Very much down to personal preference IMHO and I prefer the appearance and wipe clean properties of a smooth vinyl surface. The foam backing of foam backed vinyl has a max life of around 20 yrs but carpet should last longer.
There is a nice polypropylene pile carpet sold specially for the job but its even more expensive than the vinyl.
If you opt for vinyl again or fancy splashing out on the PP carpet contact Hawke House in Gosport for materials, adhesives and advice.
Great point re the adhesiv, we used carpet spray adhesive on a patch of loose lining, it failed reliably at 30 degrees c !!
You could time it as the temp came up.
Joe
you could also use one of the cheap fine cord carpets,hardwearing,easyish to clean ,must say i used a normal contact adhesive,some sprayon and some brush on with no problem, i guess it depends on how insulated your decks are. if you use the brush on type glue and assuming its like evostick thin it down a bit with celluose thinners,it spreads alot easier and doesn,t make alot of difference regards adhesion.
one other tip glob the glue on with a brush then use a toothed spreader to level/even it out and a bit of 6mm ply about 6"x3"
long edge rounded is good to use to smooth the carpet up.one other advantage of the thin foam back carpet is if you get it a bit wrong you can pull it down reglue and go again..
i've also done my lockers etc with it,it stops condensation etc
[ QUOTE ]
The solvent fumes from contact adhesive when working below can be very toxic.
[/ QUOTE ] I'll second that. No question about 'can' be quite toxic, they are very dangerous. Long term effects from organ damage as well as short term effects.
The masks are known as "Organic Vapour" masks. Absolutely vital IMO and very effective but they are not a substitute for good ventillation as there is an upper limit to the vapour concentration which they will handle.
Having said that i notice that the tube of Evostik Timebond that I bought yesterday is now in a heptane based solvent rather than toluene based. Not quite as hazardous, at least the Occupational Expsure Limit is higher.
Another point, these solvents are highly flammable so no sources of ignition while using them.
ah yes valid point about the ventilation,meant to mention it then got sidetracked,when gluing down below i had all the hatches etc open and a fan extracting from the forehatch as well,still can make you a bit muzzy tho
You do not say if your current lining is over templates or direct on the coach roof?
If you have not had her long- have you finished checking all your through deck fittings?
You may want to complete that first before putting headlining directly onto the coach roof.
Are you re-wiring, again, consider doing this at the same time.
I decided to make and cover templates For the coach roof so I could gain easy access to through deck fittings and electrical cables as and when required. (you are welcome to pm me for some more info about how I did this)
For the sides (After removing old carpet tiles) I glued closed cell foam straight on to surface (from Hawk House in Fareham) it lasts longer than normal foam and it provides better insulation or cooling than bog standard foam, however, it means you have to double up the glue as you will need to put your 'asthetic' cover over that.
I chose cream leatherette vinyl for it's looks and ease to keep clean.
Below the water line in the under seat lockers there is carpet which I decided to leave in place as it is in good condition and a non offensive colour.
hi
replaced headlining on a mac 26 with vinyl from Hawke House. made up panels over table, berth and forecabin roof with thin ply and with additional foam had a button finish/uphostered look. Other areas just stuck on the foam backed viynl with contact adhesive. Pluses: looked great, a clean wipeable surface and reduced condensation. Minuses: expensive material, hard to get a good edge and corners, get mildew in winter in the texture of material, adhesive in contact adhesive which is expensive and toxic ( very well covered in other posts), and after several years the foam degraded on the stuck on parts and needed re-adhering but as the foam had gone was difficult not to get "steps" in the foam where the old foam had gone.
Relined current boat (8m catalac) using needle cord carpet and water based carpet adhesive. Pluses: much easier to get a good finish at the edges cutting carpet or folding under, materials very cheap, better selection of colours available, no condensation, no mildew/mould, excellent finish on sides and under deck. Minus: hard to get a very good cover over fittings or reinforcing ribs in the roof, after 5 years adhesive starting to fail but no problems readhering carpet as there is no backing to degrade/crumble.
I have seen a boat headlining with tongue and groove soffit boarding in white plastic (stuff made for house exterior cladding ). As this is UV stable it should stay white. The boat I saw looked terrific and if doing another lining I would consider using carpet for the sides/underdeck and soffit cladding for the headlining.