Hayard ropes - type?

MM5AHO

MM5AHO

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What are the advantages and disadvantages of different type of ropes for halyards.

I'm considering polyester three strand replacement for the same that has done >15 years.
Currently 12mm, I think 10mm dia would be plenty (Rival 32, main is just under 10m luff.)

Would octoplait be any good?
Nylon too stretchy and not so UV stable?
Dynema good but expensive?
Polypropylene too weak, not so UV stable and floaty?
 
Confucius he say :-
Stretchy rope good for mooring, but no good as halyards.
Non-stretchy rope good for halyards, but not good for mooring.
 
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Main halyard tension is critical to the sail shape - as it determines how far back the maximum depth of the sail is. And going to windward in a strong wind this is really really important - too far back implies both slower and heeling more, which is no fun.

So for main halyard this is the first place I would really aim to use a decent non stretch solution - ie dyneema.
Search around for best prices though.
 
It's pretty much the more you pay the better it will be. A stretchy rope will mean lots of huffing and puffing to get the tension, and the luff tension will bounce around as the sail load changes. A high tenacity rope like Spectra or Dyneema will give the best results, but it depends if you want to spend that much. If not a low stretch polyester braid will do fine as well. Polyprop is lorry drivers' rope.
 
Just about right, though there are good polypropylene ropes, but 99% produced are carp.

Octoplait is a flexible, soft, stretchy rope for mooring and anchoring.
Nylon too stretchy and tends to stiffen with age.
Dyneema unbeatable, and could be worth the price if you're just replacing the halyards. Racing types wouldn't use anything else.
Polypropylene - 'nuff said.

Take a look at a few suppliers' websites and you should find they offer low-stretch or pre-stretched polyester braids which most cruisers use for halyards. They do need to be tweaked tight as the wind builds but if you're trimming your sails to the full, you'll already be doing that. Worth noting that for the same load, a smaller diameter Dyneema can be used, saves a little on the extra cost and weight aloft but could add more cost if you have clutches that have to be replaced to suit the smaller lines!

Rob.
 
Dyneema is undoubtedly the least stretchy and therefore the best for halyards, but on a cruising boat Polyester braid on braid is the usual choice. My own preference is Marlowbraid, which is polyester three strand within a polyester braid outer cover. It is stronger and has less stretch size for size than ordinary braid on braid. 10mm should be right for a 32 foot boat main halyard, my 45 foot boat uses 12mm.
 
10mm braid on braid unless you are very rich and then dyneema at over 3 times the price. If you have been happy with 3 strand then braid on braid will be an improvement, particularly from the handling point of view. Just bought a 37m reel end 10mm Liros for under £30 for a spare halyard.
 
Just thought, although I know better I still impart a twist to braid when coiling so as to get it to lie flat just as you would do with a three strand laid rope. Of course, this means it develops a twist when deployed from the coil. I think it comes from the satisfaction of spending a little time on the menial tasks with a neat result. Must practice getting the braid rope to adopt an even figure of eight twist instead!

Rob.
 
Interesting that OP has had polyester 3 strand for over 15 years. Means either it is adequate for the job, he is OK with retensioning after starting sailing or is not very discerning when it comes to performance. (don't mean to be offensive here) As has been said the non stretch dyneema is the best (or as used to be used wire rope with polyester tail.) Serious sailors (about performance) would not hesitate to use dyneema. However polyester 3 strand might be adequate for OP. Just a cost decision to be worked out.
I use dyneema on my jib halyard. Hank on jibs dropped often in lieu of spinnacker. So stretch is important to me. I had 6mm dyneema and found even that stretched too much and went to 8mm (on a 21ft boat.) worth the cost to change it. I still have a serviceable wire rope polyester tail main halyard but will go to dyneems when the wire gives out.
 
It has been said but I will add to it, Dyneema, Dynemma Dynema our Sun Lwgende41 had braided on purchase but we were always retensioning and even with a Cunningham downhaul it became a pain so one day I bit he bullet and bought dynemma on sale at Aladdin's Cave The sale price was my justication to SWMBO but it was still expensive, for a tall rig with main halyard led back to cockpit winch and clutches adding to it's length. The improvement was immediate as the head splice no longer got pulled into the masthead sheave and the sail, a large area fully battened Tri-radial cut in Hydranet, set as intended and stayed so when the wind climbed.

I stuck to braid on braid for the (roller0 genoa halyard which was at the mast not led back and was not set up as tight nor frequently adjusted either.
 
For the same size of boat (Centurion 32) I had wire with polyester tail as halyards. Recently I changed to Liros Regatta 2000 which is Dyneema within a closely plaited Polyester shell. I opted for 8mm because of the price difference from 10mm. The 8mm can probably support the weight of the boat itself so I figure that it is more than sufficient. Three turns on the mast winch and the line does not slip. Handling is OK but the line is rather stiff when compared to Polyester. Stretch is virtually non-existent. Twenty-eight metres cost me €109 IIRC. Well worth it IMHO.
 
rob2 said:
Just thought, although I know better I still impart a twist to braid when coiling so as to get it to lie flat
Click to expand...

One way to get a line to lie flat without imparting a twist is to coil it differently. Start as with a normal coil but when making the loops, instead of always taking the line over your hand the same way, alternate. So one time front-to-back, next time back-to-front.

You will end up with loops hanging down on either side of your hand, with no twist in them.
 
You have collectively convinced me.
I need to buy some three strand polyester for a marquee, and had thought to add the halyards onto the length required, but I new remember all the times I've re-tensioned the main halyard. Genoa is on a furler, so not much issue there, not raising and lowering that much. Spinnaker is less important in halyard tension.
Thanks
 
8 or 10mm Cruiser Dyneema for the main Halyard.
If you're getting on and losing shoulder strength then consider 2:1 8mm on the main halyard.

Jib halyard 10mm braid on braid is usually good enough especially if its on a roller spar.
8mm cruiser dyneema is ideal.

Braid on braid is fine for Spinny halyards, topping lift etc

Marlow Braid is fine but its a bugger to splice.
 
Can one not use a halyard knot? Not quite so neat as an eye, but it does have the advantage of readily allowing a short length of halyard to be removed periodically to move the wear points (assuming you started with a decent bit to spare, of course).
 
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