Heater/Dehumidifier

[Mister_Smee]

Hi all,
Just a short one (said the actress to the bishop)
Over the winter I am keeping my boat in the water and using her as the weather allows. Boat is a 2 mnth old Monterey 250 8.2m long with 4 berth cabin 240hp Yanmar diesil engine.
What do people do with their own boats in this position with regard to the use of heaters and or dehumidifiers over the winter?
Namely do people place both in the cabin and a small heater in the engine compartment or do you just drain all of the fresh water system and refill after winter. Havent done either yet but with the cold fast approaching need to think about getting organised now.
All help gratefully appreciated.
Tnx Stuart

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Moose]

a) Change engine oil
b) Leave cooling system as it is
c) Put 300+W tube heater in the engine bay
d) Put combined Heater/Dehumdifier in cabin, draining into the sink
e) Use the boat as much as possible.

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.phantom37.co.uk>http://www.phantom37.co.uk</A>
Moose

 

[Mister_Smee]

Tnx for the info,
Cooling system has antifreeze in already, the engine has only done 15 hours so far, as its new would you still change the oil?
Would a combined unit from a well known DIY supplier be adequate or do I need to go to the swindlery?
Trying to use boat as much as possible its just the weather of late although managed a couple of hours this morning before watching a dreadful game of football at St Mary's, should have stayed on the water!!!
Cheers

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[longjohnsilver]

Neither. Good ventilation is the key. Assume you've got anti freeze in the engine.

If you're in seawater then that will remain above freezing keeping the hull relatively warm.

Lots of people use heaters and dehumidifiers, all a bit of a fad IMHO. Do you put a heater under your car in the winter? And it gets much colder on land! I'm suprised they dont take them a hot water bottle and tuck them up in a high tog quilt. ;-))

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[steverow]

As Moose said, but in addition I also use a small fan on a timer to come on 15 mins in every hour in the saloon, to stop any water droplets settling on me brass bits!
Has worked well over the last two winter seasons.

Steve


<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[PhilF]

colder, but not wetter.
Cars have less window space and generally better window seals.
Also I dont keep much bedding in the car to kep dry.
Its not mollycoddling, just good sense

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[DavidJ]

Ref oil change, have a look at your engine warrenty. There are strict guidelines to your qualification to warrenty claims so essencial to stick by them.
David

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[longjohnsilver]

Agreed, was talking more about the engines(s) being kept warm, also meant to be slightly tongue in cheek.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[mjf]

I do the heater / dehumidifer bit with the accomodation - certainly the cabins / bedding / seats / carpet etc all keep dry and smell free.

The E/R has massive air vents (to allow engines to breath) so not sure the wisdom of heating the harbour! Surely if you have antifreeze in the right places and the boat is sitting in 5/10 degree water whats the issue. I think it better to ventilate this area 'naturally'.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Alistairr]

What about Mercruiser engines? As far as i know, Ours doesn't have an enclosed cooling system, that enables you to put anti-freeze into.



<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://arweb.co.uk/argallery/alistair?&page=1> My Pictures, Please take a Look.</A>

 

[mjf]

I had a mercuiser but did not own it where is does below 15 degrees in the winter so cannot help.

Thinking about it I remember checking oil / hydr oil etc but never fresh water so you might be right. I am sure that a 'higher authority' will advise momentarily.....

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Col]

Main reason for tubes in eng compartment is to stop condensation on & in engine. Cars have more ventilation around engine bay and get used more often (You don't park your car up for 6 months in the winter do you?)

Condensation can cause rust on pulleys (which will eat your drive belts) can cause valves to stick and bores to rust.
Of course, if boat is used weekly through winter, the above applies to a much lesser amount.

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.arweb.co.uk/argallery/colspics> Cols Picture Album</A>

 

[longjohnsilver]

Well you proabably use yours as much as me if not more. In over 15 yrs have not used a heater in enjin compartment and no problems so far...........................................touch wood!

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Mister_Smee]

Well sounds like, a cheap heater/dehumidifier in the cabin then, to keep things all nice and dry.
Anyone recommend a good reasonably priced unit??
I am hoping to use the boat right through the winter even if only for a couple of hours a week. Famous last words

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Col]

B&Q for under an 'undred quid

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.arweb.co.uk/argallery/colspics> Cols Picture Album</A>

 

[benjenbav]

I have a separate dehumidifier and electric radiator both bought from B&Q/Homebase which I have run on timers over the last two winters and which, combined with good ventilation, have kept all cushions and bedding nice and dry.

If memory serves, the dehumidifier was about £80 and the radiator about £40.

It takes a bit of trial and error to get the settings right without heating the whole marina!

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Geoffs]

Mercruiser do give a procedure for filling raw cooled engines with antifreeze, in the manual.

Involves filling the engine through thermostat housing. Some people run antifreeze from a container through water inlets via muffs.

I tend to just drain the block exhaust manifold and pipes, again using procedure in manual. Boat gets used in wainter, and run every couple of weeks.

I guess the antifreeze route gives corrosion protection as well, rather important in raw water cooled engines.

<hr width=100% size=1>Old Chinese proverb 'Man who sail boat into rice field, soon get into paddy'

 

[Mister_Smee]

I think a trip to B&Q will be in order this weekend then for the items.
The Yanmar engine has a seperate water system around the engine which allows antifreeze to be added then uses a sea water heatexchanger to move heat away from the engine, the system has antifreeze recently added, so should be ok.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[dasw]

Hi Mr. Smee...

Just our 2c's worth.....

A humidifier is great but it needs to be one that drains through a pipe and not simply into a container as the container just fills up in no time and the water just runs out onto whatever surface the humidifier is standing on.... so stood on the galley with the drain pipe running into the sink is best. A unit with a humidistat is favourite as it saves the unit running endlessly when not needed. Also boats with wood on board don't want to have the wood totally dried out.

The engine area does need protecting as well. Whilst the sea itself does not often freeze a lot of coastal marinas have a high freshwater content as they are at the mouths of rivers or they are locked marinas topped up by streams etc...... and even though sea water may not freeze very often when it is in the sea if you were to put a cup of sea water ashore it most certainly would freeze on a cold night. The engine situation is much the same. It has seawater in the exchangers etc. and they can and do freeze up.

A couple of tubular heaters, suitably mounted on backing boards do the job well. Some clients will simply lay them in the engine bay but be careful they are not touching wires and cooling pipes etc. We attended a boat a couple of years ago where a so-called marine professional had just laid loose tubular heaters in the engine bay. They were sitting on various bits of wiring and pipework and the incoming sea water pipe was on the brink of failing whereupon the boat would have sunk.

If one is using the boat regularly it can be a pain retrieving these and putting them back each time so some clients will permanently mount the heating tubes and run a permanent cable through to the main breaker panel. That way nothing needs to be done - when you disconnect shorepower to go boating they are off and when you plug back in they are on... provided the relevant breaker is on at the panel.

The other issue in the engine bay is condensation. Those tubular heaters will just keep things a few degrees warmer so reducing the likelihood of moisture choosing to condense on your engine. One of the great things about your Yanmar is that it doesn't have a stack of wiring and connectors around to suffer from condensation and consequent corrosion but nonetheless keeping the engine free of condensation is a wise move.

There is lots more that could be said but one last comment about shorepower. If one leaves shorepower on for extended periods it is very important to keep an eye on the engine and drive anodes. Your boat is fitted with a galvanic isolator which is designed to reduce this risk but your outdrive leg can present a lovely large earth for any nearby problems such as a boat with a wiring problem to leak power to etc. An easy check is to just raise the drive at regular intervals to make sure the ram end anodes are all OK. These are the most easily seen and also usually the soonest to wear so can give a good early warning.

There is always more that could be said but this gives a good basis on which to start!

Kind regards,

David


<hr width=100% size=1>