Headlining

[jonlaw]

I have a Feeling 1090, the head lining around the galley is falling down.
It is a soft material coated with a thin film of insulation.
I have tried numerous methods to 'stick it'.
Question ??
Should I remove ithe insulation and all debris ??
Is there any product that I can use to attach ?

Please help !!



John Lawrance

 

[Sea Devil]

There is another thread running at the moment called foam backed vynil which might interest you.

It is a horrid job. once the foam begins to crumble and sag there is no option but to take it all down, clean the glue and bits off and start again - either with more foam back or with felt back(cheaper) It is a dirty and expensive job so good luck.

Google Hawk House - they have all the materials, glues and glue get off items and are really helpful.. Have a look at the Foam Backed Vinyl thread as there are several of us actually doing the job at the moment and some useful experience.

Michael

 

[Tisme]

I have a Feeling.

No amount of botching will fix it. At some stage you will have to take the bull by the horns and start again. Sorry!

 

[VicS]

I agree with what has already been said. Hawke House, now in Gosport, are good, but may not be the cheapest, for materials and advice. The little booklet I got from them was very useful.

This is a topic which crops up regularly so a search right back for the full 2 years will turn up lots of useful tips. By searching for YBW + "head lining" using Google you will probably be able to go back further.

If you think heat from the galley is a factor which has caused premature failure line the affected area with thin sheet aluminium. You can get some with a patterned surface from the big diy stores.

 

[Dipper]

You can do a temporary repair until the end of the season with Copydex but it will look lumpy.

What has happened is that the foam is disintergrating - it eventually turns into a powder so the vinyl falls off. It has probably gone first near the cooker due to the steam and heat in this area but the rest of it will start falling down over the next season.

I am halfway through replacing all of mine at the moment but I ran out of time before the boat was launched. It's a big job to do a whole boat and quite laborious removing the old vinyl and glue but for many people it is too expensive to have it done professionally.

I got my vinyl and glue from Toomer and Hayter but you can also get them from Hawke House.

 

[Tisme]

Or you can use Boyriven. Their range is more limited than the two main players but they had what I wanted and their prices were better.

 

[Talbot]

I have said this in earlier threads and if you have already read it then I apologise but:
<span style="color:blue"> My boat suffered from the same problem (droopy headlining). I investigated this at length. The same material that was used originally is still available, but the foam is now fire retardent and is not expected to last more than 10 years. Many lining specialists advocate replacing the lining in squares (approx. 2' square) which are individually secured to the ceiling. The main advantage is that if you need to resecure anything on the deck above (e.g. winches, genoa track etc) then it is easy. The main disadvantage with this method is that it lowers the ceiling, and it is already slightly too low for me (6'2"). I was unwilling to use the vinyl/foam product because of the cost/expected replacement period. I then thought about using carpet. The foam carpet would probably suffer from the same problem as the existing headlining, however, there is a new (relatively) carpet which is felt backed. I thought this might be suitable and it is also pretty cheap for a lightweight carpet. I then looked at glue. A specialist warned me that most glues used by the lining companies are fine in this climate, but would start to melt if the boat was taken further south. They recommended that the best glue would be that used in the car trade. I then managed to twist the arm of my friendly carpet fitter and his mate to agree to do it. I decided to remove the old lining and the residual glue myself - this is a very messy job, best done with the inside of the boat totally cleared of everything else. I really recommend the dyson for this task! I then (with a lot of help from my son!!) removed the old glue back to clean fibreglass. You can get a flap wheel designed for this from the headlining people, but I used a brass cup wire brush mounted in a small angle grinder - but it must be brass, and the grinder should be running at a slower speed than single speed grinders can otherwise it is very easy to grind down the fibreglass - word of caution wear full overalls and dust mask/glasses. You are then ready to let the fitters do their thing, again it is easier if you remove the windows completely - it also lets you reseal them again afterwards! To make the task possible, the main saloon headlining should be done in four sections, with a piece of wood used to cover the joins (fore and aft). I made the task much simpler by taking the old headlining out carefully and using that as a template for the cuts Apart from the minor problem of the car glue being so strong that it softened the bond between the felt and the carpet itself, this job went very well. The cost of the carpet was less than the glue and about the same as that charged for the fitting. I also purchased new screws for the windows of the next size up to make certain that I had a good fixing - this entailed some small amount of drilling, and a lot of screw cutting as I could not get the right length at the time. The end result is excellent and at a major saving over that quoted by headlining specialists. It is a better insulator, looks better, and should last for a very long time</span>

 

[VicS]

This is easier to read IMHO

I have said this in earlier threads and if you have already read it then I apologise but:
My boat suffered from the same problem (droopy headlining). I investigated this at length. The same material that was used originally is still available, but the foam is now fire retardent and is not expected to last more than 10 years. Many lining specialists advocate replacing the lining in squares (approx. 2' square) which are individually secured to the ceiling. The main advantage is that if you need to resecure anything on the deck above (e.g. winches, genoa track etc) then it is easy. The main disadvantage with this method is that it lowers the ceiling, and it is already slightly too low for me (6'2"). I was unwilling to use the vinyl/foam product because of the cost/expected replacement period.

I then thought about using carpet. The foam carpet would probably suffer from the same problem as the existing headlining, however, there is a new (relatively) carpet which is felt backed. I thought this might be suitable and it is also pretty cheap for a lightweight carpet.

I then looked at glue. A specialist warned me that most glues used by the lining companies are fine in this climate, but would start to melt if the boat was taken further south. They recommended that the best glue would be that used in the car trade.

I then managed to twist the arm of my friendly carpet fitter and his mate to agree to do it.

I decided to remove the old lining and the residual glue myself - this is a very messy job, best done with the inside of the boat totally cleared of everything else. I really recommend the dyson for this task! I then (with a lot of help from my son!!) removed the old glue back to clean fibreglass. You can get a flap wheel designed for this from the headlining people, but I used a brass cup wire brush mounted in a small angle grinder - but it must be brass, and the grinder should be running at a slower speed than single speed grinders can otherwise it is very easy to grind down the fibreglass - word of caution wear full overalls and dust mask/glasses.

You are then ready to let the fitters do their thing, again it is easier if you remove the windows completely - it also lets you reseal them again afterwards!

To make the task possible, the main saloon headlining should be done in four sections, with a piece of wood used to cover the joins (fore and aft). I made the task much simpler by taking the old headlining out carefully and using that as a template for the cuts Apart from the minor problem of the car glue being so strong that it softened the bond between the felt and the carpet itself, this job went very well.

The cost of the carpet was less than the glue and about the same as that charged for the fitting. I also purchased new screws for the windows of the next size up to make certain that I had a good fixing - this entailed some small amount of drilling, and a lot of screw cutting as I could not get the right length at the time.

The end result is excellent and at a major saving over that quoted by headlining specialists. It is a better insulator, looks better, and should last for a very long time

Sorry but i just could not read one long prargraph covering all aspects and in such an awful colour

 

[Talbot]

If you get your jollies by re-writing my material, I congratulate you,

 

[VicS]

Not rewritten at all just copied, pasted and broken into paragraphs.

I apologise again but it is intended as advice on making something more readable.

 

[Sea Devil]

Mark that looks lovely - well done!

I have now got all the old stuff off the saloon roof and start glue removal tomorrow - then sticking the new 'felt' type lining up. Done the heads so far - when/if I finish the saloon - vast area - there will still be 2 cabins to do!!!

Is it actually possible to ever finish this job which makes stripping old anti-fouling look like a holiday??????

Michael

 

[Talbot]

That is why I employed a carpet fitter and his mate for the job of sticking the carpet up!

BTW I did the whole of my boat, and bet a cat has more headlining! It is a really filthy job, and we were still finding residue of the rubbish from the old foam, and glue in hidey holes a year later.