Hardwood shims for tiller?

[Jonny A]

My tiller has a little play where it fits into the rudder stock - not an enormous amount, but just enough to be 'not good enough' if you know what I mean.

I've removed the tiller to re-varnish it, and feel that I want to add some shims when I re-fit it. But I assume that if I use metal, under heavy load they will bite into the stock as they are much harder than it is. So should I use hardwood shims, and if so where can I get them?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

 

[Yellow Ballad]

Some sort of thin plastic shim might be a good comprise?

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

When I had a similar problem on a Vivacity the tiller ended up rubbing on the top of the coaming, beneath the mainsheet horse.
I planed off the old varnish of the part that fitted into the rudder head and glued a thin wedge of hardwood to replace what I had removed, plus more thickness. I then fettled the part of the tiller that goes into the rudder until I was satisfied with the fit. Easily done even with basic DIY 'skills'.
At that time I used resorcinol glue (Cascophen) but even epoxy might be just as good.

 

[lw395]

You could use shims of plastic sheet, tufnol, scraps of pcb material, fibreglass batten, ....
Maybe even a bit of an old wooden batten.
I added a couple of layers of epoxy resin and fibreglass tape. Easy to file a bit off for a perfect fit.

 

[LittleSister]

Depending how much play you've got, simply an extra few coats of varnish might take up the slack.

In the past I've had to sand away some of the varnish I'd just previously applied to the tiller, in order to get it back into the socket in the rudder stock.

 

[Jonny A]

Thanks for the replies. I think I'll add a few extra coats of varnish at the rudder end and then if necessary make up some shims from plastic.

 

[peteK]

It depends on the design of the fitting but I used a shim cut from a ice cream container.

 

[[70521]]

Are there any joiners or carpenters about that could give you an offcut?

Which reminds me I need to talk to my brother in law about some work I want doing next year.

 

[thinwater]

A small shim will either cut into the wood or deform; the problem is not metal vs. wood, and the solution is to spread the load farther. I've used metal side plates with good results, but they they need to be big enough, just as backing plates need some size.

 

[Jonny A]

Good point, thanks. If I end up needing shims I'll make sure to keep them as large as possible.

 

[Major_Clanger]

I had exactly the same issue on my Co26. I made up two shims of hard rubber that have worked well; they take away the play but also act as dampers (following sea, taking the ground, etc).

 

[Daydream believer]

Thanks for the replies. I think I'll add a few extra coats of varnish at the rudder end and then if necessary make up some shims from plastic.

If it is that thin then use a piece of aluminium coke tin. It will cut in to the wood no more than the metal bracket that you are fitting to if cut to the same profile & a tight fit. It only starts to cut in if allowed to slop about

 

[Jonny A]

I had exactly the same issue on my Co26. I made up two shims of hard rubber that have worked well; they take away the play but also act as dampers (following sea, taking the ground, etc).

Mine's a Co26 too! I like the idea of using rubber - I'll see if it's necessary after I've done the varnishing.

 

[Major_Clanger]

Mine's a Co26 too! I like the idea of using rubber - I'll see if it's necessary after I've done the varnishing.

I only have myself to blame as I made the new tiller! It turned out well though because it feels tight and direct again but does absorb slop hitting the rudder. You're welcome to try mine and see if it suits.

I've started a Co26 group although I'm the only member so far! It's just for fun and to swap ideas.