Hard Antifoul Between Tides.

Mark-1

Mark-1

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I've applied soft antifoul between tides without issue, the hull is never perfectly dry everywhere and it doesn't seem to matter much.

How about hard antifould? I would imagine that's much more sensitive to any damp areas?
 
Been doing it for several decades regards MoBos on a set of drying blocks. Its all still attached the following year.
It also gives the fouling something to hang onto ?
 
Its one of those impossible questions - depends on the temperature and the height of the tides.

It will help if you start at the waterline and work down, not at the bow or stern and work aft or forward.

Jonathan
 
Rappey said:
Quite often you have to start at the bottom and work up as the tide is coming back in ! You can end up wading doing the water line.
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You need a minimum of 2 coats, the first coat, water line down, the second coat finish at the waterline (which will enjoy an extra coat).

Technique needs to be flexible. Really needs more than one person, then you can tape up, dry hull with rag, when the old AF is still damp and start on the sunny side......

Jonathan
 
My preference is starting at the bottom so you don't end up getting it all over your back from the wet paint above when your crouching under the turn of the hull and your left with the easy bits standing up when your running out of energy.
Old soft antifoul does seem to take longer to dry than hard when power washed off.
Manufacturers state a minimum of 7 hrs before immersion but many thousands of use do it between tides and it seems ok. You make the most of the hand you are dealt .
 
Rappey said:
My preference is starting at the bottom so you don't end up getting it all over your back from the wet paint above when your crouching under the turn of the hull and your left with the easy bits standing up when your running out of energy.
Old soft antifoul does seem to take longer to dry than hard when power washed off.
Manufacturers state a minimum of 7 hrs before immersion but many thousands of use do it between tides and it seems ok. You make the most of the hand you are dealt .
Click to expand...
+1
Get the lying on your back awkward pig of a job bits over and done with first, while you still have the strength, keeness and and some interest left.
Wondering why you did not pay somebody to do this soon sets in, in theory should get easier as you go up the hull.
Have on occassion been finishing off the water line with the tide lapping around the bottom of the boat.
Depending on maturity the aches and pains do start to diminish after two or three days ?
 
Lidl has (had?) a car creeper that converts to a stool on wheels for about £35. I got one, and I reckon it earned its keep in one jet washing session the other day. Especially useful on a bilge keeler or cat, but still helpful when doing the backache-inducing bits on a single keeled boat.
 
For anyone finding this thread with Google, I did this today and it worked fine.

I'd got it into my head that Hard AF required much more careful prep than eroding AF. In fact, it seemed to me that the hard AF was 'stickier', and easy to use. Easier to stir too. A doddle to apply over one tide. Admittedly today was low humidity with a decent breeze but it went on a treat and was bone dry by the time the water came up.

Hilarious, I allowed myself 30cm of room for error on tide height. 2 hours before HW the actual tide was 27cm less than predicted - it had that sense of one of those lazy tides that seem to not quite make it in. 😁😬🤔😱 In the last hour it totally caught up and ended up exactly as predicted. So I wasn't neaped until Friday as I feared.

So IMHO it is totally possible to apply Hard AF over one tide, if anything easier than eroding.
 
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