Help needed guys.

[New Boater]

Hi all,

I had the boat out of the water today.

I have VP DP-E (1.95) out drives

Dipped the oil and one is milky

Can someone tell me what seals I need to change to remedy this?

I have the props off already and can see some seals, do I have to go further than that?

If there is a link to a guide that would be great too but I can’t find anything that doesn’t show a complete tear down. Really would like to do it myself as I need new props too and can’t stretch to paying loads on labour too.

 

[New Boater]

UPDATE!

It looks like the gearbox seal, hoping that one is easier to do!

Now how do I get rid of the milky oil???

I’m guessing I just keep putting cheap oil through until it is clear and then put the good stuff in?

Anyone here done the Gearbox seal before?

Tell me it’s easier?!

Thanks all

 

[rafiki_]

You have to drain the contaminated oil out, replace the damaged seals, and probably the bellows. This is not an easy job, so unless you are a highly competent technician, with all the required tools, get some professional help. Where is your boat located?

 

[New Boater]

Hiya Rafiki,

I am in Kent.

Quite happy on the tools on motorbikes and cars bit these outdrives are new tech to me

When you say Bellows do you mean the large and smaller flexible black ribbed tubes?

Does the oil go in there as well???

I am guessing the gearbox shares oil with the bottom shafts etc?

Loads came out a good couple of litres I reckon

When I bought the boat last year the oil was like honey on both sides

When I dipped her today Starboard was milky, took the selector cover off and there was milky residue around the seal!

Is there a guide to changing these seals you know of?

 

[Boaty_Pete]

If you're very new to this, it makes sense to involve a local marine engineer.
It's very likely you can work together so that you learn what's needed.
It'll be a fairly regular task to service all this if you keep the boat, and it's normal for owners to do it, once they've learned what to look for and the pitfalls. Some outdrives require a couple of special tools to be added to the toolbox.
(You don't know what you don't know, yet. And getting evey bit of knowledge here isn't gonna work well enough at this point)
I've been working on my own boats for 30yrs but never actually had outdrives. I'm pretty handy but for a 1st season servicing them, I'd be looking to learn from one of the local engineer guys.
Good luck.

 

[oldgit]

The Unvarnished Truth.
Do not mess about, nothing worse than doing half the job and then having to lift the boat again a few weeks/months later.
The real money and aggro is getting the boat out of the water and loss of your boaty time afloat.
The cost of a few bits of rubber rubber will pale in comparison.
You need first to discover what has failed, various little tricks to do this.
Most probably prop shaft seals ( hopefully no wear grooves in shafts, a known temporary trick to get over this) or the gearshift seal.
Their are a couple of places in Kent that are prepared to advertise the fact they fix outdrives , both of them are either the Bees Knees or a bunch of T******s dependant on who you talk too.
They might come to you, under duress ,or you can take your leg(s) to them, do not hold your breath, problem is at this time of year they are literally overwhelmed with work.
There are a few lone wolfs with van out there who will do decent job but finding one who................
A, Is not booked up until the second coming......
or
B Will actually turn up........
Will be a challenge.
Many folks on here have successfully jumped in with both feet, usually due to either poverty of plain meanness and had ago at fixing leg problems suprising themselves (and possibly others ) at how easy it was.
Search on here or the interweb, apart from searhing for Porn, fixing outdrives , was the reason Google was invented.
You really do need a good mate around to help, it will make the job much easier.
Where in Gods own County are you ?

 

[simonfraser]

Volvopaul on here can no doubt help, he’s probably sitting around having a smoke waiting for work though

 

[Momac]

The leg must be raised to drain out all the oil
You could flush with some fresh oil while turning the props.
Leave it to drain for a day or longer if you can.
A pressure and vacuum test can be carried out but you do need the equipment to do this.
If the pressure/vacuum test passes then refill with oil using new O rings on the dipstick and drain plugs and a new fibre washer on the filler plug.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Hi all,

I had the boat out of the water today.

I have VP DP-E (1.95) out drives

Dipped the oil and one is milky

Can someone tell me what seals I need to change to remedy this?

I have the props off already and can see some seals, do I have to go further than that?

If there is a link to a guide that would be great too but I can’t find anything that doesn’t show a complete tear down. Really would like to do it myself as I need new props too and can’t stretch to paying loads on labour too.

I have a 2003 manual that covers models up to DP 290-C not sure what changes between those and the DP-E. You're welcome to a copy, PM me an email address.

 

[DavidJ]

The leg must be raised to drain out all the oil
You could flush with some fresh oil while turning the props.
Leave it to drain for a day or longer if you can.
A pressure and vacuum test can be carried out but you do need the equipment to do this.
If the pressure/vacuum test passes then refill with oil using new O rings on the dipstick and drain plugs and a new fibre washer on the filler plug.

I understand where you are coming from @Momac but even if it passes the test I would forever worry that the problem will return at some time during the season and very possibly wreck the leg. These legs are under a lot of stress and need oil to be in the very best condition.
Most of us on here are from similar practical backgrounds to yourself @New Boater . I bet not many have attempted a leg oil seal change, bellows yes, that’s a job every 2 years.

 

[Momac]

I understand where you are coming from @Momac but even if it passes the test I would forever worry that the problem will return at some time during the season and very possibly wreck the leg.

To many people worry too much. It probably explains why some boats are used so little.

 

[stelican]

The leg must be raised to drain out all the oil
You could flush with some fresh oil while turning the props.
Leave it to drain for a day or longer if you can.
A pressure and vacuum test can be carried out but you do need the equipment to do this.
If the pressure/vacuum test passes then refill with oil using new O rings on the dipstick and drain plugs and a new fibre washer on the filler plug.

Interested to know why the leg needs to be lifted to drain the oil please.

 

[Momac]

Interested to know why the leg needs to be lifted to drain the oil please.

This is to ensure all of the oil drains out.

 

[New Boater]

Thanks for the advice guys!

This job couldn’t have been easier, cover off, linkage off, selector out, roll pin out, new seal in and put it all back.

Good advice on raising the leg, that got the last of the milk shake out.

Flushed the leg out a couple of times with old oil from my motorbike and let her drain out for a couple of days.

Filled her up again and spun the drive with a drill to get everything moving let that sit for a day and the oil came out clean as, now to put the good oil in when it arrives.