably for not tightening the clamp down enough but thats back on now just wont fire up engine number in photo . Dont know year if it has black or red stator i checked battery when engine was running it stayed at 12.43 volts .
 

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Might be a bit high but backup on the exhaust once afloat may decrease rpm. Also you need to make sure that it ticks over in gear, again afloat. As it is around 1000rpm I would leave alone and adjust later.
 
It did bog down last time out but i think that was to do with not opening the breather on the tank .i think the rough running , hard to start and cutting out before was to do with the rectifier so i fitted s new one and it seems to run fine now ?
 
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