Headsail tack attachment - two hooks, no hole

What an odd fitting. I don't think it can have been intended for a normal jib tack, although I can't guess what it was actually for.

I would probably bar-tack a webbing loop just large enough to slip over one hook at a time, so that the webbing runs over the top chainplate between the bottlescrew and the hooks, then under the hook on each side, then upwards aft of the hooks. Then put a shackle through the top of the loop, and seize the two sides together just below the shackle so that the loop can't fit back round the hooks. An equivalent lashing would do the job too, albeit slightly less finished-looking - I just like doing bar-tacks on my sewing machine :p

Pete
 
I don't have an answer but I would advise you to not provide access to your private photos. Better to post one image only. The world is full of wolves who prey on the unwary.
 
Thanks for the warning. I went in and locked all the family albums. I can't post images here yet, so I left the boat album open for all to see.

I think the tack was meant to be loose - I found a couple of rubber padded snatch blocks with flip open snap shackles. I think these attached to the jib/genoa tack cringle and a line ran to a block at the fitting and back to the cockpit to tension the sail??
 
I know it seems counter intuitive but I think the tack just goes on the hook as it is. to get it on you will have to 'invert' the cringle to start it going on so that it ends up the right way up. As soon as you hoist it can't come off because of the luff tension. Hope that makes sense.

yoda
 
Perhaps this picture might help:

dixie%2027%20jib%20tack_zpsedmcdn9j.png


It is a screen grab from here:

 
prv said:
That fitting's different though - the hooks are upright whereas the OP's are horizontal.

Pete
Click to expand...

Yes, that's clear enough. However, he can still check how he can drill a hole on that fitting, just large enough to take the pin of a shackle; it shouldn't be too difficult, even if done in situ.

Re the present set-up with horizontal hooks, I wouldn't be too happy with a vertical tension on that welding. Unless he has a use for the hooks in that particular configuration I would take an angle grinder to them and put a hole in their place.
 
yoda said:
I know it seems counter intuitive but I think the tack just goes on the hook as it is. to get it on you will have to 'invert' the cringle to start it going on so that it ends up the right way up. As soon as you hoist it can't come off because of the luff tension. Hope that makes sense.

yoda
Click to expand...

I believe this is correct.
A bit difficult to see in the OP:s picture, but the central part of the "bar" is not horizontal, but slopes down before forming the "horns" either side. So when the luff is tensioned, the tack stays where it should be.
Remember this type of fitting from the period, but never used myself. The idea was to make fast sail changes, I believe.
 
I suspect a lot of posters are relating more to their firling jib which has tension on all the time. I think the hooks while they might hold the jib once it is tensioned would be a pain with the jib tack falling off any time jib is dropped. I would not even want to trust hooks facing down (usual type) for my type of operation. ie lots of short spin runs with jib dropped.
My son was on a friends boat near me when the wind came up and a smaller jib was called for. Small jib was hanked on but somehow the tack attachment was forgotten. The small jib was hoisted and went up with the tack out of reach. Had to get a boat hook to snag it and pull down once out of strong wind.
So I like an attachment that is locked positive.
I would suggest 2 parallel SS plates with holes in to fit onto the main clevis pin with a bolt and nut for the tack cringle. Or as said drill a hole in the bow fitting. (difficult) Or a real bodge of lashing a snap shackle onto the 2 horns with locking wire. or 2 SS plattes each over each horn then bolted together then a snap shackle between the plates. The old brain is on fire this morning. (Perth Oz time.)
I use a snap shackle attached to the bow fitting and a shackle on each jib to go over the snap shackle.
What is desirable is to get the tack as close to the forestay as possible to keep load off hanks and to counteract the load of aft pull when jib is sheeted in hard. good luck olewill
 
Thanks to you all for your input. Launch is scheduled for Friday. I will attempt cringle directly on the hook and see how that goes. Will report back!
 
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