Help needed with mast foot

sereda

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I recently bought a 1981 Jaguar 21 and the mast foot is missing. I cannot find for certain who the mast manufacturer is, does any body recognise the photo below. I am sure it must have been fitted to other makes of boat as well as the Jaguar.
I would like to buy a new one, buy a secondhand one or borrow one then I can have one made from a block of ali.

mast foot.jpg

Thanks
 
The mast base quite likely either got broken when the mast swung sideway in traverse down in lowering or the sheaves seized up and the casting was broken in trying to free them.
If you can find an identical replacement that would of course be ideal. I can't help you there. However if all else fails you can change the halyards to exiting through slots in the side of the mast about 1 metre up from the bottom. (make each slot a different level to the others to avoid weakening the mast. You will need then to attach turning blocks on saddles bolted through the roof near to the base of the mast.
This then leaves the actual mast pivot needed. Mine is somewhat similar in that the mast sits ona kind of spine. The mast itself has two halves of ali welded across the bottom so leaving a slot. 2 lugs are welded on the aft side of the mast to take the pivot.
It actually works very well as the lugs being close together can handle more side swing of the mast than wider spaced lugs.
Anyway these ideas are only a fall back position so do PM me if you want to discuss fabricating something different to that in the picture. good luck olewill
 
Sereda,

that looks like a Holt Allen mast / step, they were also fitted to production Anderson 22's.

I have found Sailspar extremely helpful, and they have a selection of mast steps; you'll need to quote the mast dimensions of course.

01206 251348, no personal connection.
 
I have a mast foot (Kemp) that might fit although it came from a much bigger boat.If you let me know the dimensions I can check.
 
Sereda,

that looks like a Holt Allen mast / step, they were also fitted to production Anderson 22's.

I have found Sailspar extremely helpful, and they have a selection of mast steps; you'll need to quote the mast dimensions of course.

01206 251348, no personal connection.

=1 they were helpful to me several years ago when I was in a similar position.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, I will give them (sailspar) a try before going down the home made route.
Will have a look at Holt-Allen website as well.
The profile is very similar to a Z-Spars Z-130 mast, but they do not recognise it as being one of theirs.
Thanks,
John
 
For this size of mast a stainless steel tabernacle would be ideal, making
raising and lowering a more secure proposition.

Stainless steel and aluminium don't mix too well, a lot of corrosion unless separated by zinc chromate paste such as ' Duralac ', available from most good chandlers.

A 21' boats' mast should be easily raised or lowered, I do this with my girlfriend on a 22' boat which has a simple pivotted mast step.
 
Stainless steel and aluminium don't mix too well, a lot of corrosion unless separated by zinc chromate paste such as ' Duralac ', available from most good chandlers.

A 21' boats' mast should be easily raised or lowered, I do this with my girlfriend on a 22' boat which has a simple pivotted mast step.


Been there, built the tabernacle in aluminium but my sailing crew built his from stainless using spacers to solve the corrosion problem.

Harken Tef-Gel Anti-Corrosion Paste is far superior to Duralec. I doesn't run all over the place for a start!
 
Been there, built the tabernacle in aluminium but my sailing crew built his from stainless using spacers to solve the corrosion problem.

Harken Tef-Gel Anti-Corrosion Paste is far superior to Duralec. I doesn't run all over the place for a start!

Tokolashe,

if you say so, but I've been there too, involved in the building of fighter aeoplanes consisting of L72 alloy, stainless and titanium where money was almost no object - zinc chromate paste such as Duralac was standard for the alloy bits.
 
Tokolashe,

if you say so, but I've been there too, involved in the building of fighter aeoplanes consisting of L72 alloy, stainless and titanium where money was almost no object - zinc chromate paste such as Duralac was standard for the alloy bits.

"Ya pays ya money and ya takes ya choice".

I have experience of the Duralec type product close to 40 years of spar fit outs. Yes Duralec is probably the
long term industry standard but the modern, syringe applied, Tef-Gel gets my vote.

ps Are aeoplanes flown by Aeolians? (Just goshing!)
 
I am thinking tabernacle might have to be the way to go. All my emails to the spar manufacturers are coming back sorry not one of ours - can't help, etc
Somebody must have built them and they must have been fitted to other types of boat.
Off to read up on tabernacles now - and corrosion.
 
Been there, built the tabernacle in aluminium but my sailing crew built his from stainless using spacers to solve the corrosion problem.

Harken Tef-Gel Anti-Corrosion Paste is far superior to Duralec. I doesn't run all over the place for a start!

"Ya pays ya money and ya takes ya choice".

I have experience of the Duralec type product close to 40 years of spar fit outs. Yes Duralec is probably the
long term industry standard but the modern, syringe applied, Tef-Gel gets my vote.

ps Are aeoplanes flown by Aeolians? (Just goshing!)

I am thinking tabernacle might have to be the way to go. All my emails to the spar manufacturers are coming back sorry not one of ours - can't help, etc
Somebody must have built them and they must have been fitted to other types of boat.
Off to read up on tabernacles now - and corrosion.

Not sure that the use of Tef-Gel or Duralac is applicable to something where the parts will be designed to moved relative to each other.

Generally speaking Tef Gel is probably the best bet between closely fitting components whereas a barium chromate paste, such as Duralac, probably better at gap filling between components that are not a neat fit.

Tef-gel is teflon based and is effective because it keeps water out of the joint. I assume barium chromate has some corrosion inhibiting properties but yet to find an explanation.
 
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