Halyard slippage in clutch

[HenrikH]

I tension the mainsail halyard by a winch on the coachroof, the lock off by a clutch (Spinlock) the first round on the winch is a little higher than the clutch hole. This means that when I release the winch, the halyard slips an inch or two before the clutch camengages. Any options other than putting a spacer under the clutch?

 

[Channel Sailor]

8 suggest first service the clutch (grease the moving parts with silicon grease).

 

[[70521]]

How worn is the clam?

 

[[3889]]

If you press your finger onto the top of the cam as you release winch tension this will reduce, but not eliminate, line slippage. That's assuming there is space to insert a digit underneath the closed clutch lever. I can on mine. There will always be some slippage from the line core moving through the sheath.

 

[Ningaloo]

What size cam and what diameter rope?
I found 10mm dyneema halyard would not hold in the standard 10-14mm cam but no problems after swapping the out for 8-12mm cams. (From memory - not sure of the cam ranges.)

 

[HenrikH]

How worn is the clam?

The boat is 2017 model, no visble wear of the cam

If you press your finger onto the top of the cam as you release winch tension this will reduce, but not eliminate, line slippage. That's assuming there is space to insert a digit underneath the closed clutch lever. I can on mine. There will always be some slippage from the line core moving through the sheath.

It is most difficult when i tension for hard for beating into the wind. Then the cam does not go down by finger press. I will investigate a digit. Guess this means opening the Spinlock (it is a quadruple)?

 

[HenrikH]

What size cam and what diameter rope?
I found 10mm dyneema halyard would not hold in the standard 10-14mm cam but no problems after swapping the out for 8-12mm cams. (From memory - not sure of the cam ranges.)

I`ll check the halyard, 10 or 12mm. It only slips when i release the winch, holds fine after the cam comes down

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

Do not, on any account whack the clutch with the winch handle
But seriously, have you tried releasing the winch tension gradually , after closing the clutch, rather than just throwing it off?
Also, some designs of clutches will allow the halyard to lose a small amount of tension as the cam turns slightly, before it has engaged completely.
If you are the same HenrikH that I'm thinking of, you will remember how some people did not understand how the lever clutches on the masts of the 5.70s worked, and used to whack them with the winch handle, rather than just putting a little extra tension on and then allowing that tension to pull the cam into full engagement.

 

[LadyInBed]

You could put a roller bar across the rope at the correct height for the clutch, between the clutch and the winch.

 

[bluerm166]

Probably not helpful with your Spinlock but to vary rope capacity with an Easylock you can reverse the lever handle to use the alternative pivot hole or as i have done lay a thin strip ( e.g. 75 x18 x 1.5 ) of aluminium in the base of the clutch.With the front end turned down 90 deg. x 10 mm it is held captive ,simply raises the base.
As suggested by LadyinBed , If the angle of the line is wrong in the vertical plane - it can prevent the cam closing until the winch sheds the load.

 

[HenrikH]

You could put a roller bar across the rope at the correct height for the clutch, between the clutch and the winch.

Roller bar is an option, only require drilling and opening the cabin roof cover to get backing..

Probably not helpful with your Spinlock but to vary rope capacity with an Easylock you can reverse the lever handle to use the alternative pivot hole or as i have done lay a thin strip ( e.g. 75 x18 x 1.5 ) of aluminium in the base of the clutch.With the front end turned down 90 deg. x 10 mm it is held captive ,simply raises the base.
As suggested by LadyinBed , If the angle of the line is wrong in the vertical plane - it can prevent the cam closing until the winch sheds the load.

The angle i a litte wrong. But the idea of a strip on the base can work - I will check if I can fit.

 

[LadyInBed]

Roller bar is an option, only require drilling and opening the cabin roof cover to get backing..

Not necessarily, you could put a stainless tongue under the clutch to mount the roller bar on, or would you have to get under the headlining to remove the clutch?

 

[HenrikH]

Not necessarily, you could put a stainless tongue under the clutch to mount the roller bar on, or would you have to get under the headlining to remove the clutch?

Thanks, but the lining would have to come off. The clutch has a guide ring front and back, only it is sized for lines up to 14mm. The halyard is 10mm

 

[ithet]

Spinlock clutches pull the line in slightly as the lever is shut through the last 30 degrees or so. You should try winching with the clutch open or part open. Only shut the clutch after fully winching the halyard, it should then pull in a little more.

 

[LadyInBed]

Thanks, but the lining would have to come off.

You can't make omelettes without breaking eggs!
Either the cleat angle has to change or the rope has to be aligned to the cleat.

 

[Mistroma]

I vaguely remember this being addressed by cleaning and lubricating initially. Stage 2 was to slip another sheath over the existing line. I'm not certain how that was achieved but assume a bit was removed from another line and slipped over the existing one. Either fixed with something sticky (??) or stitched. No idea if it worked but it makes sense that the resulting thicker line might improve the grip.

No idea if it worked but cheap to try if you have a bit of spare line of suitable diameter. This assumes that the cam itself isn't too far gone.

 

[LadyInBed]

This assumes that the cam itself isn't too far gone.

Maybe a file to sharpen up the cam teeth and a shim along the inside of the cleat bed along the line of the rope.

 

[Norman_E]

Thanks, but the lining would have to come off. The clutch has a guide ring front and back, only it is sized for lines up to 14mm. The halyard is 10mm

There lies part of the problem, all clutches grip best, and with the least slip, when the rope is at or close to the maximum diameterthat will fit. Can you fit a smaller clutch? I found that the Lewmar type that do not use a cam, but a series of "dominoes" grip better and are kinder to the rope. Like this: Lewmar - DC1 Rope Clutches

 

[HenrikH]

There lies part of the problem, all clutches grip best, and with the least slip, when the rope is at or close to the maximum diameterthat will fit. Can you fit a smaller clutch? I found that the Lewmar type that do not use a cam, but a series of "dominoes" grip better and are kinder to the rope. Like this: Lewmar - DC1 Rope Clutches

Smaller clutch or same clutch with smaller cam is an option. But the line have to deflect downwards between the forward and aft guides. At this stage I hope to figure out a support under the line where the cam engages from the top. Only a theory so far…

 

[wklein]

Any options other than putting a spacer under the clutch?

The problem isn't the winch, it is supposed to be higher to prevent riding turns, the line should 'kiss' the wedge at bottom of drum if installed correctly. The easiest answer would be to leave it on the winch until you need if for something else.