Hardwood treatment

[pcatterall]

Not for my boat but relevant I suppose.
I have various hardwood window and sliding door cills around the house which I have in the past primed and painted white.
After a year or two the paint has flaked and become detached ( it just scrapes off very easily) I think that repainting will get just as bad and would like to protect with a wood finish.
When we had hardwood window frames I used a sort of staining varnish which seemed to last well ( I guess that the stain helped with uv degradation?)
Cant find anything specific by searching so thought my chums on here could help with some advice.

 

[Little Dorrit]

I think if there is any natural oil in the wood the paint will have difficulty sticking which is probably why it is flaking off. I have the same problem with varnish on teak. You should clean thoroughly with white spirit before painting and may get better results with an oil based paint. The primer would benefit from being well diluted with white spirit.

Alternatively, Bonda marine wood seal is good or you could try Eposeal 300 which is an epoxy 2 part treatment. I have used both and they can be pained over. They soak into the wood giving good protection. I expect standard wood preservatives available from Tool Station etc may also be ok to use but have no experience of these other products. Neither is a cheap option which means you may want to have another go at painting

 

[doug748]

This stuff was developed for the very job:

Sikkens Cetol Novatech - Wood Finishes Direct

A lot of folk find it useful on boats as well.

.

 

[pcatterall]

I think if there is any natural oil in the wood the paint will have difficulty sticking which is probably why it is flaking off. I have the same problem with varnish on teak. You should clean thoroughly with white spirit before painting and may get better results with an oil based paint. The primer would benefit from being well diluted with white spirit.

Alternatively, Bonda marine wood seal is good or you could try Eposeal 300 which is an epoxy 2 part treatment. I have used both and they can be pained over. They soak into the wood giving good protection. I expect standard wood preservatives available from Tool Station etc may also be ok to use but have no experience of these other products. Neither is a cheap option which means you may want to have another go at painting

Thanks for that. I do varnish my 'bits of teak' , capping and hand rails just to add a bit of smartness ( I wouldn't do that to teak decks though!) I had no problem with adhesion, just UV degradation.

 

[upcountry2]

Sadolin is highly regarded in the trade, I have been using it for many years for applications such as you describe, as always preparation is key, available in all the usual tints.
long lasting if applied correctly and easy to overcoat with minimal prep next time round.
relatively expensive compared to many other products but wins hands down in my view....
40 years in paint trade......

 

[AllanG]

Sadolin is highly regarded in the trade, I have been using it for many years for applications such as you describe, as always preparation is key, available in all the usual tints.
long lasting if applied correctly and easy to overcoat with minimal prep next time round.
relatively expensive compared to many other products but wins hands down in my view....
40 years in paint trade......

+1 ^^^^^^